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[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 27-Sep-01 AT 02:59 PM (EST)[/font][p]Need to start harrison's restoration on the front end. Where can I get NEW i-beams for this fantastic beast? Anybody know? I need to get the front suspension and steering updated to match the power of that roaring beast under the hood.
Hoping you can help; I am...
The LaptopGeek -----
1974 White F100 Custom Fleetside
460 bored .040 over & C-6 automatic 2WD
Lunati cam, L&L Headers / mounts
Holley Avenger 770CFM & Edlebrock RPM
Plush black leather 40-20-40 bench seat
38 gallon JC Whitney fuel tank
Unless you want dropped I-beams, I think your only chance of finding new beams would be on the shelf in the back of a warehouse somewhere. What's wrong with yours that they need replaced?
Jason Kendrick
1970 F100 Custom 390/C6
1978 F150 Ranger Lariat Supercab 460/C6
I'm using the A.I.M. units. They're well built but will require a full alignment. As far as stock units just replace the pivot bushing with poly and the king pins with brass bushings and you should be better than new.
1977 Ford F-100
400m/c6/4:11/Gear Vender O.D.
Crane hydralic roller, forged, ported polished,Deamon,Edlebrock, yada, yada, yada
280,000 miles
Stock on the outside
modified/rebuilt everything
The steering / suspension has lots of slop. Instead replacing a bushing here or there, I really wanted make sure everything was brand new; trying to get Harrison to last another 20 years...
The LaptopGeek -----
1974 White F100 Custom Fleetside
460 bored .040 over & C-6 automatic 2WD
Lunati cam, L&L Headers / mounts
Holley Avenger 770CFM & Edlebrock RPM
Plush black leather 40-20-40 bench seat
38 gallon JC Whitney fuel tank
I would venture to say that the beams are the last thing anyone replaces, unless the truck has taken a very hard hit and bent the beams. I always think of the beams as a non-replacable item. If you screw one up, then you've probably got some frame damage somewhere to deal with. I don't know for sure how the beams were packaged from Ford over 25 years ago, but I'll bet they had to have the bushings installed in them before assembly. So my whole point is- if you replace the kingpin bushings, you essentially have a new pair of beams. Now replace the radius arm bushings, the tie rod and the drag link, the flexible thingy in the column(can't remember the proper terminology), slap on a new set of tires and finally have it aligned, you should be in business, providing your steering box is in good shape.
Jason Kendrick
1970 F100 Custom 390/C6
1978 F150 Ranger Lariat Supercab 460/C6
I did my front end ('79 2WD) four months ago. Unless you have quick access to a press I suggest looking up a good machine shop. It's easy to pull the I-beams - can be hard to replace the king pins. Go with the brass bushings not the quick fix nylon jobs. Have the shop remove the old bushings and press and hone the new ones. I also replaced the pivot bushings. I had new ones pressed in - I've read some posts about using nylon ones and slipping them into the old casings - the old rubber ones lasted 20+ years I don't think the urethane will be much more of an advantage. I replaced my spings and recommend you'll need to also since Harrison has two more cylinders. While I was at it I cleaned up the I-beams, radius arms, splindles, and brake plate enough to give them some undercoat. Looks clean now. Unfortunately, after all the rebuilding the wander and slop is still persistant. I replaced the rag joint too. I've narrowed down my steering problems down to the gear box - seeing I have to help it back to straight after every turn and it's leaking fluid. Sometimes the king pins are easy to get out, sometimes they're not - if not, don't waste time with pounding or heating - you'll need an impact hammer. I even tried jacking the truck up from one of the pins - it wouldn't budge. Keep us informed - it's all fresh in my mind.
You can get a rebuilt box from LMCtruck.com. I have had so much fun with the Twin I-Beam ( I have three at the moment ) that I am replacing the whole shebang on my 78 2wd F250 with an independent front suspension from a 3/4 ton Dodge. The Twin I-beam system does absolutely nothing right when it comes to steering geometry. I like Ford's (obviously) but I hate Ford's worst idea, next to those A/C quick connects. A complete rebuild of the 78 will include some vital improvements!
I did my front end ('79 2WD) four months ago. Unless you have quick access to a press I suggest looking up a good machine shop. It's easy to pull the I-beams - can be hard to replace the king pins. Go with the brass bushings not the quick fix nylon jobs. Have the shop remove the old bushings and press and hone the new ones. I also replaced the pivot bushings. I had new ones pressed in - I've read some posts about using nylon ones and slipping them into the old casings - the old rubber ones lasted 20+ years I don't think the urethane will be much more of an advantage. I replaced my spings and recommend you'll need to also since Harrison has two more cylinders. While I was at it I cleaned up the I-beams, radius arms, splindles, and brake plate enough to give them some undercoat. Looks clean now. Unfortunately, after all the rebuilding the wander and slop is still persistant. I replaced the rag joint too. I've narrowed down my steering problems down to the gear box - seeing I have to help it back to straight after every turn and it's leaking fluid. Sometimes the king pins are easy to get out, sometimes they're not - if not, don't waste time with pounding or heating - you'll need an impact hammer. I even tried jacking the truck up from one of the pins - it wouldn't budge. Keep us informed - it's all fresh in my mind.
Thank you for the up-to-date reply!! I guess I'll keep the beams, but take them to the shop to have the bronze bushings pressed in....I have enough grey hair as it is...no need to fight with it when I can pay somebody else $50 to do it right and do it quick and do it safe.
Speaking of HONING....don't I have to take something else to the machine shop...like the thigamajiggers that fit into whatever they hone? (pardon my technical terms..)
The LaptopGeek -----
1974 White F100 Custom Fleetside
460 bored .040 over & C-6 automatic 2WD
Lunati cam, L&L Headers / mounts
Holley Avenger 770CFM & Edlebrock RPM
Plush black leather 40-20-40 bench seat
38 gallon JC Whitney fuel tank
When you buy the new king pins, they should come in a kit that also contains 2 X thrust bearings, shims, 4 X grease caps & zirks, as well as 4 X METAL bushings that will replace the ones that are in your spindles now. The shop will need to press the old bushings out and press the new ones in. Once they're in- they hone them to a few .0001" of the king pins' diameters. The pivot bushings are relatively expensive I paid about $25 each for them + ?? to have the old ones pressed out and the new ones put in. Remember to reinstall the I-beams in the same position as when you remove them (if the shop doesn't reassemble the spindles to the I-beams).
I recently had my front king pins replaced for the first time on my 1970 F-100 LWB. I have owned the truck since 1987. The shop had to Bush and hone the I-BEAM end as well as the Spindle portion of the Steering. With my New Gear box and new king pins,radius arm, and track arm bushings the front end is AMAZING! no slop what so ever.... NONE no drift no nothing... granted the total cost to get the work done (I installed the axle myself) was $250, but well worth it!
Uzi... Yamaha Sleds, Honda Bikes, and Ford Trucks....