Head work needed?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 3
From: Eustis FL
Head work needed?
Could someone have a look in my gallery and tell me what they think of the pics of my D0VE C heads? One combustion chamber is pictured twice from different angles. There is some pitting on this chamber, in the quench area, like maybe a piston came apart. Will this affect runnability when I install the heads, like maybe create a bad hot spot and ping? Or, maybe I should just have the heads machined down to make them smooth again before installing? (I am having them rebuilt, at a minimum, with valves and seats ground).
I don't have a lot to spend on this job, so I won't be doing any fancy port work yet, just polishing combustion chambers. I may put a cam in, so I have to decide whether I should upgrade the springs and get a bigger cam than originally planned (simple RV cam).
Any ideas appreciated. Engine runs strong, and I have installed a true roller timing chain at straight up on the crank sprocket. I want more power all around. It's a 76 F150 Supercab Trailer Special with 460.
Mark
I don't have a lot to spend on this job, so I won't be doing any fancy port work yet, just polishing combustion chambers. I may put a cam in, so I have to decide whether I should upgrade the springs and get a bigger cam than originally planned (simple RV cam).
Any ideas appreciated. Engine runs strong, and I have installed a true roller timing chain at straight up on the crank sprocket. I want more power all around. It's a 76 F150 Supercab Trailer Special with 460.
Mark
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
just have them surfaced when you do the valve job and that should take care of it, but have them remove the smallest and equal amount on both heads to get them flat.
If you do any port work on your own work on the exhaust port that is where the big block ford heads are the most restrictive.
And on the cam make sure you get one with a split duration with atleast 10 deg more duration on the exhaust side. Also if your going wiht a bigger than stock cam I would get a kit or atleast buy the springs for that cam, your stock springs probably aren't strong enough to start with, and have most likely lost some of thier strength over the years.
If you do any port work on your own work on the exhaust port that is where the big block ford heads are the most restrictive.
And on the cam make sure you get one with a split duration with atleast 10 deg more duration on the exhaust side. Also if your going wiht a bigger than stock cam I would get a kit or atleast buy the springs for that cam, your stock springs probably aren't strong enough to start with, and have most likely lost some of thier strength over the years.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 3
From: Eustis FL
Yeah, I want to remove the exhaust humps in the ports, but I won't have the time to do it this time around. (and I won't pay someone else to do it).
It will become a project engine when I retire the truck from rust issues, so I will pull heads again someday if I install new pistons (and check bearings while in there)
Mark
It will become a project engine when I retire the truck from rust issues, so I will pull heads again someday if I install new pistons (and check bearings while in there)
Mark
