I Beam Help?
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 74
From: Hartford, AL
I Beam Help?
In the process of my rebuild I took the I beams off and rebuilt the kingpins, new busings, the works. Problem is I didn't mark which beam was front beam and which was back. I have put back together with Beam marked DTA-8-TA in the front with the passenger side knuckle. The rear beam is marked DTA-9-TA with the driver side knuckle. Did I assemble these back correctly? Help?
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 74
From: Hartford, AL
I'm taking your word for it....Thanks Gas Hog! Sure, didn't want to have to change. I was thinking that each beam would have differnt caster settings and would be off if I had put the knuckles back on the wrong beams. If anyone thinks Gas Hog is wrong please let me know.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: CA
Yes, but...a small amount of caster IS built into the beams. It can be adjusted with offset bushings when necessary, but it is there. Even the part numbers indicate a difference. If you switch them, your steering and stability may suffer.
Last edited by Polkat; Jan 12, 2006 at 11:04 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,439
Likes: 6
From: Spokane WA
Originally Posted by Polkat
Yes, but...a small amount of caster IS built into the beams. It can be adjusted with offset bushings when necessary, but it is there. Even the part numbers indicate a difference. If you switch them, your steering and stability may suffer.
Lots of trucks have beams with 2 different forging #s, the forging #'s indicate kingpin size and each size has several #'s.
You haven't had one of these front ends apart have you?
Last edited by oldhalftons; Jan 12, 2006 at 11:30 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 74
From: Hartford, AL
Thanks guys. I just wanted to be sure before I got any further with the reassemble. I didn't think there was a difference, but I just wanted to be sure that caster wasn't an issue. My front end looks really good and tight now. New Kingpins, old one's were about frozen, and all new poly bushings. Pressure washed and sandblasted springs beams, front spring cups, and painted everything with a coat of chassis saver.
Trending Topics
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 705
Likes: 0
From: Okla.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 74
From: Hartford, AL
I think the bolt that holds the kingpin can go in either way as well, so I'm not sure if I could use that as a guide, but the census is that the beams are the same, so I think I'm going to leave it the way it is.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: CA
Okay, I'm confused, and you are right. The front suspension on these trucks are the only parts I've done little with. So how did the factory preset the caster? I read somewhere, and it made sense to me, that the caster was bent into the beam itself near the kingpin (the kingpin hole inclining slightly back) but you've assured me that this is not true!
Well, it doesn't appear that the radius arm pushes the bottom of the beam forward (or pulls the top back) as far as I can see (which would also tweak the shock, spring, and pivot bushing setup, which seems unlikely).
So can anyone explain to me how the factory initially set caster? Thanks.
Well, it doesn't appear that the radius arm pushes the bottom of the beam forward (or pulls the top back) as far as I can see (which would also tweak the shock, spring, and pivot bushing setup, which seems unlikely).
So can anyone explain to me how the factory initially set caster? Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,439
Likes: 6
From: Spokane WA
caster is 0 degrees
front to rear, the kingpin is vertical. the beams have a camber angle built in, the top of the kingpin is a little bit outboard of the bottom.
front to rear, the kingpin is vertical. the beams have a camber angle built in, the top of the kingpin is a little bit outboard of the bottom.
Last edited by oldhalftons; Jan 14, 2006 at 12:17 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 74
From: Hartford, AL
So that would be a slight positive camber? Positive is if the top leans out further than the bottom or is it just the opposite. I can't remember. Also, there is a machined flat area on the front part of the beam where the kingpin lockpin goes. Is this the side where the nut and washer for the kingpin lock goes? I think I put those in backwards. I have the locknut on the backside, not the side with the machined flat area. Would that matter? It doesn't seem to interfere with anything.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,954
Likes: 64
Just from general knowledge, the camber would be built into the beam and it wouldn't matter which side it was on, it would be the same, and caster can be done by mounting the beams at an angle, it doesn't have to be set into the beam so even if it had a couple of degrees of caster it could still have identicle beams.