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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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5.4 Cams

has anyone here upgraded the cams on their 5.4?
what would you recommend for street/offroad power?
what kind of power increases did you experience?
How difficult are they to install?
What else do you need to buy when you do this?


thanks,

Paul
 
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 12:26 PM
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It's an all day job in the truck from what I have seen. I would contact CompCams and fill out the data sheet on what you are wanting out of the truck and they will recommend the correct camshafts.
I would pick up a manual for the truck either on cd-rom or in book form like a Haynes manual. It should have detailed instructions in it.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 01:42 PM
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I found a write-up on the install that a Mustang owner did... the Windsor 4.6 and 5.4 are identical when it comes to cams.
Read up here: http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=39

-Kerry
 
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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Thanks for the info.

Any idea on rwhp and rwtq i would get out of a change like this?
Would i be able to do the swap with the engine still in the truck?

Seems like its probably a bigger project than i'm prepared to take on right now. Maybe in a couple of years.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 07:18 PM
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I don't have a clue about power numbers... it really depends on the cam grind and other upgrades to the engine already installed. Ask yourself this: If it didn't give you any added power for $700+, why would they sell it? I know they sell the tornado, but I mean the work involved in the cam replacements is so much more and by quality names in engine building with so many users already.

As far as the swap being done in the truck, it's awfully tight, and you want to do it right. You can do it with the engine in, but I'd say do it out of the truck or lift the cab (which, by the way, is the factory way to get the engine out). If you take the engine out, you might as well pull the heads and upgrade with aftermarket or have them ported and polished. The aftermarket heads are way, way expensive, tho...

-Kerry
 
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:42 PM
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Also, larger cams usually move the power band up so you will make more power on the top end, but may loose some low end torque which is what a truck needs to tow and pull hard from a stop.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 11:00 PM
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They do make a mild enough grinds that gives a moderate torque and horse power gain low enough in the rpms... these are ones with a 270-274" lift with a 250-265 degree duration on both intake and exhaust. They usually can be used without changing the ECU program. The ones to steer clear of are the grinds that start out at 275"+ lift with 255+ degree duration.

Comp, Crane, and Crower all make streetable cams for the 5.4... just have to check the emissions legality.

-Kerry
 
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 04:57 PM
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The mild PI cams have .550" lift and 262/266 degrees of duration I think from Comp Cams.
.500 lift for the non-PI heads.
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Cu...HTML/66-67.asp
 
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 09:13 PM
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Man, I was trying to read the darn cam card, but I misread it. Didn't make too much sense anyway.

250-274 duration on a .500" lift is what I recommend... the longer the duration and/or the larger the lobe, the more likely you'll make power at a higher rpm and be completely unstreetable.
Max duration for PI heads is 250-265 without new springs... if you go for something a bit longer ie 268 or a taller lobe ie .550", you'll definitely need new valve springs, I'd say change them out anyway with new cams.

-Kerry
 
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 10:18 PM
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That would be actual lobe lift. Multiply .275 cam lift times rocker ratio 1.85 = .509 valve lift.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 07:39 PM
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I discussed it with my engine building buddy at work and he schooled me.... I can swap them out, but can I read the card??? Anyway, don't go for the lumpy cam if you're going to be keeping the truck streetable...

-Kerry
 
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