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When timing my engine I used the way of tdc of #1 and pointing the distributer. I have never used a timing light and honestly don't know how. I've read in a few articles about using timing degrees. How do I know where mine is set and if it's in the correct spot? My engine runs great with the adjustments I've made by listen and feel. Is there a better way? Thanks in advance....
Gotta get a timing light. They're cheap. Hook up black & red leads to the battery. Clamp the other wire to #1 spark plug wire. Pull the trigger and aim at the damper from the front passenger side below and behind the water pump. There should be marks on the damper, in degrees, (1 revolution is 180 degrees) and a pointer bolted to the timing cover that hangs over the damper. As the light flashes read the degrees at the pointer. The marks on the damper may be rusted and hard to see. Get chalk or some paint, find TDC on the damper, mark it, find 20 degrees BTDC, mark it. it spins CCW...i think. Factory timing is 6deg BTDC for FE's. You can probably go as high as 12-15. If it starts to ping, while driving, back off a degree or two.
That'll get you started. There's more to it than this, others, i'm sure will help here. Timing is everything...The first thing you do when tuning an old FE for sure.
The term "timing" is used in a couple different scenarios(Like you have now found). You time the engine when installing the distributor("dizzy" like we call it for short on here). You also "time" the engine after it's running, using a timing light as described above.
It's a simple procedure, but you need to know what you are doing to get it done properly. Follow byyrce's layout and you'll get started. Don't loosen the "dizzy", but hook up the light and rev the motor. Once you see the timing mark move and understand it's information you'll be on the road to hot rod'n!
Gotta get a timing light. They're cheap. Hook up black & red leads to the battery. Clamp the other wire to #1 spark plug wire. Pull the trigger and aim at the damper from the front passenger side below and behind the water pump. There should be marks on the damper, in degrees, (1 revolution is 180 degrees) and a pointer bolted to the timing cover that hangs over the damper. As the light flashes read the degrees at the pointer. The marks on the damper may be rusted and hard to see. Get chalk or some paint, find TDC on the damper, mark it, find 20 degrees BTDC, mark it. it spins CCW...i think. Factory timing is 6deg BTDC for FE's. You can probably go as high as 12-15. If it starts to ping, while driving, back off a degree or two.
That'll get you started. There's more to it than this, others, i'm sure will help here. Timing is everything...The first thing you do when tuning an old FE for sure.
b62
Actually 1 revolution is 360 degrees and always will be. With a 4 stroke you need 720 degrees to get all the cycles in. If the timing lite you get has a timing adjustment ****, make sure it is at zero and stays there or you readings will be off.
You're right Bear, ...don't know what I was thinking! My brain wasn't keeping up with my typing. The damper goes around twice for every revolution of the distributor.
carry on.
gw
Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
Actually 1 revolution is 360 degrees and always will be. With a 4 stroke you need 720 degrees to get all the cycles in. If the timing lite you get has a timing adjustment ****, make sure it is at zero and stays there or you readings will be off.
Thanks for the great info guys. I think I got the timing perfect now. Along with the suggestions for the carb I got the truck started up first try took two light revs and it had perfect idle even cold. I am absolutely thrilled right now. I know I'm an amateur so the help you guys have given me is perfect. Thanks again.
Question before timing, is TDC on the damper at the same time as TDC with the piston as your dealing with old dampers and the damper outside ring may have slipped with age. Then go to the dizzy and make sure the mechanical is clean and properly lubricated, vacuum diaphragm not ruptured and has a hose without cracks and vacuum leaks. Carb new or freshly rebuilt, plug wires and ignition in top condition? Add a vacuum gauge and tach in the cab then tune for the motor not basic numbers as they are starting points and no two motors are alike. 9 out of 10 times motors that were timed by ear are over advanced and the dyno has proved that in reduced numbers.
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Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jan 20, 2006 at 08:18 PM.
The TDC on the damper is the same as piston. Made sure of that. The vacuum is great on it and the mechanical on the distributor is good, vacuum line is new, carb is new edelbrock 600, new msd ignition box, accel super stock coil, accel super stock plug wires and new plugs. I've got the timing down using bryyces tips. I appreciate the tip though and can always use more. I went out there tonight and did the timing on it in addition to the carb tip I got on another post and the truck started right up and had perfect idle with no knocks except for a small exhaust leak I've got to take a look at. Other than that she is now running better than I could have imagined.
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