Wait To Start Lights up for a split second...
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: Firebaugh/Coalinga CA.
Wait To Start Lights up for a split second...
89 F250 Diesel 7.3L.
Wait to start light has been only lighting up for about a second, then it clicks for what seems like for ever under the hood. All the while my amp gauge is flickering. I have noticed that the truck is a little harder to start when its very cold outside, but when it has started once for the day, it isnt so bad.
When i bought the truck me and my father put in some ac/delco glow plugs, could this be the problem, i know i know that i need the motorcraft plugs, and i didnt know that then. So do i just take a test light to each glow plug, with the wires connected to see if they work, and replace the ones that are bad, or do you recommend just replacing all of the glowplugs?
The relay is doing its job, i think because of the clicking, it did this even when the WTS light worked.
Mike
Wait to start light has been only lighting up for about a second, then it clicks for what seems like for ever under the hood. All the while my amp gauge is flickering. I have noticed that the truck is a little harder to start when its very cold outside, but when it has started once for the day, it isnt so bad.
When i bought the truck me and my father put in some ac/delco glow plugs, could this be the problem, i know i know that i need the motorcraft plugs, and i didnt know that then. So do i just take a test light to each glow plug, with the wires connected to see if they work, and replace the ones that are bad, or do you recommend just replacing all of the glowplugs?
The relay is doing its job, i think because of the clicking, it did this even when the WTS light worked.
Mike
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 477
Likes: 1
From: florida
make sure your connectors to the glow plugs are good. i had two bad one, i replaced all the ac's with motorcraft and it still did the same thing. i used the blue round connectors and the work just fine. i bought them from napa.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
You probably have one or two bad G/P's, you could check them with a test lite or meter but being as they are not BERU I would replace them all. Clean around the seat (compressed air) then remove VERY carefully, you do not want to break a burnt/swollen tip off (not good in the combustion chamber). Use never sieze on the threads when in stalling, do not over tighten.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 743
Likes: 2
From: MI -- farmboy
Only use motorcraft/beru glowplugs. Autolite is NOT the same, I dont care what the kid at the autoparts tells you.
Test for power at the glowplug. I have had a problem with corroded terminals at the controller. Check all connections for corrosion and twist and tug on them. If it comes off, it was bad. WTS shouuld stay n for 5 to 15 seconds, depending upon how cold the motor is. Controller should click once when engaged, then you will hear it kick out and it a few times after the WTS light goes out. The glowplug system is fairly simple. Key switch feeds power to the controller, with feeds power to the glowplugs. Take a test light and work yourself backwards. There are several good step by step posts in this section if you do a search.
Test for power at the glowplug. I have had a problem with corroded terminals at the controller. Check all connections for corrosion and twist and tug on them. If it comes off, it was bad. WTS shouuld stay n for 5 to 15 seconds, depending upon how cold the motor is. Controller should click once when engaged, then you will hear it kick out and it a few times after the WTS light goes out. The glowplug system is fairly simple. Key switch feeds power to the controller, with feeds power to the glowplugs. Take a test light and work yourself backwards. There are several good step by step posts in this section if you do a search.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Make sure the connections to the glow plugs are corrosion free and clean. The system works based on electrical resistance for how long to power the plugs. Bad connections will do that. I thought I had bad plugs on mine, so I tested all of them by pulling the wires and holding a test light to the ends of the plugs. When I put the wires back on, the connections were so bad the wts light just flashed on real quick, then clicking like you were saying. I replaced the connectors, just cut the wires, stripped the ends and crimped new ones on. think it took me like 15 minutes and cost 2 dollars, problem solved and it works like a charm.
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