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to remove the switch there are 2 bolts holding it onto the bottom of the column. i am pretty sure they are 7/16 socket size. once you have the switch off the column, you need to unplug it, and remove the actuator rod. reverse to put it back together, but leave it a bit loose so you can adjust it to align it with the key cylinder.
If you actually mean the lock cylinder, put the key in and turn it to run. Stick a small drillbit up into the hole you'll find under the lock on the bottom of the steering column; press in and pull the cylinder out.
if you can not get the key to turn the cylinder, there are 2 choices. you can drill the pin out, or you can use a "slap hammer", or dent puller they are sometimes called. screw it into the cylinder key slot, and pop the cylinder out. then proceed from there. i have done the slap hammer method many times when repossessing cars years ago. but i never replaced the cylinder afterwords, so i do not know the procedure to follow after the cylinder is out. but the banks did request it to be done this way, so it can not be that hard to fix afterwords.
here is what you need to do if you cannot use release pin and key:
-disconnect batt. ground cable
-using channel locks or vise grip pliers, twist lock cyl. chrome cap until it seperates from the lock cylinder
-use a 3/8 inch dia. drill, drill down middle of ign. lock key slot approximatly 44mm (1-3/4 inch) until lock cyl. breaks loose from breakaway base odf lock cylinder. emove lock cyl. and drill shavings and other foriegn materials from casing
-inspect lock cyl. housing for damage from above operation
now you are ready to put in new lock cyl.
this will give you less damage than yanking it out like a thief would.
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