rebuild 361
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 453
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From: australia
rebuild
i will get the barrel and block test be four i do any think i have two of this motors one has thin barrels at stock bore 3.78,MD and the one i think is the one to use has thick barrels at a stock bore 3.78 HD to very diffent block but same bore s rember these are truck motor s and the drill bit test is a good 1st step to do , two diffent drills size on each barrel test 
ps thank,s 4 the help
ps thank,s 4 the help
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 453
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From: australia
rebuild 361
im still waiting for my block to come back from the shop he is testing it next week i think and then i will pick what way to go out to if i can get 4.05 i will go with that bore like you guy think 4.05 sound nices i pick up a 4barrel intake manifold from a mate for free (wow they weight hepps )casting number are -D5TE-9425-TA is a match to c6me-a block ?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 453
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From: australia
rebuild 361
Hi all just letting you all no i got the sonic mapping dun 
its a 428 block
lots of bore left , Rusty im looking at the piston you said to get , thanks will keep you all updated ok step by stepthanks you all your help on this guys
its a 428 blocklots of bore left , Rusty im looking at the piston you said to get , thanks will keep you all updated ok step by stepthanks you all your help on this guys
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: australia
rebuild 361
Hi i was think of a stock 361 uping the compess a bit cleaning up the heads ihave a 4bl manifold , any idea ? rusty i have the rebuilder looking for silvolite
pistons your told me about 3144d,3142d i found them on the net couldn,t
find 3176d,1136 thanks again guys let me no if you guys ever come over to australia ok im near canberra small farm i breed mini gallaways cows , and the mustang 2054 skidsteer .The truck pass thr rego again this year with out touching or spending any cash on it The motor rebuilder is getting married
will be gone for three weeks he only build raceing engine so im very lucky to get him to build it for me. He gets raceing motor from all over australia to build he,s call pro_engines , i have to go and dig a hole for a dead cow now ill check in later
pistons your told me about 3144d,3142d i found them on the net couldn,t
find 3176d,1136 thanks again guys let me no if you guys ever come over to australia ok im near canberra small farm i breed mini gallaways cows , and the mustang 2054 skidsteer .The truck pass thr rego again this year
with out touching or spending any cash on it The motor rebuilder is getting marriedwill be gone for three weeks he only build raceing engine so im very lucky to get him to build it for me. He gets raceing motor from all over australia to build he,s call pro_engines , i have to go and dig a hole for a dead cow now ill check in later
Last edited by f700; Apr 26, 2006 at 09:27 PM. Reason: adding more
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
If it's at 4.050" bore diameter now, just use replacement 360 pistons. You'll get a nice boost in compression, but it will still be far lower than the FE's since the FT combustion chambers are bigger.
Try a Silvolite 1131.
Try a Silvolite 1131.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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Likes: 4
From: Iowa
So, .213" was the minimum wall thickness with 3.875" cylinder bores? Let me do some math here:
4.050" - 3.875" = .175" difference.
.175" / 2 = .0875" off the cylinder wall on each side to get to 4.050"
So, .213" - .0875" = .1255" minimum cylinder wall thickness after boring to 4.050".
You do not have 428 cylinder wall cores, or even standard 390 wall cores. Looks like the 330 casting, or at least yours, uses smaller cylinder wall cores.
I think it's best to leave at least .150" wall thickness after boring, so I think you're kind of stuck.
I think your best bet would be to go find a mid 1970's 360 truck block (like F100 through F250). That would swap right in and give you the bore size you're looking for. Look for one with the mirror image "105" where the "352" would be on a normal FE block.
4.050" - 3.875" = .175" difference.
.175" / 2 = .0875" off the cylinder wall on each side to get to 4.050"
So, .213" - .0875" = .1255" minimum cylinder wall thickness after boring to 4.050".
You do not have 428 cylinder wall cores, or even standard 390 wall cores. Looks like the 330 casting, or at least yours, uses smaller cylinder wall cores.
I think it's best to leave at least .150" wall thickness after boring, so I think you're kind of stuck.
I think your best bet would be to go find a mid 1970's 360 truck block (like F100 through F250). That would swap right in and give you the bore size you're looking for. Look for one with the mirror image "105" where the "352" would be on a normal FE block.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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From: australia
rebuild 361
Rusty don,t hold me to that that size , it was 200 and sumthink i was on the phone it was very nosie his end he sending me a print out of the mapping
i ll let you no when i get it ok
i ll let you no when i get it ok
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
So .310" was the minimum?
In that case:
4.050" - 3.875" = .175" difference.
.175" / 2 = .0875" off the cylinder wall on each side to get to 4.050"
So, .310" - .0875" = .2225" minimum cylinder wall thickness after boring to 4.050".
Now, it's looking like that block would be plenty safe to bore to 4.050".
Just out of curiosity:
4.130" - 3.875" = .255" difference.
.255" / 2 = .1275" off the cylinder wall on each side to get to 4.050"
So, .310" - .1275" = .1825" minimum cylinder wall thickness after boring to 4.130".
I think it would even be safe at 4.130". Of course, there's no pistons for that and a 3.5" stroke crank.
Were those the results for one cylinder, or did you get all eight tested?
In that case:
4.050" - 3.875" = .175" difference.
.175" / 2 = .0875" off the cylinder wall on each side to get to 4.050"
So, .310" - .0875" = .2225" minimum cylinder wall thickness after boring to 4.050".
Now, it's looking like that block would be plenty safe to bore to 4.050".
Just out of curiosity:
4.130" - 3.875" = .255" difference.
.255" / 2 = .1275" off the cylinder wall on each side to get to 4.050"
So, .310" - .1275" = .1825" minimum cylinder wall thickness after boring to 4.130".
I think it would even be safe at 4.130". Of course, there's no pistons for that and a 3.5" stroke crank.
Were those the results for one cylinder, or did you get all eight tested?