Master Cylinder - Brake light problem
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2001
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Master Cylinder - Brake light problem
My brake pedal at rest is about 1" lower than the clutch pedal. I keep adjusting the brake light switch because the play seems to keep causing the limit switch to move, thus brake lights stay on (switch not loose or worn).
Could it be that one or both of the return springs in the master cylinder are busted or shot, so that the push rod is not returning all the way? The brakes seem to work ok, though some heavy pushing is required, and the pedal goes down about half way (despite new shoes).
Anyone had this problem?
Could it be that one or both of the return springs in the master cylinder are busted or shot, so that the push rod is not returning all the way? The brakes seem to work ok, though some heavy pushing is required, and the pedal goes down about half way (despite new shoes).
Anyone had this problem?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 602
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From: Huntersville
Master Cylinder - Brake light problem
On my 71 the clutch pedal has a rubber bushing for the pedal to rest on, up under the dash. It has a habit of slipping out which allows the clutch pedal to extend out about 1 1/2" past the brake. That might be all it is. Hope this helps.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,613
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From: Gainesville, FL
Master Cylinder - Brake light problem
The difference between pedal height is acceptable, but the fact your brake light is on tells me there's a problem. A slack pedal can be caused by a couple things. 1. Your rear brakes are not adjusting as they wear, ergo, jack the back of your truck up and spin the rear tires. If you can feel resistance between the brake shoes and drum, you're good to go. Check both sides. If there is little to no contact, pull the drums, clean the adjusters, relpace the drums and readjust the shoes until there are tight. Bleed your rear brakes just to be sure. I'll bet your brake problems are cured. 2. Is there excessive resistance in your vacuum assist brake booster? You can inspect the booster without ever spilling a drop of brake fluid. Remove two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster and pull the master cylinder out of the way. There is an adjustable rod behind the cylinder with a metal cylinder attached to it. It should be lubricated, if not, lube it. The rod can be lenghtened and take up the play, assuming the rest of the brake system is functioning correctly.
Good Luck, Have Fun,
Kingfisher
Good Luck, Have Fun,
Kingfisher
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Master Cylinder - Brake light problem
Thanks for the suggestions.
Unfortunately, I'm still at a loss.
- The bushing on the clutch is fine.
- Rear brakes are adjusted - I put in new shoes, turned the drums, bled and adjusted so there is a slight drag.
- I have no booster - just plain old master cylinder.
Should I start pulling apart the master cylinder looking for worn or busted springs?
Unfortunately, I'm still at a loss.
- The bushing on the clutch is fine.
- Rear brakes are adjusted - I put in new shoes, turned the drums, bled and adjusted so there is a slight drag.
- I have no booster - just plain old master cylinder.
Should I start pulling apart the master cylinder looking for worn or busted springs?
