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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 10:35 AM
  #1  
BEAVER's Avatar
BEAVER
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Headers

Hello All,

I'm looking for the best method for removing headers with out snapping the bolts. I need to remove them off my 351-M but they are pretty rusty. I've heard different methods from different people, such as letting them soak in WD-40 for a few days, using heat, and a product called Liquid Wrench. Also what would be the best tool? Would a regular socket do? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Brendan
1977 F-250 4X4
351M / 4 Speed
33" BFG Tires
Red
 
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 10:42 AM
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beartracks
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Headers

I would definately soak them several time. Make sure the engine is cool. Use the proper socker. i.e. if it'a a six point bolt head use a six point socket not a 12. Use anti sieze on the new bolts.

Good luck!

1977 Ford F-100
400m/c6/4:11/Gear Vender O.D.
Crane hydralic roller, forged, ported polished,Deamon,Edlebrock, yada, yada, yada
280,000 miles
Stock on the outside
modified/rebuilt everything

 
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 02:00 PM
  #3  
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Headers

I have had better experience using liquid wrench than wd40. I would also use a 3lb hammer at the end of the socket wrench and tap LIGHTLY to try and loosen the bolt.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 02:48 PM
  #4  
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Headers

PB Blaster is the stuff. You can find it at your local auto parts store. Makes WD-40 and Liquid Wrench look like water.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 02:57 PM
  #5  
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pb blaster is the best
 
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 07:58 PM
  #6  
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Headers

One more for pb blaster it un seized my motor cycle engine
Rodney
69 f100 360FE 3 on the tree 9 inch
 
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 09:38 PM
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Headers

I have had good luck with PB Blaster myself. I'd dispute the advise of doing the bolts cold, I've heard it suggested that it works better hot. Got asbestos gloves? Also, do you have a thread chase for aftercare so that the new bolts you put in w/ antiseize have a nice clean thread?


BBT
 
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 07:18 AM
  #8  
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Headers

Hot is definitely the way to go, at least if you can't get them out on the first try cold. Use lots of PB Blaster, let it soak in, and apply gentle, even pressure. If they don't move at all, or move a little and then bind, don't force them. Warm up the engine, and then try again. I've had success removing stuck exhaust manifold bolts in several cars over the years by warming up the engine.

karlsd a/k/a "ksd"
69 F100 Explorer 360/C6
 
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 09:58 AM
  #9  
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Headers

Hot is probably good for the PB Blaster but I think the bolts are less likely to seize if you remove them cold.

1977 Ford F-100
400m/c6/4:11/Gear Vender O.D.
Crane hydralic roller, forged, ported polished,Deamon,Edlebrock, yada, yada, yada
280,000 miles
Stock on the outside
modified/rebuilt everything

 
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 02:37 PM
  #10  
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dfisher1
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Headers

Headers and exhaust manifolds offer two different problems. Headers fall off and manifolds won't fall off, ever. Don't strip the head. Soak them down with your penetrating oil first. Use a torch if there seized. They are easier to heat up if the motor is already hot. Heat the bolt head red hot only. Do not melt the bolt head unless it is already stripped beyond hope. Quickly remove the bolt while head is still red or close to that time. The bolt will probally squeak and howl and vibrate back through the racket. Don't worry about that, get the bolt out as fast as you can. If it seizes again, stop and reheat bolt till red hot, try to remove again. Keep trying until you ruin the bolt, then torch it off.
Good Luck, You won't have Fun,
KingFisher
 
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 05:30 PM
  #11  
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Headers

Thanks to everyone who helped with the headers question. PB Blaster was the answer. I sprayed it on the cold engine and let it sit for 5 minutes. Then the bolts came out like nothing. I was done in less than 30 minutes. Now the hard part is putting the new one's in. I went with Dynomax headers and the sheet that came with it says the front driveshaft has to be disconnected, as well as the clutch idler, dipstick and starter. That'll be my Sunday project. Thanks again for your help.

Brendan
 
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Old Sep 29, 2001 | 09:45 PM
  #12  
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Headers

Now would be a good time to chase the threads w/ a thread chase and cutting oil. Also a good time to buy some fresh grade 8 bolts and antiseize for them. You'll be happy you did next time they need off.

BBT
 
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Old Sep 30, 2001 | 12:31 AM
  #13  
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Headers

Use Stainless fasteners, lockwashers, etc, with anti-sieze if you want to do the job right. If you have a motorcycle budy see if he can drill the fasteners for SS safety wire. I use stainless for all exhaust work (I hate rusty bolts and pipes), and also any place where a bolt goes into aluminum that may get water around it. Always use A-S whenever a steel bolt is threaded into aluminum.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2001 | 04:42 PM
  #14  
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Headers

How do they fit? I have dynomax headers and it doesn't look like they will fit. I put them in place (heads not on engine yet) and it looks like they will hit the front driveshaft. Let me know how yours fit also how you will route the exhaust.

jake
 
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Old Sep 30, 2001 | 05:22 PM
  #15  
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Headers

I just got them on today. They took a while, but they fit. On the left side I had to remove the clutch linkage, and bend he dipstick, but on the right side, I had to remove the starter and a few spark plugs, after that I had to jack the engine up in order to clear the motor mounts and bellhousing. If you bought the headers with the black paint, you can expect a lot of paint to be scraped off in the process. If you bought the ceramic headers, I'd be real careful. Good Luck.

Brendan
 
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