Fellow Fordsters,

I've recently been left stranded on the freeway by my trusty (?) 1985 F-150, 302 EFI, requiring a tow to my home. Upon checking engine codes -- and it seems as though ALL decided to make an appearance -- I am left with error codes 14 and 18. I've replaced the TFI parts and ALL of the sensors, including the O2 sensor. The only codes still repeating are the ones mentioned above. I have not replaced the ECA, nor the wiring thereto. Obviously, I am missing something! The voltage to the TIF connector, at pin 1, is only 4.2 volts. My Chilton's manual says it should be 12 volts or at least 90% of the battery voltage.

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Coresair

 

pip affects the hall sensor for your ignition. it's pin #56 on the pcm. and pin #6 on the icm. See if you have power going through that wire. code 18 is your spark output. you need pip processed before the pcm can send the spark output. secondly, look under your dist. cap, and see if the mag. rotor vane is spinning while cranking the engine.

 

Thanks, Havi, I'll do the checks you have suggested.

In my earlier post I forgot to mention that the engine does start and idle, albeit rough, but will stall and die at any other engine speed. It would suggest the feedback to the computer is faulty or the computer itself is at fault. I've also replaced to ignition coil, to no avail.

cheers!

 

I would guess you want to isolate the problem as either the pcm or pip. poke the #6 wire at the icm (PIP) and do an AC current test to the neg. battery post. Current should be between 3.0 and 8.5 volts Ac as you crank the engine. if not, disconnect the wire assembly from the pcm. try again. if it's within the limits then, then the pcm is at fault. I should note that this is for the icm connected to the dist. not the remote mounted one. if the pip was within limits the first time, then it's either the icm or the SPOUT(code 18) sensor. poke the #5 wire from the icm and do the same AC check, with the same limits. if it's within the limits, then it's the icm. after all is said and done, buy a haynes manual, as they go into more depth than the chiltons.

 

...Welcome Coresair to Ford Truck Enthusiasts!

We are happy you have chosen the best source for Fords!

Enjoy FTE....and
JOIN CLUB FTE -SUPPORT THE FORUMS!
…..See you on the boards.

 

Sounds to me that you may have lost the ground at the NEG (-) Post of the battery going to the ECA (EEC, PCM). This is a small black wire coming out of the terminal with a connector a few inches away that looks similar to an in line fuse holder. This may be why you are getting a low voltage at Pin #1.

 

OK, I'll check the condition of the ground. Thanks!

 

the negative post wire will shut off your fuel pump.

 

Today, I spent the better part of the morning checking the wiring and found no obvious or hidden defects. I cleaned the ground terminals and ran a continuity test to all known points. I double checked the timing and the TIF components. The fuel pump seems to work well and I ha previously replaced the fuel filter, fearing water contamination. All seem to be in order. It only leaves for me to replace the ECA, which I have no way to test.

On my truck, the ECA is located under the dashboard, t5o the right of the steering column, behind the ashtray. I found two bolts just below it, supporting a bracket to which the ECA is attached. Removing the two bolts, however, does not free up the ECA and I feel there is something more that it is attached to. Is there a clip or something up there? I really can't tell or see as it is not in an ideal spot and my eyesight is something less than ideal when crawling about in a semi-fetal position.

Thanks for your valuable comments.

 

I had a similar problem that was intermitant this past fall. It would only do it during the first warm-up of the day. The truck would just die while I was running down the road. I'd pull over, wait a couple of minutes, and then it would restart and run the rest of the day. Mechanic had a hell of a time figuring it out.

It turns out that is was a flaky pick-up coil / worn distributor. Codes that were set each time were PIP and Spout related. The PCM was getting an erratic signal and therefore would get confused. A Ford TSB indicated that this can also be caused by a worn or defective distributor shaft bearing. Very difficult to diagnose except with an oscilliscope (sp). The worn bearing contributes to the erratic signal to the PCM.

In short, replaced the distributor and the problem was fixed.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Concerned about the possibility of a distributor fault, I have replaced it with one from a running engine. The problem I'm experiencing persists, which is: the engine starts and idles very well ... that is, for its age and condition, nearing 180K miles -- it will stall at any throttle opening above idle. As such, I am unale to perform the KOER tests. I'm restricted to the KOEO tests only. A variety of fault codes have been reported and I have replaced/tested the affected sensors, only to have new ones emerge. The most recent codes reported are 22 and 31. Since I have already replaced the MAP sensor and checked the engine vacuum, leaves but the EGR valve. Each time I replace or test something, I attempt to test the results, before going on to the next code. Consistently, as I try to rev the engine above idle, I can hear the electro/vacuum relays chattering like crazzy, just before the engine dies.

It is driving me crazy! As a last measure I am ready to replace the ECA, following which, if I am unable to overcome the problem, the truck will be donated to a charity and a search for a reliable vehicle will ensue. Paying my mechanic $110 for diagnostics would easily and quickly empty my piggy bank! Last year the truck did not pass smog and it cost me $800 to correct the "issues." The truck has not been driven more than 3K miles since.

Thanks for your helpful comments.

 

perhaps the engine and truck the donor dist. came from could borrow you the computer for a test too? the wiring harness on the back of the eca might be what's holding it in. I'll look under my dash in a few minutes. Mine acted up last night by starting up fine and then warm up a bit nthen lope and die. then every time I started it thereafter, it would die. There's 2 little bolt head screws holding the plastic cover on the throttle cable where it meets the intake. underneath is a screw that sets your idle. A couple turns clockwise and my truck has been running fine ever since. Maybe this will help to get your truck running enough to do a KOER check.

 

IT RUNS!!!!

Yesterday I picked up my truck from the muffler shop, which replaced the catalytic converters. Somehow, during normal engine operation, the front catalytic let go and clogged the rear catalytic (only 3K miles since new) effectively rendering the truck inoperable. I replaced the spark plugs - again - as the ones I had just put in, one week ago, were fouled on account of all of the tests I was running, with a clogged exhaust. How did I discover that the exhaust was blocked? Simple. I installed a vacuum gage to the vacuum gang port, on the upper intake manifold. The gage consistently read low vac, late ignition timing, at idle. The truck would stall at anything above idle. I loosened the exhaust pipe connections at the manifolds and pried them down to create a gap for the exhaust gasses to escape. I started the engine and I could tell operation was much improved, though still misfiring.

The truck runs fine with a new O2 sensor, plugs and wires. It may take me awhile to regain my lost confidence in its reliability. Fortunately, I tend to have a short memory!

Thanks to all who assisted me.

 

funny how that works.

 

Also HAS a remote possiblility, that you're chasing the tailpipe, meaning with ANY Computer related engine, it will have to be rebooted if you are replacing parts on it.

It takes 30 min to totally take the battery cable disconnected, wait 30 min, then try it again to get those ghosts from cominhg back. afterwards a good 10 milr runnuning slowly listening caerfulyy fro thr shift point,, thrn runi it normally