Synthetic Oil recomendation
#16
I run about the same short trips as you. Here in FL the mornings have been 40 a few times to average 50-60 deg. I let idle for about a minute and then use the tranny trick I learned here of putting it in 3rd instead of D to give me a little more speed without higher rpm. I run 1000 rpm to the first light. By now my tranny temp is halfway up and coolant temp has started up. I still run it slow the rest of the 2 miles to work so I at least get the coolant temp all the way up prior to shutdown. Seems to work on all but the coldest days.
I did first change at 2800 miles and used Mobile Delvac 1300 15w40 because the parts store did not have enough Rotella T. I emailed Blackstone my driving conditions. They did not recommend synthetics for my situation unless towing hard in hot weather. I think I am going to stick with Rotella T 15w40 or the Mobil Delvac 1300 and get some analyses after 5,000 miles, change the filter, sample again at 7,500 then decide if 10,000 is a good idea or not.
Seems there are quite a few people running Amsoil synthetic. I can't say one way or the other since I have never used it. IMHO if there are so many good oils that don't have the controversy surrounding them at the mention of their name then why would I even think about putting it in my $45k investment that I plan on driving for a quarter of a million miles?
I am saving the money I would have spent on synthetics and am planning on buying an oil bypass system. From what I have read this would go a lot further toward engine life than synthetic oil would.
Anyone agree or disagree?
I did first change at 2800 miles and used Mobile Delvac 1300 15w40 because the parts store did not have enough Rotella T. I emailed Blackstone my driving conditions. They did not recommend synthetics for my situation unless towing hard in hot weather. I think I am going to stick with Rotella T 15w40 or the Mobil Delvac 1300 and get some analyses after 5,000 miles, change the filter, sample again at 7,500 then decide if 10,000 is a good idea or not.
Seems there are quite a few people running Amsoil synthetic. I can't say one way or the other since I have never used it. IMHO if there are so many good oils that don't have the controversy surrounding them at the mention of their name then why would I even think about putting it in my $45k investment that I plan on driving for a quarter of a million miles?
I am saving the money I would have spent on synthetics and am planning on buying an oil bypass system. From what I have read this would go a lot further toward engine life than synthetic oil would.
Anyone agree or disagree?
Last edited by yamahonda41; 01-25-2006 at 10:37 PM.
#17
#18
#19
This is what my 2003 Ford Manual says:
"For normal or severe service, use Motorcraft oil or an equivalent
oil conforming to Ford Specification WSS-M2C171-D or API Service
categories CI-4,CI-4/SL or DHD-1. If CI-4 oil is not available, CH-4
is acceptable."
Does this mean it must be API certified? It really does not say, there
is ambiguity in Ford's statement too.
"For normal or severe service, use Motorcraft oil or an equivalent
oil conforming to Ford Specification WSS-M2C171-D or API Service
categories CI-4,CI-4/SL or DHD-1. If CI-4 oil is not available, CH-4
is acceptable."
Does this mean it must be API certified? It really does not say, there
is ambiguity in Ford's statement too.
#20
"lets not start the amsoil debate , because we all know amsoil does not meet ford spec."
Who's really starting the debate here? I have my own opinions about what motor oil I like to run, as does everyone else here. I can tell you this. I ordered my '05 PSD new and it ran great with the Motorcrat 15W-40 that came with it. After the first free oil change I used Rotella T 15W-40 and was very happy with it also. At about 7K miles, I switched to the Amsoil brand. I have had good success with their products in previous cars and chainsaws. Honestly, there have been no noticable MPG increases on my truck (as I have seen on our '99 Stratus), but it does start easier on cold mornings. I believe ANY synthetic oil will help in that department. I do believe, regardless of which brand you choose, the synthetic oil is a superior product to petroleum oil. Again, this is only my opinion. I don't think it's a coincidence that Europe has been doing the extended oil change thing for decades! Synthetic oils makes that possible, regardless of what name brand you use. They have been fighting much higher oil prices than we have for a long time and have been very successful in thier extended oil changes. In combination with an oil bypass filtration system, your truck's body should fall a part before the motor does. My second choice would probably be the Rotella Synthetic or the Chevron brand products. These are just based off friends' experiences who have more experience with diesel trucks than I do.
Anyway, do your own independent research and try to find some good word of mouth for what ever product you are thinking about. Being new fairly new to this site, I am still struggling to find my way around it since I am not on it much, but I have found a lot of valuable opinions and information about my truck. It is great to chat with other PSD owners who can be respectable in their opinions and not be so closed minded. I'd like to think we all have one thing in common, being that we want our trucks (which we all paid too much $ for) to last a long time. If I get any replies like some of the ones I've seen from some people in some of these oil forums, I'm going to start looking elsewhere for my info and opinions and stop wasting my time.
Who's really starting the debate here? I have my own opinions about what motor oil I like to run, as does everyone else here. I can tell you this. I ordered my '05 PSD new and it ran great with the Motorcrat 15W-40 that came with it. After the first free oil change I used Rotella T 15W-40 and was very happy with it also. At about 7K miles, I switched to the Amsoil brand. I have had good success with their products in previous cars and chainsaws. Honestly, there have been no noticable MPG increases on my truck (as I have seen on our '99 Stratus), but it does start easier on cold mornings. I believe ANY synthetic oil will help in that department. I do believe, regardless of which brand you choose, the synthetic oil is a superior product to petroleum oil. Again, this is only my opinion. I don't think it's a coincidence that Europe has been doing the extended oil change thing for decades! Synthetic oils makes that possible, regardless of what name brand you use. They have been fighting much higher oil prices than we have for a long time and have been very successful in thier extended oil changes. In combination with an oil bypass filtration system, your truck's body should fall a part before the motor does. My second choice would probably be the Rotella Synthetic or the Chevron brand products. These are just based off friends' experiences who have more experience with diesel trucks than I do.
Anyway, do your own independent research and try to find some good word of mouth for what ever product you are thinking about. Being new fairly new to this site, I am still struggling to find my way around it since I am not on it much, but I have found a lot of valuable opinions and information about my truck. It is great to chat with other PSD owners who can be respectable in their opinions and not be so closed minded. I'd like to think we all have one thing in common, being that we want our trucks (which we all paid too much $ for) to last a long time. If I get any replies like some of the ones I've seen from some people in some of these oil forums, I'm going to start looking elsewhere for my info and opinions and stop wasting my time.
Last edited by cwick; 01-25-2006 at 11:51 PM.
#21
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Great State of Texas
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Originally Posted by cwick
If I get any replies like some of the ones I've seen from some people in some of these oil forums, I'm going to start looking elsewhere for my info and opinions and stop wasting my time.
Opinions are typically formulated by personal beliefs, experience, teachings, research, trusted opinions of others, open dialog with others etc. The info is gathered and we assimilate our knowledge to form a new conviction.
The value of someones opinion is typically measured by their earned, or in some cases lost, credibility. As readers we have the option to accept all, part, or none of an individuals comments. Generally, it takes more than a handful of posts to establish more than a neutral level of credibility.
Your statement / declaration of the possibility that you may leave us at the very least implies that you feel you have already wasted your time here at FTE. I hope that we have not been to much of a burden.
It is our hope that when people visit FTE they walk away with a certain since of something gained. However, a site like this cannot be all things to every body.
Stay or go. Your choice. But, making idle, worthless threats about leaving (especially after only 9 posts) will cause no particular since of endearment or loss from those of us that have a considerable time investment here.
#22
#23
I can relate the passionate opinions of users of certain products, I suppose I am guilty of the same. I just wish some could be a little more professional with there opinions, but I supose we all get caught up in it once in a while. I don't intend to leave at all, just certain threads. I am finding there is a TON of great info in many threads on this site, realated to the mechanical and misc. other things regarding the 6.0 motor. I continue to look foward to input on these items, I think I'll just bite my lip and stay away from the oil threads (I get a little too riled up too) LOL. Good luck ya'll.
#24
Originally Posted by cwick
....Being new fairly new to this site, I am still struggling to find my way around it since I am not on it much, but I have found a lot of valuable opinions and information about my truck.......
Take Care
#25
Originally Posted by kw5413
Stay or go. Your choice. But, making idle, worthless threats about leaving (especially after only 9 posts) will cause no particular since of endearment or loss from those of us that have a considerable time investment here.
Rotella T 5W40 Synthetic, and I have had no problems as of yet. I also have not used other products and would not claim to be an expert on them. CWICK, my opinion is Rotella T 5W40, but use what ever you like. Rotella has work great for me, but lets face it. If the oil was a problem, most truck won't see it until about 300,000 miles anyway. Anyone on here see 300,000 miles on their 6.0?
#26
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Great State of Texas
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Originally Posted by Tierod
Not a great way of inviting a new prospective supporters, do ya think. I know I probably haven't been the best ambassador of this site, but even I would not tell someone "agree with me or get lost."
In addition, my statement was in response to cwick's declaration "...I'm going to start looking elsewhere for my info and opinions and stop wasting my time." After only 9 posts.
I have no problems with opinions. And like A..holes. Some are bigger and more grandiose than others. To each their own.
This site has, is, and will continue to survive just fine without me, you or anybody else. There is no need to make comments like that or to put words in people's mouths that did not exist.
No one holds a gun to any body's head to stay or leave.
In fact, cwick's response to my comments were commendable.
If you knew more about my history here would would know that I promote FTE as well as it's integrity.
#28
if you are worried about the oil and change intervals , just send your oil and get an oil analysis by one of the many labs out there! every body has an opinion on oils and price ! @@ so just check your oil analysis and you wont have to rely on internet opinions on what is best for your engine , the oil analysis will tell you.
#29
The bottom line is simple....
1) Fact... The 6.0L likes clean & fresh oil - any type that is approved.
2) Fact... Blackstone Labs has confirmed that the 6.0L shears all oils from a 40 weight to that of a 30 weight.
3) Fact... Ford states that oil and filter should be changed at 5,000 miles for severe and 7,500 miles for normal driving.
4) Fact... The newest oil rating for diesel motors is CI4+ and was formulated for EGR motors and reduced shearing... so only use CI4+ for optimum protection.
5) Fact... Mobil, Rotella, Chevron and a few other "reputable companies" state to change their oil at manufacture's recommended intervals... not more even though their oil probably can go longer. No deceptive marketing here!!!
6) Fact... going longer than recommended is not worth the risk since all oil shears and even if running a by-pass filter or synthetic oil, the oil still has sheared down... clean or not!!!
_____________________________
Now, with the above stated facts, I challange anyone to dispute the above since all documented facts.
The 6.0L motor thrives on fresh clean (proper viscosity oil) to lubricate and fire the injectors under high pressure and lube the bearings in the turbo... its the high pressure in the injectors and the turbo bearing lubrication that shears the oil down!!
Many have found that from experience that whether using dino or synthetic oil, a good change interval is 5,000 miles. It is also easy to remember all of the other services at 15,000 (fuel filters) and 30,000 (tranny service) as all are divisable by 5,000 miles.
I personally use Rotella-Syn since it is a quality name brand motor oil, CI4+ rated, available at Walmart and less expensive than other synthetic oils on the market.
Use what you want... I do not care. Companies that promote extended oil drains for their high-priced synthetics did not wear test them in a 6.0L diesel motor... maybe a gasser over the years... but even a 6.0L motor is different than a 7.3L motor!!!
If a company has to promote extended oil drain intervals to justify their high cost, then they are putting the user in a "bad spot" to have viscosity shearing issues. Why worry or spend money every couple of thousand miles for oil analysis... just change it out every 5,000 and know that you left some life in your oil when you changed it out, rather than you had minimal or no life when you did... but ether way... they all sheared down to that of a 30 weight which is not good... but leaving it in for 10,000 or more miles is even worse!!!!!
Good luck to all and lets discuss the facts and not about API ratings and Amsoil marketing... as I think I have proven that even if their high-priced oil was API certified... extended drain intervals is NOT in anybody's best interest regardless of the brand of oil used (mobil, Chevron, Rotella or Delvac).
Thanks,
Jeff
1) Fact... The 6.0L likes clean & fresh oil - any type that is approved.
2) Fact... Blackstone Labs has confirmed that the 6.0L shears all oils from a 40 weight to that of a 30 weight.
3) Fact... Ford states that oil and filter should be changed at 5,000 miles for severe and 7,500 miles for normal driving.
4) Fact... The newest oil rating for diesel motors is CI4+ and was formulated for EGR motors and reduced shearing... so only use CI4+ for optimum protection.
5) Fact... Mobil, Rotella, Chevron and a few other "reputable companies" state to change their oil at manufacture's recommended intervals... not more even though their oil probably can go longer. No deceptive marketing here!!!
6) Fact... going longer than recommended is not worth the risk since all oil shears and even if running a by-pass filter or synthetic oil, the oil still has sheared down... clean or not!!!
_____________________________
Now, with the above stated facts, I challange anyone to dispute the above since all documented facts.
The 6.0L motor thrives on fresh clean (proper viscosity oil) to lubricate and fire the injectors under high pressure and lube the bearings in the turbo... its the high pressure in the injectors and the turbo bearing lubrication that shears the oil down!!
Many have found that from experience that whether using dino or synthetic oil, a good change interval is 5,000 miles. It is also easy to remember all of the other services at 15,000 (fuel filters) and 30,000 (tranny service) as all are divisable by 5,000 miles.
I personally use Rotella-Syn since it is a quality name brand motor oil, CI4+ rated, available at Walmart and less expensive than other synthetic oils on the market.
Use what you want... I do not care. Companies that promote extended oil drains for their high-priced synthetics did not wear test them in a 6.0L diesel motor... maybe a gasser over the years... but even a 6.0L motor is different than a 7.3L motor!!!
If a company has to promote extended oil drain intervals to justify their high cost, then they are putting the user in a "bad spot" to have viscosity shearing issues. Why worry or spend money every couple of thousand miles for oil analysis... just change it out every 5,000 and know that you left some life in your oil when you changed it out, rather than you had minimal or no life when you did... but ether way... they all sheared down to that of a 30 weight which is not good... but leaving it in for 10,000 or more miles is even worse!!!!!
Good luck to all and lets discuss the facts and not about API ratings and Amsoil marketing... as I think I have proven that even if their high-priced oil was API certified... extended drain intervals is NOT in anybody's best interest regardless of the brand of oil used (mobil, Chevron, Rotella or Delvac).
Thanks,
Jeff
Last edited by Beachbumcook; 04-15-2006 at 01:36 PM.
#30