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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Elecrical/starting headache

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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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RCEME 411
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Elecrical/starting headache

I need help with this one, 97 F-250HD 4x4 PSD, it ran fine when parked yesterday, now will not fire, cranks ok, no glow plug light,radio or gauges. Fuses all checked and rechecked all ok, note to this that key on or off fuse # 22 under hood has no power. Tried powering it up with test lead but fuse blows, left blown fuse in and powered each side of it separately, everything seems to be fine. Tried starting with right side of fuse powered, vehicle starts and runs but will not shut off or are there any gauges or radio. Powered other side gauges work as does radio but vehicle will not run. I also tried a new ignition switch to no avail as everything remained the same. Ihave also been unable to locate any wiring diagrams for the electrical system in this truck (short of buying on from a dealer). I bought this truck used in June and Have put almost 20,000 Km on it with no trouble to date.
 

Last edited by RCEME 411; Jan 7, 2006 at 06:16 PM. Reason: Its a PSD
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 09:13 PM
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
Hi and welcome to FTE! Be sure to read this to help you around this site: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...88#post3272088 There are also State, Provincial and International Chapters located near the bottom of the main forum page.

We are glad to have you. Hope you enjoy the site. Check out the various forums. Lots of great info for you.

Thread moved to 87-96 F-series trucks forum. Your 97 is the same body style.

See ya on the boards!

-Matt
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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Not sure if this applies to deisels, but I would check the soleniod, the eec relay, the ignition relay, and the neutral safety switch. In that order.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 09:26 PM
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RCEME 411
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truck should be in diesel section

I forgot to mention that this is a power strke turbo diesel, that's why I'm having so much trouble with the availability of wiring diagrams.
Don


Originally Posted by Beast12
Hi and welcome to FTE! Be sure to read this to help you around this site: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...88#post3272088 There are also State, Provincial and International Chapters located near the bottom of the main forum page.

We are glad to have you. Hope you enjoy the site. Check out the various forums. Lots of great info for you.

Thread moved to 87-96 F-series trucks forum. Your 97 is the same body style.

See ya on the boards!

-Matt
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 09:30 PM
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Smile

Thanks already tried all that everything works fine when it's power up but the main problem seems to be a short or open somewhere between the ignition switch and the #22 fuse in the under hood fuse/relay panel.

Don



QUOTE=Popa Tim]Not sure if this applies to deisels, but I would check the soleniod, the eec relay, the ignition relay, and the neutral safety switch. In that order.[/QUOTE]
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800a3a41.jsp
Scroll all the way to the bottom image. I hope this works!
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 09:55 PM
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Yes! Its for only up to 96 but I don't think there were any major changes.
Good luck,
Tim
 
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 01:26 AM
  #8  
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From: Piney Point Shores, Md
The blown fuse is a primary indication of where the problem would likely be found. It would also indicate the nature of the fault; that being a HARD GROUND, (Hot lead Directly to Ground).

What does Fuse 22 power up? (Check your owners manual)
With the battery disconnected and Ign Sw off; Sectionalize the affected circuit by; Unplug /disconnect those components on that circuit one at a time then use your multimeter set on CONTINUITY and go from Point (hot lead to component) to Ground to find which one is grounded. DO this by performing the following:

1. Take one multimeter lead and put it on a GOOD Chasis ground.
2. (Carefully) Push a stick pin through the harness on the common lead (from fuse) going to the components (Branch Circuit).
3. Put an alligator clip on the the Multimeter lead going to the Stick PIN.

DONT UNINTENTIONALLY GROUND OR SHORT THE STICK PIN or DAMAGE THE HARNESS.

4. With the lead (hot wire) lifted to any component NOT GROUNDED you should see very high resistance to ground 10K Ohms min (NO CONTINUITY),

OR RESTATED; CONTINUITY WILL GO AWAY WHEN YOU HAVE LIFTED THE GROUNDED LEAD.

TAKE YOUR TIME, Make a drawing of what you are doing, record all values of what you have checked, and be methodical in your approach, you can solve the mystery!!

Feel free to ask more question if you run in to other problems.

HOPE THIS HELPS
BEST OF LUCK TO YOU
 
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 09:14 AM
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Try jumping it. I was up north a while back and while it was very cold
( to me anyway ) My truck would spin and spin but not crank. I could put a set of cables on it and it would hit the first turn!




The bodys are the same so I wouldnt see where there would be a problem with him posring this here?
 
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