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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 10:40 AM
  #1  
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dvfd12
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From: Sherman, IL
CCV Mod

What are the advantages of running it to the exhaust? Is it just so you don't see the smoke or does it need the vacuum? I know most big trucks and tractors just dump it out below the motor. I was just wondering, I'm planning on doing a 6637 and the CCV mod and wanted to get your opinions.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 10:49 AM
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Just to eliminate the vapor and fumes.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 10:49 AM
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Mainly just so you don't see the smoke. There's plenty of pressure to push out any gasses without the aid of any type of vacuum.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 05:20 PM
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Last Thursday we just welded up a bung to the exhaust pipe then connected the CCV hose to it,now the fumes come from the tailpipe with the black smoke
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 05:46 PM
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Yea - and the fumes smell like oil too - not a very nice smell to have wafting up into your truck! I have my CCV run into my driver's side stack - I have not smelled it at ALL since I hooked it up like that - though you can see the oil mist wafting out when it's just idling..
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 06:24 PM
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he's right. the oil DOES stink, and alot of people ask what is burning. (smells kind of like a toaster on it's maiden voyage). i do notice at night when there are cars behind me at a stoplight, i can look down and see the CCV smoke coming out in a good flow. tap the pedal to take off and a big cloud is spewed out to the right. it seems like the lights at night amplify it, you can hardly see it during the day.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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Anyone have an idea of how to run the CCV into the exhaust WITHOUT WELDING IT?? I don't have very ready access to a welder, but would very much like to get the CCV routed into the exhaust. The smell is starting to get to me.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 07:01 PM
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dont think so. other than a clamp on type (kind of like a clamp-on pyrometer) with a bung on it, i dont think there is a way. do you have any buddies with a welder or know a shop that can run a quick bead for you? just take out the rear section of the exhaust (you can even still drive it without the piping that goes over the axle and out) and get your hole drilled and filed so that the pipe can sit at an angle. and then the shop can just tack it in there for you!
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 07:16 PM
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I've got some friends with welders, but getting them to find the time in their busy schedules is difficult. I've been trying to get one of them to fix a wheel chock for a motorcycle for several months now!!

Do you suggest that the tube go before or after the muffler (I have a straight-thru type)? Or does it really matter?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 07:52 PM
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doesn't really matter, but i left it aft-muffler, because of the heat was alot lower there than say if i put it in the extension pipe that connects to the downpipe. i wouldnt want that oil mist going through the fiberglass packing in the muffler.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 08:10 PM
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That's kind of what I was thinking after I posted that question. All that oil can't be good for the packing. I'd think some of it might get caught in the muffler. Then I've just got an oil collector.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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I believe alot of the vapors will dissipate soon as it contacts the 600+ degree exhaust gases,it'll take years and years for the BTM to fill up
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 09:02 PM
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From: Heber UT
Question

Somebody take me through the entire process please. What do I plug the hole in the intake with, after removing hose? Do I take soft or hard tubing down the side of the engine? Then do I run soft or hard hose clear back to where I attach it to the exhaust pipe? What keeps exhaust from blowing into the crank case? I need some detailed instructions! Thank you all!!!
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 09:17 PM
  #14  
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what i did for the intake plug, was a red wire nut that fit tight in the hole. first i cut off the hoogie that stuck out in the path of the air, and superglued the nut in there from the bottom, and filled the space in at the top.

for the hose, i used 1''OD 1/2''ID heater hose, that fit snugly into the elbow on the "doghouse." i mitre cut the end of the hose, and also superglued that into place. then i just led it out of the engine bay, down away from the manifold, and inside the C channel frame rail. i ran the hose around the right side of the tank, securing it by pushing it in the space between the band clamp and the tank, one in front and one in rear. right after the second clamp, i routed it over the driveshaft and then into the bung in the exhaust. the angle of the the bung actually creates a vacuum at the outlet of the bung as exhaust passes past the bung. this helps suck out the gasses in the hose. the fit at the bung/hose was tight, so i needed nothing to secure it. i had about a foot of steel pipe welded onto the exhaust, to act as a heat sink, so i wouldn't melt my hose. for the parts, i used a hose clamp, superglue, a wire nut, and 15' of hose, and a 1'' ID 1' length piece of pipe, that was actually the jackstand to our old leaf vac.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 09:42 PM
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From: Heber UT
Thumbs up

Thanks strokin it. That was what I needed. I also looked in your gallery and saw pics of the ccv pipe welded onto the exhaust pipe. This will be my next project.
 
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