How to replace the ECT sensor
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How to replace the ECT sensor
Replaced on a 1988 F150 4x4 302 cid
First of all, the ECT sensor for me was somewhat of an enigma, the Chiltons book for the truck stated how to replace the sensor, but gave two places as to where the sensor could be.
When coding my engine becuase the 'check engine' light was coming on all the time untill the engine warmed up, it went away and ran 'ok'.
I found that the fuel economy was getting worse, this device controls a lot of the systems fuel when starting cold and idle and running in general.
It controls air/fuel mixture, idle speed, spark advance, EGR and purge canister control, when cold the ECT signals the PCM to provide enrichment to the air/fuel ratio for good cold drive away, as the engine warms up the voltage drops.
The ECT sensor runs a two (2) wire lead, red and black, and has a lock device on one side, so you will need a standard screw driver.
I found this information from here at the web site, the sending unit has one (1) wire and that sends the temp to the gauge in the cab.
when coding my engine I had a error reading 51, the ECT sensor out of range, which lead me to replace it.
For this replacement, the sensor is behind the thermastat in the block and underneath the intake (planum), I removed the air intake and the IAC wire.
For some reason Ford has made this sensor with oddball size socket, 25mm.
The 15/16 is to small and the 1" is slightly to big.
I spent 2 days trying to find a 25mm and no luck, so the guys at napa found a 6 sided 1" deep well socket 1/2 drive, since wrenches won't fit in the area.
I wrapped the sensor in black electrical tape a couple of times and that seem to tighten up the looseness in the socket, did the same for the one still in the block. The sensor is plastic so be careful when removing, there is water in that area so you will have to be quick on replacing. I wrapped the new one with pipe tape on the threads. Be careful not to strip the new one in the fitting when replacing and tighten untill the sensor feels snug, remember that you have to tighten and have that lock snap back in where, if need be, you can unlock it again. I cleared the codes and did a check again and no code.
Waited till the morning and the truck started like it used to...
Hope this helps anyone...
First of all, the ECT sensor for me was somewhat of an enigma, the Chiltons book for the truck stated how to replace the sensor, but gave two places as to where the sensor could be.
When coding my engine becuase the 'check engine' light was coming on all the time untill the engine warmed up, it went away and ran 'ok'.
I found that the fuel economy was getting worse, this device controls a lot of the systems fuel when starting cold and idle and running in general.
It controls air/fuel mixture, idle speed, spark advance, EGR and purge canister control, when cold the ECT signals the PCM to provide enrichment to the air/fuel ratio for good cold drive away, as the engine warms up the voltage drops.
The ECT sensor runs a two (2) wire lead, red and black, and has a lock device on one side, so you will need a standard screw driver.
I found this information from here at the web site, the sending unit has one (1) wire and that sends the temp to the gauge in the cab.
when coding my engine I had a error reading 51, the ECT sensor out of range, which lead me to replace it.
For this replacement, the sensor is behind the thermastat in the block and underneath the intake (planum), I removed the air intake and the IAC wire.
For some reason Ford has made this sensor with oddball size socket, 25mm.
The 15/16 is to small and the 1" is slightly to big.
I spent 2 days trying to find a 25mm and no luck, so the guys at napa found a 6 sided 1" deep well socket 1/2 drive, since wrenches won't fit in the area.
I wrapped the sensor in black electrical tape a couple of times and that seem to tighten up the looseness in the socket, did the same for the one still in the block. The sensor is plastic so be careful when removing, there is water in that area so you will have to be quick on replacing. I wrapped the new one with pipe tape on the threads. Be careful not to strip the new one in the fitting when replacing and tighten untill the sensor feels snug, remember that you have to tighten and have that lock snap back in where, if need be, you can unlock it again. I cleared the codes and did a check again and no code.
Waited till the morning and the truck started like it used to...
Hope this helps anyone...
