I installed the crane roller conversion kit which swaps out the stock fulcrums to roller fulcrums and uses the stock rockers. its a cleveland 2v, I couldnt find any way to make the oil deflectors work on this setup, has anyone else done this setup? the reason I ask is I have what sounds like every lifter in my engine rattling at around 2400-2800 rpm when I hold the car at speed, not accel or decel. only when cruising. could this be caused by the oil deflectors? could all of my lifters just be bad. it has done it since my rebuild. they were summit house lifters. when I use a stick to pin point the sound it sounds like it is under the manifold. the motor has good oil psi and has about 8000 miles on it and it hasnt gotten louder or quieter. please help. thanks
Shane

 

there is two things it could be,(1 valves not adjusted right,readjust-check) (2 could possibly be a manifold leak...hope that helps-ff59 btw,there is a machine process where you can have the pedestal guides machined off and use true roller rockers,pushrod guideplates,it costs a little more initally but works much better...

 

which would most likely cause that if it were misadjusted? to tight or not tight enough? I know it isnt a manifold leak. and there pedestal type so there not adjustable except for shimming up. I know that the full roller system is better but money situations prevent that hahaha.

 

If I had to guess they would be too loose. Too tight, and they would probably bind and bend push rods, which could also cause problems.

What oil weight are you running and what is your oil pressure at the RPM where the problem occurs? Either way, I would say you need to recheck the valve adjustments. I'm wondering if you needed different length push rods with your conversion, or did it require stock push rods?

 

I run 30 wieght oil, the pressure is at 45-50 psi, the install didnt say it required different pushrods. would using the original rocker arms possibly cause this? can the rocker arms wear enough to make enough difference to efffect it? also I read that some people have had the lifters break apart on them. could this be the cause or would it be much worse if that had happened? I am also a little dumb in the area of valve adjustments since ive only had positive stop rockers in any of my vehicles. how do you check the valve lash on them is there a tool? or do you just finger them around when the pushrod is at the base of the cam? thanks for all the info so far guys.
Shane

 

valve lash is for solid lifters, i think you want to check "lifter preload"? it's pretty easy, set up to #1 TDC and loosen the #1 intake rocker. now tighten it back to being close to getting ready to touch the pushrod. lightly roll the pushrod back and forth between your fingers as you very slowly turn the rocker bolt tighter. at a point you will feel the pushrod want to stop turning between your fingers, this is 0 lash. the rest of how much the bolt compresses the lifter plunger is lifter preload. from the 0 lash point try to accurately determine how far you tighten the bolt. the bolt is 5/16" x 18 threads per inch, 1" divided by 18 threads is .05555555-", or about .055". so 1 full turn of the rocker bolt preloads the lifter plunger about .055". divided .055" by 4 and we find that 1/4 turn of the rocker bolt will preload the lifter plunger .013888-", or about .014", and 1/8 turn will preload the lifter plunger about .007". if the bolt turned 3/4 of a turn, the preload is about .0416". if the bolt turned 1/2 a turn the preload would be about .0275". i would just go by 1/8 turns, like if the bolt tightened between 1/2 and 3/4 turn that would be 5/8 of a turn. figure .00694" for each 1/8 turn that the bolt tightens so the preload for 5/8 of a turn would be about .03472", or almost .035".

so anyway, you do both of the #1 rockers on #1 TDC, then you turn the crank 90 degrees by hand with a 15/16" socket on the crank bolt. now you are in position to do the next cylinder in the firing order, turn the crank 90* and do the next cylinder in the firing order. not the next cylinder!!!! the next cylinder in the firing order!!!

Crane makes shims you can use to lessen the amount of preload on each rocker separately, you could make your own shims too.

 

WOW. thanks that is very clear to me know, I never understood how to do that, thanks I will try that and see what happens. what if it is to loose how do you determine what size of rod you need?

 

The crane instructions specify 1/2 to 3/4 turn past zero, I went 5/8 turn and called it good. I went with full roller rockers though.