On my motorcraft 2150 do I turn the screw(s) countercockwise to richen the mixture?
Am I correct in assuming that bogging right after start up(rather than sputtering) is an effect of too lean a mixture? (My timing is adjusted so that it won't ping under load.)

Thanks!
Matt

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1978 F250 4x4 - 351M
Don't crush them, restore them!

 

A little history: the choke was staying on all the time, so i leaned it out, now stays off like it should. Now when starting it in the morning, it has very boggy acceleration and bogs/pops out the carb.

Also, it will not idle without stalling until it has run a few minutes in the morning.

Also, does the choke come into play even in the summer (75 - 100 degrees)?

I was thinking that richening the mixture would help the bogging and the stall problem when first idling. Maybe a little increase in idle speed? But it idles perfectly when warm!

Matt

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1978 F250 4x4 - 351M
Don't crush them, restore them!

 

Also, I have a bog when quickly pushing throttle to halfway regardless of being warmed up or not!

Well maybe this wasn't as quick a question as I had thought!
Thanks!

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1978 F250 4x4 - 351M
Don't crush them, restore them!

 

the bogging from mashing the gas hard and quick even when warm would probably be a worn accelerator pump, you said you leaned out your choke, try richining it up a bit


1985 F-150/351Ho/c6/4wd~94,000 miles
1979 F-150extcab4x4/460/c6/6inchlift w/60rear44frnt (250 axles and springs)
37 inch boggers

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 18-Aug-01 AT 04:34 PM (EST)[/font][p][font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 18-Aug-01 AT 04:32 PM (EST)[/font]

The accelerator pump gasket/etc is new. And the bog is just when trying to get normal acceleration when cold.

The bog in the previuos message is just when sitting still, and pushing the accelerator!

Second edit - just checked a spark plug, there looks to be deposits on the plug, indicating the likelihood of too rich a mixture right?

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1978 F250 4x4 - 351M
Don't crush them, restore them!

 

The choke definitely comes into play in the summer, at least here in North Alabama. My truck acts exactly as you describe if I don't have the choke set when I first fire it up.

 

Try setting your choke in the morning when it is cold...Set it to just be closed enough to start and `fast Idle`...
the choke should `come off` when the engine has warmed...
No for setting the idle screws....Get a Vacuum gage and adjust the mixture screws for the HIGHEST vacuum reading at HOT (engine)... er adjust the idle speed if necessary...

I have a More lenghtly adjustment procedure I think I can find it... send me an E-mail Off list here and I`ll send it to you !!


__JOHN__Õ¿ö
FTE Club #7
Member-
http://www.cruisin-north.com/
Santa Rosa, Calif.
72 F-250
ICQ#6030753
http://www.ford-trucks.net/users/jbhf250/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.html

 

I did find an Earlier `post` to another Member with a problem with tuning a 2150 carb >>>
1 . "Tuning"
Posted by jbhf250 on Dec-22-99 at 11:54 PM (EST)

First and formost!! You need a Good Vacuum Gage and Tach do do this properly.
You Write>>>
I have a 2150 2bbl carb on my '75 390 (or is it 360?, I have yet to do the stick-through-the-plug-hole-test). I have heard of many ways to tune the carb. My question is this: What would be the standard procedure for tuning a carb after rebuild, including setting the timing, idle speed (my valve cover sticker is long gone), etc. My most important question would be: where do you start the mixture screws?

I would start a 1 1/2-2 turns out each side for now.
REMEMBER WHAT YOU TURN THESE AS YOU GO SO THAT EACH SIDE WILL BE THE SAME!!

I understand that you would turn them in or out an equal number of turns, but what fraction of a turn do you go on each one before turning the other one the same number of turns; 1/16, 1/8, 1/4? I guess you watch for the fastest idle when turning the mixture screws, then back off the idle screw to set the idle.<<<

Yes in general. look for the Highest Vacuum reading AT the highest RPM. adjust the idle mixture screws several times to obtain this.
If the RPM increases Reduce it to close the throtle plate to stay on the Idle circuit.


>>>I have been looking for a while now and have not found a good through procedure. I guess I'm looking for an experienced opinion..<<<

The Vaccum gauge is the KEY to let you know that the mixture is Even on both sides. DON~T over compensate. When it is Close let the engine come up to Operating Temp!!
Check the Base Timing setting at the crank. 6,8,10 or whatever, with the vacuum line removed from the dist. Then reconnect it!!

Look for a vacuum reading in the 13-18 range at IDLE speed. When the engine is `Hot` Fine tune the idle jets. Close the idle jets Down 1/4-1/2 turn at a time OR until the vacuum just starts to drop!
If you see the Vacuum drop SLIGHTLY... STOP! Its getting lean... Do/check Both Sides.
Set the Idle speed for what you want 550-750??

Now having said that. When the engine is Dead Cold you may find that Opening UP the Idle jets 1/4 to 1/2 turn will Improve cold weather starts!
But It will idle on the rich side and Faster when HOT!!. I would not settle for any Idle Less than 12 inch of vacuumn. If the engine is in good shape. Double check for leaks. Gaskets OK!! etc....

Just for ME... I set the Idle Jets with the engine running at as Low a speed as Possible! to get them EVEN Edlebrock 4bl.. But thats My thing!

Without being there this may be greek.. but it works for me.. Iam sure there are as many `tricks` as there people doing there own tuning thing. You will `develope` a feel and pattern for what you get. But like I said at the start the Vacuum gauge is my `Bible` thing for setting Carbs.
Give it a try. Let me know if you run into something you need help with. With the holidays here this week I may now read things here as often as I have..



__JOHN__Õ¿ö
72 F-250
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< <<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Hope this helps Ya!!


__JOHN__Õ¿ö
FTE Club #7
Member-
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Santa Rosa, Calif.
72 F-250
ICQ#6030753
http://www.ford-trucks.net/users/jbhf250/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.html

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 20-Aug-01 AT 01:32&nbsp;PM (EST)[/font][p]I guess that I will buy/borrow a vaccuum gauge then!
I have no idea where to hook up the gauge though! (and how do you check 'both sides'?)

As well, can you restate whcih way I turn the screws to richen and/or lean out the mixture?!
Thanks jbh!

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1978 F250 4x4 - 351M
Don't crush them, restore them!

 

I went out and got a vaccuum gauge, now how do I use it and which way do I turn the screws to richen/lean?

Thanks!

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1978 F250 4x4 - 351M
Don't crush them, restore them!

 

Turn them Clockwise to LEAN
turn them Counter Cloclwise to Richen the mixture

__JOHN__Õ¿ö
FTE Club #7
Member-
http://www.cruisin-north.com/
Santa Rosa, Calif.
72 F-250
ICQ#6030753
http://www.ford-trucks.net/users/jbhf250/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.html