Couple of questions regarding frame boxing. I cruised the archives, did a search, and I still have 2 questions.

1. I plan on boxing the entire frame, front to back, since I'm going IRS / IFS. I measured the thickness of my frame tonight, and came up with 5/32, which is between 1/8, and 3/16. So what do I use? What have you all used?

2. Trying to wrangle a 16 foot long peice of sheet steel doesn't sound like too much fun. Is it acceptable to cut it up into maybe 3 or 4 fooot sections, then tack weld those sections into the frame, and to each other? Or will I need to buy a keg of beer, and throw a "Boxing Party"? I plan on doing the cardboard template trick, so running the whole shebang all at once is an option, albeit the less desireable one....

That's all for now, I'm sure more will come later. BTW, if you need any stock, and well worn F1 steering / front end parts, they'll be off the truck tomorrow. And, with any luck, so will the cab.

Figured I'd throw that out there, let y'all know before they go to "that auction site".

Thanks;
John

 

10 ga (~1/8") cold rolled plate is the std boxing material. The way I do it is to cut the plate to fit INSIDE the rails and inset it ~ 1/8-3/16" That give you an inside corner to weld (easy) rather than an outside corner (hard) and saves you from having to grind the welds smooth. Yes, you can divide the plates into sections, but for best strength angle the butt joints over 4-6" rather than making them vertical, and seam in a non stressed area, or better still box between crossmembers. Couple of thoughts: be sure to lock the rails down solid and measure diagonals and record the measurements to recheck as you go along. You definitely DON'T want to have a boxing party! Take your time do short 1" welds and skip around as far apart as possible and allow complete cooling time between welds in an area. You do not have to weld a continuous bead between the plate and the frame a 1" bead every 3-4" is plenty strong and less likely to warp. In between welds check measurements often or you'll end up with very strong steel airplane propellers.
Be 100% sure you know every bolt hole that requires a nut welded behind it and/or install crush tubes for thru bolts. Personally I would not do solid full length boxing plates. It's more work, but I'd cut 3x6" oval holes 12 inches apart in the plate before installing it. Besides looking trick they give you access to the inside of the frame for rust proofing, routing wires and lines, reaching bolts or nuts you forgot to allow for, etc, and is just as strong as solid plates. If you do go with solid plates, at least paint the inside of the frame and plate with weld thru primer, it will slow down the rust showing up.

 

What he said

 

AXracer has my vote. I'd listen to him.