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How much to replace ball joints?

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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 02:10 PM
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Question How much to replace ball joints?

I'm looking at buying a used 1990, 4x4 F250 that's in need of new front ball joints. How much should I expect to pay for labor and parts to replace them? (I've read DIY guides and it's a bit above my expertise, especially since there are upper and lower. )

Thanks!
 

Last edited by outatime257; Jan 5, 2006 at 02:25 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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What axle does it have? My 95 F150 w/ dana44 cost $300, upper and lower both sides. Now, a few years later and more knowledgable, I would do it myself. This was in MI.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 04:14 PM
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Dana 44, Dana 50, doesn't matter much.

It's not hard to do, really. It's just a lot of work, but nothing difficult. I would expect to pay around $400 a side.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 04:45 PM
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not going to be cheap and your not going to be getting what your paying for...ive been charged for ball joints that never even were replaced, there could be other things they find and rape u even more, use cheap crappy parts that wont last long, screw something up and not tell u about it or charge u to fix it...i have done it on 2wd and was not to difficult and could probably be done with removing the bearings so if u do it that way all u have to do is loosen the upper bj and remove the nut on the lower...then use the bj seperator tool to get it apart and lastly remove and install new ones
 
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 05:13 PM
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Depending where you live is a big factor on the cost.The shop I work at $300-350 for both sides (labor) that includes replacing axle u-joints and alignment.Parts can vary alot,depending on what they use.Moog balljoints "list" at around $125 a side.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 12:03 PM
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just went thru this on my 95 1/2 ton,2wd, parts, moog/enhanced[greasable]50-60 per side, 120 total all 4, 4wd not much more, most of the internet suppliers ship free on orders over 50 dollar .......
 
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 01:27 PM
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I don't think the 4x4 can be done without removing the wheel as was mentioned above. I could be wrong....

Anyway, the parts are going to be the least of the cost. What starts adding up is what else they find once they open it up. You may want to (or need to) replace the universal joints, the brakes, the wheel bearings, tie rod ends, etc. Since you are going through the effort to do all this, you might as well do it right. Before I did it myself, I got a quote of around $400 "if nothing else was wrong". For one side.

What might be better is to have the current owner have the balljoints done. Unless you are getting it for well below book value, the price of the truck should include ball joints that are safe.

You could do it yourself with a few tools, some time and the advice you can find on this forum. I did mine last April and the people on here are a great help.

Good Luck.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitramjr
I don't think the 4x4 can be done without removing the wheel as was mentioned above. I could be wrong....

Anyway, the parts are going to be the least of the cost. What starts adding up is what else they find once they open it up. You may want to (or need to) replace the universal joints, the brakes, the wheel bearings, tie rod ends, etc. Since you are going through the effort to do all this, you might as well do it right. Before I did it myself, I got a quote of around $400 "if nothing else was wrong". For one side.

What might be better is to have the current owner have the balljoints done. Unless you are getting it for well below book value, the price of the truck should include ball joints that are safe.

You could do it yourself with a few tools, some time and the advice you can find on this forum. I did mine last April and the people on here are a great help.

Good Luck.
He's right. I had someone quote me 400 bux for ball joints on one side of my 94 F150... In my mind that's foolish money to spend because the value is not there. I did both sides myself for about $800 and some time. There are a lot of parts on a truck this old that you "might as well" or "have to" replace while your there, I did the list below:

4 ball joints
2 tie rod ends
2 radius arm bushings
2 new stub shaft u joints
2 new rotors/hubs
4 new wheel bearings
2 new spindle shaft bearings
2 new heat shields
2 new calipers/pads
2 new brake hoses
1 new brake lines (front crossover)

Plus I cleaned everything on the front suspension/axles, wire brushed and painted the frame and some other items, etc. while I was at it.

Front end alignment, about $100

Having a shop do that work would cost well in the thousands of $$ and any or all of those items "could" need attention while they are in there. I am keeping my 94 (bought it new) but if I was looking for a truck I'd walk away from a 4x4 that needs front end work unless the price was extremely low.

Have the seller replace them.

SamF
 
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 11:41 PM
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I just replaced my ball joins on my dana44 front end (1995 F-150) a while back. I bought lifetime warranty greasable upper and lower ball joints(both sides), u-joints, dust seals, etc for about $125. I then had a mechanic (whom i know and trust) install everything including packing the bearings, etc for abount $150. Then the aligment at a tire shop was $40. The total was $315 give or take a few bucks. I would say buy the parts yourself, find a decent mechanic to put them in and you could easily stay under $400 for both sides. If you get charged over a grand for someone to do it, they areally sticking it to you.(or at least they would be if you lived in the midwest). I think one of the biggest money savers is usually buying the parts yourself so you know what you are getting.

Front end alignment, about $100
That sounds outragiously high. There are three tire shops in my town, all charge between $40-$50 for alignment
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Ford4x4-JD70AB


That sounds outragiously high. There are three tire shops in my town, all charge between $40-$50 for alignment
Regional pricing varies I guess. It was $74.95 for the alignment plus $20 to flush the PS Pump (my request) add sales tax and your right at a Franklin. A bit higher than most around here in PA but Mickey's is the best there is when it come to front ends...
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 02:12 AM
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Question

While you are talking about Ball Joints, The greaseable type on mine are not really greasable unless you pull the hub and drive shaft which I did, but I have to ask; Are all 4X4's like that or is there something I'm not seeing?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Ford4x4-JD70AB
I think one of the biggest money savers is usually buying the parts yourself so you know what you are getting.
You may get awat with that with a mechanic friend or in a small town but most mechanics mark-up the parts 10% or more to cover overhead and profit. They may not appreciate you undercutting them on the parts and make it up in additional labor.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 03:36 PM
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Do it yourself...Not too hard

I would have to agree with those who have suggested doing it yourself. You will save a boat load of money, and you obtain invaluable knowledge on how your front end works. A couple of years ago I rebuilt my whole Dana 44 IFS (Except for the differential). All new ball joints, U joints, seals, bearings, etc. I had no experience at all, except knowing my way around tools.

It's not too hard, just get a good manual on your truck, it shows nice diagrams of how everything goes together. You can even take pictures while you disassemble just in case. But you will save money, and will know what you are getting, and that you aren't being ripped off.

BTW, Here in the west where I live, its common for a four wheel alignement to be $75-100. Ball joint replacement was quoted to me at $289.00 per side!!! Ouch.

Anyway, good luck with whatever you decide.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by smecomark1
While you are talking about Ball Joints, The greaseable type on mine are not really greasable unless you pull the hub and drive shaft which I did, but I have to ask; Are all 4X4's like that or is there something I'm not seeing?
The ones I put in mine have a 90 degree grease joint on them, so you can get the gun in there even with everything still assembled. There really nice, that way. The lower ones of course, are greaseable without the 90 degree fitting. You can get those fittings at a hardware store, like Lowes or Home Depot, but my upper joints came with them.
 
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