'95 351W 7 MPGs!!
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'95 351W 7 MPGs!!
I hate doing this and ever since I joined FTE I swore I wouldn't post a thread about how to improve gas mileage and I had decided to live with the fact that its a brick with a beastly (IMHO) engine that likes gas.
My 1995 4x4 F-150 with E4OD and a 351W is got a calculated 7.2 MPGs using 4wd for maybe 5 miles total and then all 2wd i got 9.1 MPGs. I drive it medium, I sure don't baby it, but I don't run it to redline or burn out every chance I get. Oil was changed 2 months ago. These are american gallons, calculated using at least 3/4 tank before refilling and using MPG=odometer reading/gallons of gas bought to fill tank. Is there anything that can be causing such low mileage? Couldn't I get 13 maybe?
Dad says that he's discovered in all his trucks that with a tuneup you get around 14 and without you get 12-13.
If I went with a full tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) how much would I be looking to shell out? are there any other tips/hints? (Other than babying it) I try to coast up to red lights and stop signs, especially if there aren't cars behind me. Oh yeah, this is all city driving.
Maybe I should just stop calculating my gas mileage
Thanks,
Matt
My 1995 4x4 F-150 with E4OD and a 351W is got a calculated 7.2 MPGs using 4wd for maybe 5 miles total and then all 2wd i got 9.1 MPGs. I drive it medium, I sure don't baby it, but I don't run it to redline or burn out every chance I get. Oil was changed 2 months ago. These are american gallons, calculated using at least 3/4 tank before refilling and using MPG=odometer reading/gallons of gas bought to fill tank. Is there anything that can be causing such low mileage? Couldn't I get 13 maybe?
Dad says that he's discovered in all his trucks that with a tuneup you get around 14 and without you get 12-13.
If I went with a full tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) how much would I be looking to shell out? are there any other tips/hints? (Other than babying it) I try to coast up to red lights and stop signs, especially if there aren't cars behind me. Oh yeah, this is all city driving.
Maybe I should just stop calculating my gas mileage
Thanks,
Matt
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
From: Florida
A full tune up will help, results will vary depending how bad it needs one.
Here is an article off a website that may or may not help.
Know-how ways to save:
If you haven’t already, change to synthetic motor oil. It reduces engine friction and can improve gas mileage.
Adding fuel injector cleaner at every oil change will keep injector nozzles clean, and spraying properly, which will create better combustion and deliver maximum power.
Consider installing window film in southern climates, it can reduce cabin temperature as much as 20 degrees; dramatically reducing the need for air conditioning that consumes additional gas. Check local laws on www.gilafilms.com.
After filling up, be sure the gas cap clicks 3 times. Improperly seated gas caps allow 147 million gallons of fuel to vaporize every year in the U.S.
Consider a locking gas cap, but be sure it meets/exceeds your vehicle manufacturer specifications.
Plan your day efficiently. The less trips you have to make, the more you save in fuel.
Buying gas the right way:
Buy gasoline during the coolest time of day—early morning or late evening is best.
During these times gasoline is densest. Keep in mind that gas pumps measure volumes of gasoline, not densities of fuel concentration. You are charged according to volume of measurement. *
Know-how ways to drive and save:
Eliminate “jackrabbit starts.” Accelerate slowly when starting from a dead stop.
Traveling at 55 mph produces up to 21% better mileage when compared to 65 - 70 mph.
Maintain momentum everywhere possible. The less inertia your vehicle has to overcome, the less fuel it will use.
Think ahead when approaching hills. If you accelerate, do it gently before you reach the hill, not while you're on it.
Start your engines:
Avoid prolonged warming up of engine, even on cold mornings—30 to 45 seconds is plenty of time.
Don't start and stop engine needlessly. Idling your engine for one minute consumes the same amount of gas as when you start the engine.
Know-how in Advance:
Stoplights are usually timed for your motoring advantage. By traveling steadily at the legal speed limit you boost your chances of having the "green light" all the way.
Regular tune-ups ensure the best fuel economy; check your owner's manual for recommended maintenance intervals. Special attention should be given to maintaining
clean air filters and proper tire pressures.
Inflate all tires to the manufacturer’s recommendations for the vehicle; rolling resistance created by low tire pressure can reduce mileage as much as 25%.
Running your vehicle’s air conditioner can reduce fuel economy by 10% to 20%.
Remove excess weight from trunk or inside of car. Extra weight reduces mileage, especially when driving up inclines.
Car pools reduce travel monotony and gas expense—all riders chip in to help you buy gas. Conversation helps to keep the driver alert.
During cold weather, remove snow and ice from your vehicle, which otherwise can cause tremendous wind resistance and add up to 100 additional pounds to the vehicle.
Sources: * www.howtoadvice.com
Here is an article off a website that may or may not help.
Know-how ways to save:
If you haven’t already, change to synthetic motor oil. It reduces engine friction and can improve gas mileage.
Adding fuel injector cleaner at every oil change will keep injector nozzles clean, and spraying properly, which will create better combustion and deliver maximum power.
Consider installing window film in southern climates, it can reduce cabin temperature as much as 20 degrees; dramatically reducing the need for air conditioning that consumes additional gas. Check local laws on www.gilafilms.com.
After filling up, be sure the gas cap clicks 3 times. Improperly seated gas caps allow 147 million gallons of fuel to vaporize every year in the U.S.
Consider a locking gas cap, but be sure it meets/exceeds your vehicle manufacturer specifications.
Plan your day efficiently. The less trips you have to make, the more you save in fuel.
Buying gas the right way:
Buy gasoline during the coolest time of day—early morning or late evening is best.
During these times gasoline is densest. Keep in mind that gas pumps measure volumes of gasoline, not densities of fuel concentration. You are charged according to volume of measurement. *
Know-how ways to drive and save:
Eliminate “jackrabbit starts.” Accelerate slowly when starting from a dead stop.
Traveling at 55 mph produces up to 21% better mileage when compared to 65 - 70 mph.
Maintain momentum everywhere possible. The less inertia your vehicle has to overcome, the less fuel it will use.
Think ahead when approaching hills. If you accelerate, do it gently before you reach the hill, not while you're on it.
Start your engines:
Avoid prolonged warming up of engine, even on cold mornings—30 to 45 seconds is plenty of time.
Don't start and stop engine needlessly. Idling your engine for one minute consumes the same amount of gas as when you start the engine.
Know-how in Advance:
Stoplights are usually timed for your motoring advantage. By traveling steadily at the legal speed limit you boost your chances of having the "green light" all the way.
Regular tune-ups ensure the best fuel economy; check your owner's manual for recommended maintenance intervals. Special attention should be given to maintaining
clean air filters and proper tire pressures.
Inflate all tires to the manufacturer’s recommendations for the vehicle; rolling resistance created by low tire pressure can reduce mileage as much as 25%.
Running your vehicle’s air conditioner can reduce fuel economy by 10% to 20%.
Remove excess weight from trunk or inside of car. Extra weight reduces mileage, especially when driving up inclines.
Car pools reduce travel monotony and gas expense—all riders chip in to help you buy gas. Conversation helps to keep the driver alert.
During cold weather, remove snow and ice from your vehicle, which otherwise can cause tremendous wind resistance and add up to 100 additional pounds to the vehicle.
Sources: * www.howtoadvice.com
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,908
Likes: 2
From: West Mansfield, Ohio
So you still didnt get any better MPG's? Lol didn't we PM each other about this one?
Last year in the winter I had it in 4wd and I got 8 MPG. This was before I flushed all my fluids, changed the spark plugs and wires and all that junk. I get 15-16 on the highway and 12-13 just piddling around on the back country roads in which I live. I haven't really calculated my mileage this year with it in 4wd because my tranny is on its last legs, so I dont drive it much.
I have the same setup as you, so you should be able to do much better than that as far as mileage goes.
If I remember right you said you had auto locking hubs correct? See if you can find a set of manual locking hubs. That might help a little bit I'm not sure.
Last year in the winter I had it in 4wd and I got 8 MPG. This was before I flushed all my fluids, changed the spark plugs and wires and all that junk. I get 15-16 on the highway and 12-13 just piddling around on the back country roads in which I live. I haven't really calculated my mileage this year with it in 4wd because my tranny is on its last legs, so I dont drive it much.
I have the same setup as you, so you should be able to do much better than that as far as mileage goes.
If I remember right you said you had auto locking hubs correct? See if you can find a set of manual locking hubs. That might help a little bit I'm not sure.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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actually my mileage got worse... go figure. The manual hubs, if anything will be better than the auto hubs. Other than the fact that if I'm getting 8 MPGs with them constantly locked will cause me to get out of the truck and lock them when i want 4x4. lol, but I suppose 8 constant 4x4 is better than 7 on and off. Thanks guys... Anything else?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 357
Likes: 1
would you mind enlightening me on how to check my lovely fuel presssure?
oh yeah, like last month when it was absolutely freezing, i had a check engine light flash and it was the EGR code... could that have anything to do with anything?
oh yeah, like last month when it was absolutely freezing, i had a check engine light flash and it was the EGR code... could that have anything to do with anything?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,908
Likes: 2
From: West Mansfield, Ohio
Oh yea. That EGR will kill fuel mileage. Well maybe not kill, but significantly choke any chance of getting good mileage. I replaced the one on my ranger and I went from getting 22- almost 30 MPG on the highway.
Ok as far as your fuel pressure goes..... there is a connector on the drivers side fuel rail that should have a black cap, almost like a tire cap that will twist off. It will look almost exactly like a tire filler cap. Auto zone or advance will test this for free. They will hook up a gauge, have you turn the key on to see where the pressure goes. Then they will have you start it and let it idle, and then they will have you tromp the gas for a second to see where the pressure is at (if they know what they're doing.)
When you first turn the key on and the fuel pump primes the lines, you should get around 40 PSI. At idle you should have around 40. When you tromp the gas it should drop to 35 but quickly come back to around 40 when it comes back to idle. If its anywhere above 42 or 43 i'd be worried.
You can also pull the vaccuum line off the FPR. It is a flying saucer looking deal behind your intake manifold/driver side valve cover area mounted on the fuel line. If you pull the vaccuum line off and there is any sign of gas in it, that FPR is bad.
Ok as far as your fuel pressure goes..... there is a connector on the drivers side fuel rail that should have a black cap, almost like a tire cap that will twist off. It will look almost exactly like a tire filler cap. Auto zone or advance will test this for free. They will hook up a gauge, have you turn the key on to see where the pressure goes. Then they will have you start it and let it idle, and then they will have you tromp the gas for a second to see where the pressure is at (if they know what they're doing.)
When you first turn the key on and the fuel pump primes the lines, you should get around 40 PSI. At idle you should have around 40. When you tromp the gas it should drop to 35 but quickly come back to around 40 when it comes back to idle. If its anywhere above 42 or 43 i'd be worried.
You can also pull the vaccuum line off the FPR. It is a flying saucer looking deal behind your intake manifold/driver side valve cover area mounted on the fuel line. If you pull the vaccuum line off and there is any sign of gas in it, that FPR is bad.
