2000 Explorer Brake problem
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2000 Explorer Brake problem
When I apply the brakes it seems normal untill you slow down and come to an almost complete stop, then the pedal seems to leak off and makes a groaning noise. Fluid levals are OK.
I hesitate to think it is the master cylinder because I just replaced the pads and rotors front and back. I didn't have this problem before I replaced them. Although I could be wrong. I did loosen the bleeding nipple as I squeezed the calipers back together so that makes me think I got air in the line. Besides the bleed off when I am almost stopped, they work great. They don't do it at all if I brake relatively hard.
Any suggestions?
I hesitate to think it is the master cylinder because I just replaced the pads and rotors front and back. I didn't have this problem before I replaced them. Although I could be wrong. I did loosen the bleeding nipple as I squeezed the calipers back together so that makes me think I got air in the line. Besides the bleed off when I am almost stopped, they work great. They don't do it at all if I brake relatively hard.
Any suggestions?
Tuned
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Does the pedal go towards the floor or does it come back at you (get hard).
If going toward the floor it almost has to be a master cyl / leak problem.
If coming up (getting hard) probably the anti lock kicking in, might have done something to the wheel sensors when doing the brakes?
Even too much crud there can do it.
If going toward the floor it almost has to be a master cyl / leak problem.
If coming up (getting hard) probably the anti lock kicking in, might have done something to the wheel sensors when doing the brakes?
Even too much crud there can do it.
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Yes, the pedal does go to the floor. After what you said and what I have read, I believe it is probably the master cylinder. When I am sitting still and put pressure on the pedal it eases to the floor. Master Cylinder, right?
Tuned
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Being that it started after the front pads I will guess that when squeezing the calipers back that some of the fluid went back into the MS (even though you opened the bleeder). Could be that you got a little crud in the MS.
You could try bleeding it some (at the MS too) and see if you might flush it out.
Personally I like to suck out the old brake fluid and replace it before bleeding so you start out putting fresh fluid in from the start.
If that doesn't do it I would think a MS would be the fix.
As always be careful to not get the fluid on paint or plastic or you will hate yourself later. Not to mention when you get it in your eye it's like nothing else. I keep a jug of water around when bleeding.
I actually had a booster (with a slave clyinder) on a F700 do a similar thing, if you hit the brakes it stopped but if you eased up any then stepped on it again the pedal would start rising and no brakes. That is a little different system than yours.....
You could try bleeding it some (at the MS too) and see if you might flush it out.
Personally I like to suck out the old brake fluid and replace it before bleeding so you start out putting fresh fluid in from the start.
If that doesn't do it I would think a MS would be the fix.
As always be careful to not get the fluid on paint or plastic or you will hate yourself later. Not to mention when you get it in your eye it's like nothing else. I keep a jug of water around when bleeding.
I actually had a booster (with a slave clyinder) on a F700 do a similar thing, if you hit the brakes it stopped but if you eased up any then stepped on it again the pedal would start rising and no brakes. That is a little different system than yours.....
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
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I would (if you have a way) suck out the old and refill first.
If no way to suck it out you can start bleeding at the MS, just have someone pump the pedal then hold it down and then you loosen the line and let some out.
You just want to tighten the nut before the fluid stops coming out, that way you don't get any air in. Just be sure the pumper knows not to let up til you say so. Do that several times and you will get the old fluid out, then before it is dry refill it. Should be 2 lines, do both.
After you get some clean fluid in it do the front calipers the same way only using the bleeders. Doing the rear isn't a bad idea either, and hopefully it will straighten it up, if not you really haven't lost anything, you just have clean fluid for the future.
I usually do it to anything I buy and every couple years after that and rarely have any brake part go bad. Not a bad maintenance thing.
Remember to keep it off the truck and out of your eyes, keep water handy to flush any off.
Once upon a time I had what was a fairly nice car come in and the owner had been trying to bleed the brakes. He had gotten it all over the fender, door and plastic steering wheel. You could see and feel his fingerprints on both, just ruined it.
If no way to suck it out you can start bleeding at the MS, just have someone pump the pedal then hold it down and then you loosen the line and let some out.
You just want to tighten the nut before the fluid stops coming out, that way you don't get any air in. Just be sure the pumper knows not to let up til you say so. Do that several times and you will get the old fluid out, then before it is dry refill it. Should be 2 lines, do both.
After you get some clean fluid in it do the front calipers the same way only using the bleeders. Doing the rear isn't a bad idea either, and hopefully it will straighten it up, if not you really haven't lost anything, you just have clean fluid for the future.
I usually do it to anything I buy and every couple years after that and rarely have any brake part go bad. Not a bad maintenance thing.
Remember to keep it off the truck and out of your eyes, keep water handy to flush any off.
Once upon a time I had what was a fairly nice car come in and the owner had been trying to bleed the brakes. He had gotten it all over the fender, door and plastic steering wheel. You could see and feel his fingerprints on both, just ruined it.
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Well, I sucked out all of the old brake fluid out of the MC..added new and bled the brakes front and rear. At first it seemed to work, but after about 10 stops it started doing the same thing but not as bad. But now ( Tuesday..I did the work on Sunday) it is back to the same way it was before. So, I guess I will replace the MC next weekend.
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