What to do first for mud bogging
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: South East Alaska
What to do first for mud bogging
I am going to race my Bronco this spring/summer in the mud bogs. I have several items that I know I need to address and would like to see what order I should make the changes.
1. My Bronco’s rear end is on Blocks. I'm looking at springs that have the 4.5 inches of lift from Bronco Graveyard
2. I need attachment points for towing the rig out. I’m thinking about having my son fabricate something that would hide under the bumper and attach to the frame so I could have a hook or clevis front and rear.
3. I have an open differential and stock gearing.
4. The tires are Cooper Discoverer A/T's 35x12.5 and I would like them to be the TSL Boggers. I'm thinking 33x12.5 might preform better.
I don't have the time or money to take care of the whole list by May. So, I would like to take care of any 'key items' first.
Thanks,
DrDuktayp
1. My Bronco’s rear end is on Blocks. I'm looking at springs that have the 4.5 inches of lift from Bronco Graveyard
2. I need attachment points for towing the rig out. I’m thinking about having my son fabricate something that would hide under the bumper and attach to the frame so I could have a hook or clevis front and rear.
3. I have an open differential and stock gearing.
4. The tires are Cooper Discoverer A/T's 35x12.5 and I would like them to be the TSL Boggers. I'm thinking 33x12.5 might preform better.
I don't have the time or money to take care of the whole list by May. So, I would like to take care of any 'key items' first.
Thanks,
DrDuktayp
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2004
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solid axle
4ish more inchs of lift
one ton axles
5.13 gears front and rear both lockd
38.5 boggers
and mad engine upgrades
get the axles and gears first then lift then tires and then engine upgrades
dont worry it will only cost more then 4 grand
4ish more inchs of lift
one ton axles
5.13 gears front and rear both lockd
38.5 boggers
and mad engine upgrades
get the axles and gears first then lift then tires and then engine upgrades
dont worry it will only cost more then 4 grand
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
Gears should for sure be first. I would run a 4.88 or 5.13 so you can really spin those tires. Boggers are heavy and really grab which will cause power loss. You will need to figure a way for fresh air to get to the carb as well and water proof everything you can under the hood.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
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From: Louisiana
From what I've heard those leaf springs on Bronco Graveyard your talking about are cra*. They sag after a while and axle wrap is unbelieveable.
I was looking at getting some, but that quickly changed my mind.
But gears and lockers are a must for mud. Then tires, wheels, lift, and then engine.
I was looking at getting some, but that quickly changed my mind.
But gears and lockers are a must for mud. Then tires, wheels, lift, and then engine.
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Freshman User
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From: South East Alaska
Hooks, Gears, Lockers-got it, Thanks
Thanks guys. I'll probably do the gears this year and maybe again next year. I kind of hate putting money into the TTB but I doubt I can make the front solid by May. It sounds like the 9" is fine in the rear . I think I'll go with 4.88 gears and work toward lockers front and rear. Rear for sure by May.
thanks again,
Drduktayp
thanks again,
Drduktayp
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
Likes: 5
From: Louisiana
If you don't plan of driving it on the road, weld the sider gears or just put in a spool. For the rear at least.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: SE Texas
You can run in the stock class with 33" tires and do O.K. I would get good mud tires #1, then your tow hooks #2. IF you have open axles front and rear, a locker or spool will make a big difference in back.Something free you can do is remove as much weight as you can. I took off the hardtop, external spare tire carrier and pulled out the rear bench seat, shaving off about 200 pounds right there.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: South East Alaska
I ordered gears and lockers today
Today, I ordered 4.88's and detroit lockers for both axles from Randy's Ring & Pinion. It was fairly spendy but I think it was well spent. I will still need tires by May or start the season with my current 'All Terrain' tires. The local tire shop quoted me 1200 for 4 TSL's. OUCH! I may have to mail order and have Chevron install them.
Thanks everyone,
DrDuktayp
Thanks everyone,
DrDuktayp
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Freshman User
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From: South East Alaska
Tires and Rims
Originally Posted by MBBFord
What size tires are you going to run? I ordered my 36" irocs with mickey thomson rims mounted and balance and shipped to my house for less than that.
What offset did you choose?
DrDuktayp
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Caracas, Venezuela
If you want better performance, regarding tires, you should use oversized chain tires (military tires), rim 16 should work just fine, Michelin sell those in Venezuela (don´t know if they´re available in the US), they are better because they´re tall and give you more ground clearance, also, they´re thin, wich results in a lot less resistance when you´re inside the mud pit, they also are ligther, taking less power from your engine, the grip is also good, you should try them.
Last edited by Encho; Jan 12, 2006 at 10:04 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Louisiana
If you mean backspacing then I got a 15x10 with 3 5/8" backspacing.
Offset and backspacing are 2 different things and offset can basically do the same thing as back spacing, but what actually happens with offset wheels is the middle of the wheel is either shifted negative or possative and the more it is changed the more wear and pressure ball joints and other things have to take up.
(most rims company's don't give you a choice on BS or Offset they just come with a set one from the factory)
Offset and backspacing are 2 different things and offset can basically do the same thing as back spacing, but what actually happens with offset wheels is the middle of the wheel is either shifted negative or possative and the more it is changed the more wear and pressure ball joints and other things have to take up.
(most rims company's don't give you a choice on BS or Offset they just come with a set one from the factory)
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: SE Texas
Wow, $1200 for 4 tires!!! Go to Interco's website and check for a direct dealer to get a better price. The shipping charge is prolly what's adding so much to the cost. As far as backspacing on the wheels, I run a 3.5" bs, try to keep it under 4" bs. And yeah, a tall skinny tire works much better in mud. SO, a 36x12.50 is a better choice than say a 36x14.50.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
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From: Louisiana
a skinny tire isn't always better. No where I wheel, most of the time yes skinny is better, but some places need those wide tires to "float" on the mud like having some big ballons. Skinny tires are ment to dig down and get to the bottom which is where the traction is found, but sometimes there is no bottom.
But yes don't go over 4" backspacing for a 15x10 wheel, and 4.5" for a 15x12
But yes don't go over 4" backspacing for a 15x10 wheel, and 4.5" for a 15x12