well I got this old snapper lawn mower to play with. and I've been taking it apart, and if I get it running great, I dunno what I'll do with it. at very least I'll have fun taking it apart and figuring it all out. anyway I can't get these two parts off.
check out this picture

http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1223630/i/cuz/motor.JPG

The one nearer the engine has a screw with a hex head that holds it on, I had to take it to the mower shop and a guy up there got it loose for me. brought it back flaming hot, he it heated with a torch and had to use an impact wrench to get it loose. he said he backed it off a few turns. I still can't turn it, twisted my allen wrench. Anyway, how the heck do these things come off? If I have to I can take it back to the shop tomorrow and get him to do it. but I'd just assume do it myself.

thanks
-matt

incase it helps it's a:
Snapper Mower:
Model: P21407T
Serial No.: 06317516
with a '91 or '92 Tecumseh 4 stoke 4.0HP engine
TVS105 53122G SER0080N

 

I think you need a hack saw

 

make sure all the allen screws and bolts are out of the blade holder(bottom) and pulley(top). the pulley will proably have some set screws and the bottom should be held on with the bolt that held the blade. Now rust will have these firmly attached and will be a bear to remove. usually a big two jaw puller and heat will get them off. Worst case would be having to split them to get them off the shaft, best case the puller will move them right off. This will be the hardest part, so find a big two jaw puller and try that first then get destructive. Just think if some anti seize had been used the last time they were off the would of came off easy, so put some back on when you put it together again...

later chris

 

You need a King size puller for that blade mount, that was prolly pressed on, then rusted on, and designed to never come off. Try your local autoparts store, ask them if you can rent a puller, usually they will oblige, then they will give your entire deposit back if you return the tool in good condition. But...if you break the tool, your fun project will get expensive quickly.

 

GET A PULLER!!!!

You will use it for all kinds of stuff over time...

YEAH!


Buy tools....
Buy tools....
Buy tools....
Buy tools....
Buy tools....

There are two major differences between us and our forebears:

We can use tools

and-

We don't have to reinvent them!

 

Actually pullers aren't extremely expensive, and as said before you find uses for em all the time, I know Advance Auto rents stuff and it ends up being free, which I was surprised by the first time I used that service.

 

As said, you need a puller. I'm presuming the end of the crankshaft is drilled and threaded. Be sure you put something on the end of the shaft so the puller doesn't ruin the threads in the shaft, or you'll be buying a new shaft..

 

I usually run the bolt back in all but a couple of threads, say 1/16 to 1/8 inch from tight, and let the puller bear on the bolt head. I tighten the puller down quite snug, then tap it a couple times on the puller shaft, tighten slightly, and tap again. Don't hit it hard enough to round off the puller shaft, easy does it. I find that this will start the part moving easier than trying to brute force the part off by cranking on the puller. Once it breaks free, then crank on the puller to remove it, backing the bolt out as you pull.

 

I found a 5ton puller that can be a 2 or 3 arm puller at Harbor Frieght for 13bucks. I'll see if they have one at my local store tomorrow, and let yall know how it turns out. too bad I have to buy a new tool, bummer
thanks
-matt
EDIT: I had thought about that, and was planning on running the bolt back in there a little
I've gotta fix a leaky radiator hose tomorrow on my moms burban, I'll tell her I'm testing to make sure it's fixed and run down to harbor freight

 

For that, get a puller, and a torch. you can figure out how to use both to get it off. of all else fails, break out the gas chop saw, and just hack it right off there.

 

I'm surprised that no-one has posted that you should spray the components with a penetrating oil/lubricant to 'eat' some of the corrosion.

Kano-Kroil (or the aerosol version - Aero-Kroil) is really good at 'creeping' into joints and loosening stuck / rusted peices.
Spray the pieces and let them sit about 30 minutes. Spray again and let sit another 30 minutes.
Now, go at it. . .

As for the puller, to echo 94van and alchymist, run the bolt back into the end of the crankshaft to protect the end of the shaft and the threads inside the shaft.

Note: You need to note how the blade adapter is mounted. IF the hole in the center of the adapter is small (and you can't pull the adapter off, past the bolthead) you will either need to keep the bolt loose a couple of threads and work VERY slowly taking the adapter off (a little at a time), or you MIGHT need to use a slide hammer to remove the adapter.
Just be cautious that you don't bend or break the bolt off, in the end of the crankshaft. (Been there, done that.)

Keith

 

Word: PB BLASTER

It will fall apart after six hours....

That stuff resembles aircraft turboshaft lubricant

 

You hack into the S.O.B., and none of it will be useful.

What are you thinking?

Screw all of this junk about cutting and busting. A puller will do it, a torch might help. Penetrant will loosen it.

DON'T CUT INTO JACK SQUAT!!!

 

haha, ok I won't
I got a set of 3, three jaw pullers today. Harbor Freight was having a sale $9.99 for the set. I got the blade mount off with little trouble. The pully is giving me a little more grief. I've moved it about an inch, it moves in notches. I tighten down the biggest puller (5 ton) as tight as I can get it then heat it with a torch and . . . . . BAM!! the puller falls off. but it's getting harder and harder, like the shaft is getting wider and wider. I'm gonna give my dad and call and ask him to bring home some siezed bolt penetrant lubricant or whatever it's called tonight. I'll let yall know how it turns out
-matt

 

Use penetrating oil or the wax candle trick. That pully will slide right off. That is the pulley that powers the self-propelled rear wheels.
You could use some emery cloth to clean off where the pulley was , then rinse the area with WD 40 and use a short length of pipe to prudently drive the pully back to its original position. Clean off the section of the crankshaft that the pulley will have to slide over to be removed (the area where it is stuck right now!) and use your puller. On a mower engine, I always slightly center drill the head of a 3/8" NF bolt and thread it into to end of the crankshaft to prevent messing up the threads at the end of the shaft, but on many engines I've seen over the past several years, a chamfer has been cut around the beginning of the threads to prevent damage from cone-shaped pullers.
Anyway, AND THIS IS THE IMPORTANT PART, once you get the pulley off, thoroughly sand the entire shaft. Especially in close to the oil seal. You must have no rust on the length of that shaft when you try to slide the sump cover off as the journal (inside the plain bearing in the sump cover) is the same size as the exposed crankshaft. Pay close attention to any keyways that may have a slightly raised edge on one side. Lightly run a file over that raised adge of the keyway until it is flush with or lower than the rest of the shaft.
Remove all your sump cover bolts and gently thump the sump cover loose. If the shaft is rust free and rinsed of grit, the sump will slide right off without any under force (ie: simple hand pressure). If the sumps sticks, push it back and clean the shaft more. If you force that sump out over the shaft by beating on it, you will really scratch up the bearing inside the sump. IT SHOULD JUST SLIDE RIGHT OFF.
Then you can have fun taking apart the guts! (note the direction of the piston/connecting rod assembly, and the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft)
Good Luck!