any idea of how much time it would take to swap out a set of heads on a 1982 Full size with a 351W and automatic. I plan to put the intake together prior to starting and will be putting a 4 barrel carb on instead of the holley 2300 2 barrel from my scout.
after doing a compression test a few months back there is indication that the vavle seats are leaking - BUT I scored a set of unused new heads for $100. so I am going to put those on and see how that helps with the massive oil consumption the truck is going through. about a quart per tankfull. most comes out in the tail pipe.

so any time ideas would be appreciated.

Ritch

 

Well, if the seats are that old and the engine is original and never rebuilt, part of the oil is going past the rings. I that is so, I would look at building a new engine and saving those parts for a fresh engine.

 

Exhaust bolt issues could be a hold-up. Depending on your tool situation I would estimate 3-4 hours to remove each head and 2-3 hours to put each head back on. If you're really organized, have a good work area and don't run into any snags it could go pretty good. They're heavy, you'll need a chain & bar & a helper to pull them off.

Good luck,
Biederboat

 

I just got through pulling and replacing the heads on my 87' and let me tell you, it aint easy or quck if you dont have help and a little kowledge beforehand. First and foremost buy some ziplock bags and use them to organize the bolts you take out. On my 351 the #6 cylinder sucked a valve seat causing me to only have 60 psi compression, but i didnt have any oil use like you describe. Sucked valve seats are a very common problem on the 351 and can be caused by any number of things like running the engine to lean, vacum leaks etc....... One thing, be very sure to look at the brackets on the front of your engine, if you forget how they go on you are in for a hell of a time figuring out what order to put them back on in. Take pictures and/or video, you wont regret it. and last but not least be sure to get the torque specs and torque them down starting in the middle moving out towards the end of your block, mine were torqed to 125, but dont start at that, start at 85, then go up to 100 then 125. Take your time and dont get in a rush, haste makes waste, and that definetly isnt what you want. You should definetly have a mechanic check out your engine and maybe compression test all of your cylinders, if you are getting less than 120 on all of them then sucked valve seats isnt your only problem.

 

From my experience putting new heads on an old engine just spells trouble down the road. Those new head are going to finnish off your rings. Yeah it might take 10,000 miles, but it will happen. I agree with Bronco Road kill, save your new heads for a complete rebuild. If you are willing to go through the trouble of changing the heads...I would just go a step further and yank that engine and go all the way.

 

thanks for the input. I did a compression check a few months ago and found the values varied. I cannot find the note with the values - wish i could. I have another test to run still to check fuel pressure in the rig at steep inclines. This is all about getting the rig into better running condition for her to go play more. so I will discuss your suggestions about just doing a complete engine as opossed to just the heads.

Thanks
Ritch

 

Just go to the local JY, pull a old 351 and build it. Drive your current till it blows, then put in the new one. Thats what I'd do. I can pick up a decent 351 for under 400, and thats a complete engine