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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 11:00 AM
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generator issues

Friday I was driving home my new '54, crusing right along. it was getting dark so i swithed on the headlights...immediate power loss to the pedal. it was raining so the whipers to where not functional...I know 6 volt is weak but this was rediculous. I ended up following my gal home without running the lights. which then the whipers worked. next morning I was poking around and the wiring is very frail and croded. However, i was able to turn over the engine just fine. I understand I'll need to replace all the wiring, a whooping 500.00 from blue oval. My question is, Can I problem solve this to get it road worthy? Start from the battery then to the gen, to the regulator(which was replaced by the seller.)
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 01:14 PM
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This would be a great time to dump that dinosaur generator and replace it with an alternator and change it over to 12 volts....

Vern
 
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 05:57 PM
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would you suggest an alternator rather than a 12 volt generator?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 10:50 PM
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Those hotrodders are from the dark side - just trying to suck you into the warp - be strong and ignore those twisted souls.

I run a 12V generator on my 48 and it has worked very well for the past 5 years.

Alternators! Next they'll be trying to talk you into air conditioning or some other frivolous trivit...
 

Last edited by mtflat; Jan 16, 2006 at 10:53 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 11:23 PM
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$500 for a wiring kit is out of line. Look around, someone had a thread on here for a vendor selling them for around $180 a couple weeks ago.

A generator will work fine if you keep it up. It's a slippery slope once you start heading to the dark side -- but the alternators are nice....
 

Last edited by ALBUQ F-1; Jan 16, 2006 at 11:26 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by low54
would you suggest an alternator rather than a 12 volt generator?
There must be a reason car manufacturers don't put generators on cars anymore. Ummmm, could it be that they are relics of the past...sorta like me? Come into the dark and put a modern charging system on your truck. Do you hear that sucking sound? It's calling for you...

Vern
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 11:00 AM
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Generator or alternatator, I'll still be changing out the old wiring harness...So much of the wiring is brittle. I'll look for that post. A 180.00 is a nice relief! But the 6 volt has to go!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 12:59 PM
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Make up your mind on the generator/alternator BEFORE getting a wiring kit so that you can get the proper wiring for whatever charging system you prefer. Unless you plan to go with an all original harness there are some aftermarket wiring systems even less expensive than $180. Look at Painless, Autowire, and others.

Vern
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 01:23 PM
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Excelent advise, I'll check into it...I'm partial to the 12V Gen. Not only is it a clean swap w/ the 6V but I just like the Vintage thing as well. Also, Sac.Vintage has cowl harnesses for 175.00. The full harnesses are 350.00
 
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 04:06 PM
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Consider doing your own wiring. Buy a couple spools of 14 gauge wires in the colors you like, a nice crimper, a cutter/stripper, and an assortment of the type of crimp connectors of the same style as the connectors you will be replacing.

This approach should work fine. Unless all of your wiring is shot, then a harness would be easier.

I've replaced my wiring in phases, starting with the worst. Some of it is still original and working well.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 10:39 PM
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I bought, from Mid Fifty, just the wiring harness from the starter button, under dash and up to headlights. I bought the original style harness. The wiring to the taillights was OK and I figured if I had to it is so easy to run wire your self. I didn't touch the horn wire.

I stayed 6 volt and generator. I never have a charging problem, nor a starting problem. I have started my truck in 0 degree temperature after sitting for 2 weeks. I believe keeping a truck 6 volt is easier than going to 12 volt and having to change all the bulbs, heater fan motor, gauges, etc. I did get my generator and starter rebuilt. Make sure you replace the cables from the battery to the starter, to the frame (ground) and to the generator with new correct gauge (should be '0' or '00') cables. Do not use stuff you buy at a parts store, it does not carry enough juice.

When you do go to replace your harness, do a little at a time. Do not rip out your old harness and have it laying on the floor and then scratch your head trying to remember what goes where. Remove a bit of the old then replace with the new as you go. Label, label, label.

Of course if you want modern electrical accessories, radio, stereo, etc, then you have to change over to 12 volt... what ever trips your trigger.

good luck, abe
 
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 10:56 AM
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Thanks fella's,
over the weekend I pulled the cables from bat, to ground, to starter. Clean all the "gunk," off. I will need to replace all of it. The wiring is so frail, trying to insulate it "for now," was even a challenge. Funny though, putting all back together, it fired right up. Its a tough litt' sucker. Tailights work and signels too, but the headlights are still not working, a grounding problem there, either the switch or the dimmer button i'm guessing. Couldn't help driving it to work today, I'll just get it home before dark! I've also, looked at replacing the cowl harness, I do like your suggestion of doing a litt' at a time. Thanks again, I'll keep you posted.
Devan
 
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:41 PM
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The grounding problem could be at the headlights not at the switch. Your headlight buckets could be rusted and and not making good contact with the body metal to metal.

abe
 
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 10:32 AM
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Oh, I hadn't thought of that,
 
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