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[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 09-Sep-01 AT 12:59 PM (EST)[/font][p]Hey guys, it's Bill again. Still working on this 68' F-100. I think my distributor is bad! I replaced the points(single), condenser, rotor button, cap, and wires. Installed it (what I thought was properly). Dropped it in with the rotor pointing towards # 1 on the cap, after the # 1 piston was at TDC.
It still wasn't even close to being in time. We pulled the dist. out and started over. Only this time, pointed the rotor towards #1 CYL.(not on the cap) It still wasn't even close. So, I found a brand new Motorcraft Dual Point distributor. As this was the only thing I did not replace on the newly rebuilt 360. My question is, Since I have stock electronics, coil, etc, will the dual points have any harmful affects to these components? And, could someone please give this "Seeming to be IDIOT" LOL....some tips on how do install a new distributor!!!! I would really like to have electronic ignition, or maybe the Petronix with the flame Thrower one day, but for now, Money is an Issue. Thanks for even more advice,
Bill
P.S.
What would the dual points be set at?
Are they both set at the same gap?
What is your procedure for finding TDC? It's important to get it right. Also, if you have a voltmeter, after you set the points, you can put it on ohms scale and put one lead one the wire, and one lead on the dist body. Turn the dist with your hand, and the meter should read the points opening and closing.
Finding TDC, I pulled the #1 plug and used a wooden dowel to make sure the piston was completely at TDC,(Keep in mind, this thing is a fresh rebuild. never started yet) while slowly turning the crank at the damper. I WISH I had a multi meter!!!! I agree, that would make the job much easier to set the points. And I think you can set the dwell with them too. Right??
What I'm, trying to find out though, is where to point the rotor?
At #1 on the cap, or dirictly at the # 1 CYL? And, using the dual point system, what are the points set at, and are they set at the same gap?
Bill
Point the rotor at toward #1 on the cap I have a mallory dual points distributor I had the gap sat at .019 I got lucky the last time I put the dist. back in it fired right up. Right now the engine is the the process of being rebuilt I think I am going to use a crane fireball ignition conversion kit on mine. Eric
keep in mind that the crank turns twice for every one revolution of the cam therefore you may have the wrong tdc. turn the motor until the rocker arm for the intake on number 1 cylinder goes down then turn it until the number one piston hits tdc. also i would think that a new distributor would have the points set already.
He's right, you might have the wrong TDC, you really need to take off the valve cover and watch the intake rocker.
One trick I used was to hook up the timming light and set the engine to 10deg btdc and twist the dist back and forth until the timming light fired. turn the ign to on and hook up the light normally, once the light fires your done. This also makes it easier to place the dist in a favorable position so that you can adjust the timming without hitting something.
Yes, what the other guys said is important. You might be on the exhaust stroke, not TDC. This is a 4 cycle engine so the piston is up for firing, and also up for finishing the exhaust and getting ready to suck more fuel in on the down stroke. I use the rocker arm method, some guys stick their thumb over the sparkplug hole. It will build pressure on the TDC stroke because both valves are closed.
Thanks guys...I do understand about getting TDC on the compression stroke. However....the distributor is a new one, but the guy I'm buying it from has had it for awhile. For some reason, it dosen't have the points, or condenser with it. I need to know if both sets of points are set at the same gap?
Thanks,
Bill
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