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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 10:07 AM
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1993 Inline Six, POOR Starting...

i have a 1993 F150 Xlt 4x4, 300 inline six 5spd.
i recently replaced the intake and exaust manifold gaskets, valve cover gasket, water pump, thermostat, and all vacuum lines.. in the process i got all my vacuum lines mixed up. my check engine light stays on constantly and my truck starts VERY VERY hard, expecially when cold. My injectors are spotless. If someone has a vacuum line diagram for dummies id really appreciate it. also anyone who nows what might be causing this hard starting problem "PLEASE" let me hear your suggestions i really need help guys.. thinks
 
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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also, after my truck warms up to normal operating temp. my engine light stays on constantly... i have also noticed a MAJOR loss in power...
 
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 05:57 PM
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I checked on the Autozone webpage for you, but couldn't find a diagram.

A chiltons manual will give you the diagram.

If you know specifically which vaccuum lines are likely to be mismatched, we can probably help you out.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 06:01 PM
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i dont even know where to start... somehow or another i lost much power tho.. i have switched a few, back and forth to see what happends... but i just cant seem to get them right.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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alright well, i'll try to help with the major ones...

the MAP sensor is on the passenger side firewall, close to where the heater core is. This needs a vacuum line running straight to the vacuum tree on the manifold.

The fuel pressure reg which is on the fuel rail, close to the number 1 intake runner, its simply a small metal barrel about 2" wide and 3" tall. This needs a vacuum line going straight to the vacuum tree. It was originally red (on my 95 at least)

Make sure your PCV system is hooked up. There is a thick hose on the underside of the upper intake going to the pcv, which is on the back of the valve cover close to the firewall. The breather should be a black plastic mushroom looking thing, which is on the valve cover close to the radiator. This needs a big line going to the air filter box, or simply vented to the air.

There are 3 vacuum solenoids mounted on the drivers side of the block. If i were you i would plug these. It may throw codes, but it should run smooth with them unplugged. Once you get it running, you need to hook those back up and route them.

Please ask more questions and give results. We're here to help.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 07:32 PM
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ok fellas, i got the vacuum lines to the right arears i belive!
now lol, when the truck is started the eng. light doesnt come on. if i start it it could idle all day and never come on. soon as i go about a 1/4 mile its on...... and like when i run the truck to town say, and shut it off and leave it for a bit.. its like its not gettin fuel or air or something..... it cranks cranks and cranks............. then it will finally start and sputter alot of course !! can anyone help PLEASE!!!!!!! i am desperate....
BTW... thanks to rhetor, for helpin me on the vacuum stuff!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 08:47 PM
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I applaud your guys' efforts, I can only add that buying a chiltons and/or haynes manual will help the next time. because we know, there will always be a next time. Good luck, and as long as you start getting them on the right way, the rest become easier by process of elimination. As far as the sputtering, I'd retorque the intake and exhaust manifold bolts. May or may not help, but sure doesn't hurt.
 

Last edited by havi; Feb 2, 2006 at 08:49 PM.
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 03:54 PM
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Once the engine is running and you shut it off for a short time (10min or so) will it start right up??? If so you might have the following----Do you have two tanks on the truck and does the fuel from one fill up (Transfer to) the other. If you do you might have the bad fuel pump check valve problem. This also lets the pressure in the fuel lines bleed down very rapidly when the engine is shut off. Upon restart , after sitting for some time,the engine will crank for a long time due to the lack of pressure in the fuel system. I would have to try and start a second time and it would start. There was a recall on this but it has expired now. The fix is to replace the pressure regulator and install inline check valves at the tank/tanks or replace the offending pump/s.

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Old Feb 4, 2006 | 05:47 AM
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ok, lol... when its warm and cold it starts hard PERIOD... once running it runs fine!
the truck has a single 12-15? gallon tank........ it acts as if its starving for air when it does fire... because it sits there and studders untill i hit the gas petal then its fine! i have no ideal guys! i really dont...... any suggestions GREATLY appriciated!!!!!!
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 09:37 PM
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More Info!!!

i also noticed that my brake fluid level is dropping... the truck never used a DROP of it before... now its disapearing rapidly... i heard rumors that it will go through your intake and burn ur motor up... is this true? if so how do i fix it?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 01:45 PM
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Could happen if the master cyl was leaking into the vacuum side of the power brake booster. Remove the master cyl and look for a leak at the piston seal, if leaking replace the master cyl.

stractor
 
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 03:15 PM
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ok, will that make your engine light come on? and wil it also cause power loss?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 01:03 AM
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I wouldn't think so, unless it caused a vacuum leak. Might make the engine smoke some when burning the brake fluid and a sensor some where might not like it. Try removing and plugging the brake booster vacuum line and see if the engine runs any better. BE CAREFUL IF YOU DRIVE IT !!!! YOU WILL HAVE NO POWER BRAKES and it will take a lot of peddle push power to stop.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 05:52 AM
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ok thanks bro
 
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