I had to have one of my sleeve's changed this time on my frontend alignment on the right side. What happens that causes them to be replaced?

Thanks in advance.

 

Adjusting sleeve?

 

"Adjusting sleeve?"

Yes. The old one wouldn't allow for the adjustment needed. Why is that?

 

Usually overzealous mechanics tightening the end screws with an impact wrench instead of a socket or boxed end. They just need to be tight. When they are super tightened, they collapse making any small adjustment for the toe a bear to do. Also the screws do is keep it from turning in the sleeve.

 

Would they just need to be replaced after 5 alignments or so?

 

I would say that they may have flexed enough to warrant a replacement. Especially if they have been overtightened a few times.

 

My '99 got an alignment about two months ago and I noticed the steering wheel was pretty far off center afterwards. I took it back to the dealer and they corrected it MOSTLY. It is still a very slight bit off center, but I can live with it. My question is, how the heck did this happen? I've never had it happen b/4 and I'm just curious what caused it. If it is mechanic error, perhaps I should go to one of the 'big truck' alignment shops in my area for the next alignment.

I think I need another alignment now as I just finished replacing the front ball joints upper and low on both sides and also the axle stubs and all seals. It seems to wander a bit more now.

Thanks for any thoughts!

 

The cause of the steering wheel not centered is due to sloppy techs not centering the gear, before doing the alignment. The caster/camber must be set, the the toe corrected and then the caster/camber reset. It may take five or six tries to get it right. Most techs will set the caster camber once, then try to correct the toe. This is wrong. They rely on their computer driven machines to give give them the answers instead of using their eyes and their head to fix the problem. I have seen some of them do an alignment without checking the tire pressure, how much fuel is in it and the bed with a load of junk in it.

The proper way is is one half tank of fuel, nothing in the bed, good balanced and even worn tires to the proper pressure plus 10 pounds and two one-hundred pound weights (one in the drivers seat and one in the drivers floorboard).

I know a few of you are wondering why plus 10 pounds. This will make the tire a little more round and will set it up in the middle of the tire (for caster adjustment only). When you do the toe, drop the pressure to the proper amount. This is my experience from repairing wrecks with damaged frames.

One other thing is, when you take it in, tell the tech what is happening. Does it drive like a drunk (wonder) or pull? What happens when you apply the brakes in a panic? Does it seem loose or tight? These answers will let the tech know what to look for.

I have an 03 Taurus that was just screwy to drive (very loose). After several trips to the stealership and then to a local Goodyear shop, I requested the Goodyear shop to let me set it up. The specs were on the high side of the alignment charts which is actually better.

After some serious discussions with the Goodyear tech, we figured out that by running three extra pounds of air in the rear tires, the loose problem went away. Sometimes it just takes a good discussion to solve the problem. The Taurus now has 120K miles on it and the problems has not returned. I make sure to check the tire pressure and correct it after every service or rotation.

Just one point to remember, the tire pressure listed on the tire is not what the MFG suggest. It is the total load pressure the tire can withstand. My suggestions is the door sticker plus three to four pounds in each up to the max if you are carrying a load. If you have the deisel or the V10, they are quite heavy. You may need to run lesser air in the rear tires than in the front for drivability.

 

PMASLEY: Thanks for the information. I have rarely had alignment issues in the past with any of our SD trucks. When we do, I always make a point of letting the dealership (as least the service guys whom I assume tell the technician actually doing the work) what the issue is in my opinion.

With this truck, it went in for alignment after a month of towing excessively heavy loads with heavy payloads at the same time. When we were finished, the front end was 'all over the place.' Alignment was done, rod ends replaced, and steering gearbox replaced. When I got the truck back it drove great, but the steering wheel was way off center. I took it back and they fixed it, more or less. After a month or two now of very little driving and no loads, I noticed the wheel is still off a bit (I think I just notice it more - I don't think it has actually changed). I did do new ball joints and axle-stubs on both sides up front, so I think it is ready for another alignment (suddenly got very loose again). I'm just hoping they can fix the wheel center issue.



Thanks again for the advice - I'll be sure to talk with the technician.

 

If you were hauling a very heavy load and left the weight in over several days (same applies to towing a heavy goose neck trailer, leaving it hooked up without letting down the support), you may have sprung the rear springs. This will throw the alignment off and make the tuck seem very loose. Check your ride height. Sounds like the butt is sagging (any model with lots and lots of mileage and use). You may need to add a helper spring in the rear pack or you may have deflated the rear gas shocks (it happens). The gas shocks do add a little lift. My guess is I figure the rear springs are flattened.

 

Good thinking! I forgot about it, but we did break two of the rear leaf springs on the passenger side. I discovered this when I noticed a vibration in the truck at highway speeds that felt like rough road - but wasn't affected by the road surface. Upon inspection, I found the two cracked springs. The dealer wanted something like $800 to replace them, I removed the spring "pack" and took it to the same spring company used by the dealer. $95 for the springs and "reassembly" and about 2 hours of my time to remove and replace it. The vibration is gone.

However, I did not check the shocks - sounds like that could be a problem and should be addressed prior to the next alignment.

Thanks again!

 

It takes about 3 minutes to do your own center the wheel on these trucks. Loosen the coupler on the drag link comming off the pitman arm and turn it until the wheel is right. Its really not that hard to do and it doesn't change anything else.


Dick

 

99F: It could if not properly done. If the gear is centered, this is one of the ways to correct it, providing the toein is correct. There is too much in the steering geometry for a layman to attempt repairs on their own without the right gauges.

 

Yes I know I'm talking about 1/4 turn off or so provided everything is adj properly.
Such as when a lift is put on and the track rod moves the axle left or right the steering wheel may be a tad off. Tow doesn't change neither does camber or caster with leaf springs in most cases.


Dick

 

It may take several tries to get it right. After doing my last alignment (changed tire sizes), the steering wheel was off about 1/4 of a turn to the left. I could not figure this out as the caster/camber and toe did not need any changes (even though with the wider tires, I did turn the toe in a little bit (1/16 each side) on both tires). I did notice that the left front tire wore a little uneven. With the tire change, I changed the front shocks (little bouncy). The only thing I could think of was that the gas shocks raised the front enough to change the steering angle.