carburetor Problems!!!!!!!

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Jan 23, 2006 | 11:52 AM

gearhead351

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carburetor Problems!!!!!!!

I have a 1984 Ford F250 with a 351 Windsor. The carburetor is a 2 bbl and its made by motocraft. After I get the truck started and its well warmed up the electric choke doesnt open up, only when you push on the gas. The other problem is when its cold and you just take off slowly it misses but when I opened the choke plate it didnt miss at all. How do I fix this? Do I need a new Carb? Thanks

Jan 23, 2006 | 02:09 PM

312

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there may be no fire going to the choke.check the wire with a test light.

Jan 23, 2006 | 02:37 PM

jpjahn

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Yeah, I would say your either not getting any current to the choke. Or the actual choke is broken on the inside.. My truck choke was broken, and didn't open up on its own.I tried to fix it, but it never really worked right.. I put a Holley 4160 on mine as a replacement carb.

Jan 24, 2006 | 11:46 PM

ajbutowicz

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wont idle when hot

We'll i've got a problem with my truck. It is a 1981 f150, 351 modified with a motorcraft 2150. It will warm up with the choke on just fine, but it smokes. When it warms up, it doesn't smoke, but just recently it wont idle, it will sit/drive at about 2000RPMS but anything remotely idle speed it will just drop until it cuts off. Any ideas for what it could be? I'm hoping itll be a cheap fix. Thanks guys.

Jan 25, 2006 | 10:42 AM

f100/1982

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gearhead351

Make sure you don't have any linkage sticking. My Edelbrock had a piece of linkage that stuck for some reason which wouldn't allow the choke to open.

Feb 10, 2006 | 01:52 PM

Pastorjoel

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Check and see if the choke heater wire comes off the stator on the alternator. If it does and the wire is not broken and if there is no significant voltage, then the stator output is not there. You must replace the alternator. I did this on my 86 and it fixed it. If you buy a rebuilt alternator make sure you have them check the stator output before you buy it. Good luck. P.S. If you are using a test lite (preferred) to check it, it "must" Lite up strongly - not a weak orange lite.

Feb 11, 2006 | 08:39 AM

85lebaront2

Old School Hot Rodder

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From: Exmore, VA

One little item, the stator wire actually only has 7 volts on it. On the smoking/rough running cold, check the choke pull-off. On early carburetors (up till 1970) the pull-off was a piston, starting in 1970 the pull-off was changed to a diaphram in the air horn. Somewhere around 1974 it was changed again to an externally mounted unit pulling directly on the choke linkage. For the external ones, you can either apply a vacuum to the nipple on the diaphram or, with the hose off, push in the diaphram plunger and see if it will hold vacuum. If it either doesn't pull in or leaks, replace it. If it works, start the engine and see if there is any vacuum on the carb fitting. Some of these had a restrictor that would get plugged easily. Check and make sure your fast idle linkage isn't gummed up and causing the idle to stay elevated after the choke should release. On later (74 up) the choke shaft has a teflon sleeve around it, if it becomes "bunched up" it will bind. The Ford/Autolite/Motorcraft 2100/2150 carbs are pretty simple and usually very reliable units. Good luck with it.