Replacing hubs
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 37
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Replacing hubs
What is the process for replacing a bad hub? Is it as easy as removing the retaining clip and putting the new hub in? Is there any installation difference between a factory hub and a Warn?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 5
From: St. Louis, MO
You got it. Remove the beauty cover to expose the retaining ring/clip. Remove the clip. Wiggle the hub out. Put the new hub in. Replace the clip and beauty ring.
Same process for warn or milemarker, but they are not auto-lock so you would need to cap the vac lines (or you won't have any vent controls in the cab).
Regarding which is best, factory auto-lock, warn premium, or milemarker - do a search on the forum and you will find more information than you likely want.
Good luck.
Same process for warn or milemarker, but they are not auto-lock so you would need to cap the vac lines (or you won't have any vent controls in the cab).
Regarding which is best, factory auto-lock, warn premium, or milemarker - do a search on the forum and you will find more information than you likely want.
Good luck.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 5
From: St. Louis, MO
I can't imagine that the process could be any different (it wouldn't work otherwise). I haven't heard of any guys here using the superwinch hubs, but I haven't heard anything bad either. The replacement should be the same, just check for fit in the cover opening.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 5
From: St. Louis, MO
I've never heard anyone here talk about a kit. I went with the factory auto-lock hubs when I replaced mine last month (really wanted the auto feature - may come to regret it).
To plug the lines, others have used a variety of caps found at your local auto parts store. It seems generally better to plug them inside the engine bay at the pump to avoid any possible leaking in the lines. Most people leave the lines in place though just in case they sell the truck or otherwise want to put it back to factory conditions.
Good luck.
To plug the lines, others have used a variety of caps found at your local auto parts store. It seems generally better to plug them inside the engine bay at the pump to avoid any possible leaking in the lines. Most people leave the lines in place though just in case they sell the truck or otherwise want to put it back to factory conditions.
Good luck.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2003
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Do you know of any site that may have pictures of the pump location or lines so I know where I need to be putting caps?
Thanks for all the help!
Thanks for all the help!
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 5
From: St. Louis, MO
Sorry - I don't. I never looked into it as I went with the factory auto-lock hubs. I would suggest doing a quick search on this forum or just tracing the lines from the hubs (black tubing connecting to the top of the knuckle) back into the engine bay. I recall the pump is mounted on the side of the engine bay behind the battery (passenger side) but this could be wrong.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 68
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Replaced mine this weekend
20 minutes work for the whole thing. Hardest part was getting up and down for an ol' f@rt like me.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...85609276aVntVC
https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...85609276aVntVC
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,800
Likes: 52
From: Southern Colorado
To seal a vacuum hose, coat a deck screw in RTV caulk and screw it into the end of the vac hose that you pull off the hub.
I put a new 5/32" vac line on each hub cavity and ran it up into the engine compartment, to vent the hub cavity. This way, the cavity breathes as it heats and cools. Not a big deal to skip this - you can put a vacuum cap on the hub nipple and leave it at that.
I put a new 5/32" vac line on each hub cavity and ran it up into the engine compartment, to vent the hub cavity. This way, the cavity breathes as it heats and cools. Not a big deal to skip this - you can put a vacuum cap on the hub nipple and leave it at that.