Let me give you a run down. 2001 7.3 and I was tring to hook up my BD X monitor. So before I did that I was going to unhook the batteries BUT I wanted to remove my hypertech program because I was going to put it on ebay, so I removed the program and all seamed well. I then unhooked the batteries and went inside the firewall and removed the wire block from the firewall , its the one with only one bolt holding it to the firewall beneth the master cylinder. I did that found the correct orange with black tracer wire and tapped into it ( trans temp wire), then put the block back on the firewall and tightened the bolt. I then did all the wiring to make the x monitor hot , one hot wire and one neutral then hooked up the batteries once that was done. I turned the key it fired and ran but when I press my gas pedal, NOTHING. where should I start, you think I pulled out a wire from that block or by unhooking the batteries did that set something off?? Im not sure, oh my service engine light is on too... Man I hate this kind of crap..

 

I would check the wire block for for bent pins or pulled wires. The throttle is controled electronically so i would have to say your problem is in there somewhere. Good luck. I hate crap like that to!!!

 

I would pull the PCM plug back out and make sure you did not bend a pin to the PCM when re-installing. The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is on pin 89, a Gray/White wire, make sure that one is not damaged.

EDIT: I keep stumbling over you lancer

 

I agree, pull the big plug out and carefully examine everything.

 

Well Im getting good at taking this apart anyways!!! LOL. I took it back out and got down there as much as I could took a long look. All the pins look good to me I think that is good BUT if its a wire I am not sure how the %#@& I am going to get into there to fix it. What would you guys recommend to make it a little easier??? Hey can that bolt come all the way out of the connector, the connector has a black cap and the bolt holds it there if thats off I may be able to just push the desired wire back into place. Let me know what you think.ALSO does anyone have a good diagram of the pcm connector so I can really identify the bad wire/location??

 

If the pins are all straight and not pushed back into the connector there is no reason to dis-assemble the connector. I'd put it back on, making sure it is on square and tight, and if reseating it doen't help, then go back through the wiring you installed and make sure everything is where it's supposed to be.

 

Thanks for the help guys as I said this stuff drives me nuts!! Again if anyone knows how or if that bolt can come all the way out so I can just remove the black plastic pcm connector cap ( what I will call it) and just leave the actual connector connected into the firewall that would be helpfull. When I took the connector out originally I had to manuaver it around a few times so I could see postion 37 to find my wire I needed. I bet that when turning it I pulled on the gray black wire and dislodged it somehow. I know I didnt cut any wires because I only used a t-tap connector and no cutting was needed, but I did have to pry some of those wires apart to expose the wire needed for the trans temp.It has to be pulled out of the pcm connector, hope I can get to it. Again let me know if that bolt can come all the way out I dont want to pry it apart and do any damage.

 

That bolt will not come out, it's held in with a circlip on the inside. At least that's how the plug was for my '95 gasser, which was mounted in the exact same location.

 

Ok Kwick, Cookie, Guzzle let me tell you what I found. I will say at this point it is not working yet but do you think this could be the problem. I took all apart, did a very close inspection and all looked good. I located the gray/white postion 89 wire on the connector it looked good. I did a continuity check by putting a small wire in the pin location and on the other side if the connector I went back a few inches and stuck my tester in there and then other end on the wire at the connector and it beeped as it should so that was good connection thru the connector. Believe it or not the fuse panel under the hood in front of the master cylinder had the number 7 position 5 amp fuse blown, why I dont know I had the batteries unhooked. All other fuses are ok, do you think that friggen 5 amp is the culprit??? I looked at these before and thought they were good but I was wrong (pains me to say that) LOL. I need to get some fuses and will do so asap but thought I would ask your valued opnions. Thanks guys beers on me for the help.

 

Fuse 7, 5A (battery fuse box) on a 2001 is showing as the +12v going to the regulator in the alternator. (?) I don't know why that would keep the throttle from responding. I just can't make a connection and will have to scratch my head on this one while you pickup more fuses.

 

Recheck fuses 15 and 19 in the central junction box (in the cab). Make sure it isn't a PCM or IVS fuse.

 

Fuse is not it guys, I cant believe with having good continuity and all that the gray/white can be bad unless it is beyond where I can get to, but I didnt pull on that harness that hard. All the pins on the PCM looked equal in length and not one bent. I unhooked the x monitor to see possibly and that didnt change anything. Do you guys think that while removing the hypertech program that something could have went haywire??? I was thinking of charging my batteries hook up the hypertech and run through the whole thing again to see if that changes anything. As stated before I hate this #%&@ !!!

 

Can the PPIII pull codes? I suppose we should consider the possibility that the throttle position switch just happened to fail at the same time.

 

There is a connector on your gas pedal that you could check for continuity. Did you try and take the mod out and see what it would do?

 

I just reininstalled the hypertech program, and the result was the same. So I can rule that out which is a good this. I may make a jumper wire and stick it in the gray/white at the peddle and runit through the firewall for better access and then pull off the pcm connector and do a continuity check from the pin side of the connector all the way to the peddle. That should tell me if the wire is good all the way. Do all the wires from the peddle connector go all the way to the pcm connector at the fire wall. If so I could do a check of each wire one at a time to tell which could be bad.