First off, I'd like to apologize in advance for asking questions that I'm sure have already been addressed in this forum. I'm writing from Iraq and the connection doesn't really allow for many forum searches, so I'll just throw myself at the mercy of the resident FTE experts.

Background: I'm 37 years old, extremely mechanical, but in no means an early F1 guru. My dad came into possession of a 1949? F1, which he is very proud of. The truck appears all original, remarkably straight and rust free, but lacks an engine and tranny. My goal is to collect all the parts necessary to put the truck on the road and build it with/for him with the assistance of my two sons, 15 and 13 yrs old. I plan to spend a year researching and collecting the parts and knowledge I need to go from pasture anchor to boulevard cruiser in a 30 day build.

The end goal: This will have to be an economical and realistic undertaking. No billet, no subframe, no fuel injection, and no "numbers matching" concourse restoration. I want a safe, reliable, head turning truck that my dad can cruise around the valley in at his top speed of 65mph.

The questions: I would like to know what vehicles would be suitable donors. I'm planning a conservative drivetrain. 289/302, C-4 auto, 8.8" or 9". I found an awesome article in the tech section regarding rear axle specs, but it didn't say what the spring spacing is for a 48-50. I would like to have the pads and shock mounts welded prior to teardown. Also, I would like to hear any recommendations regarding said engine and tranny swap; primarily, aftermarket crossmember/ motor mounts, as I would like to keep fabrication to a minimum. I plan to keep the SA front end, but would like to update to disc brakes and drop the entire truck 2-3". The final bolt pattern for the front will determine which rear axle I select; 5 on 5 or 5 on 4.5. And most important, model specific issues. Those little details that will blindside a build like this. Example: fitment issues with the engine or tranny. What type of headers will clear the original frame? Will the steering have to be modified or relocated? Special oil pan? Radiator issues? Steering column options? Obsolete parts that will have to be rebuilt?

I will continue to research the aftermarket for all the essentials, from the headliner to the kingpins, but the advice from those that have "been there, done that" is what will make this project a reality.

Thanks in advance, Gary

 

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Unless you have the skills and your sons work for Chip Foose durring summer vacations, a 30 day build is extremely optimistic IMHO. The magic of TV shows the builds at Overhaulin taking a week, but even with more than 50 top people working 24 hrs a day the cars you see during the reveal are just barely bolted together just for looks. After the owner sees the car the show keeps it for another month while they take it all apart again and put it back together properly with everything working. Even the build you describe with all the parts on hand you working 16hrs/7 days with 4 hr a day help by your sons in a fully equipped large shop with lift and not requiring the outside services of an upholsterer, painter, machinist, or welder, is realistically going to take a minimum of 6 months to more likely more than a year. Not trying to discourage you, just being a realist that has BTDT and judging from your questions, I have a lot more experience and I know I couldn't do it.

 

Ditto to the above remarks. Worst way to promote angst in working on old iron is to have a strict deadline; makes the whole task a real pain. I suggest going with an original driveline (8BA & 3 speed trans). You will be assured everything bolts right in and there will be no messing with ancillary issues such as steering & exhaust & motor/trans mounts, etc. Find out what the existing differential gear ratio is and then decide whether to alter rearend. If you have a 3.54:1 you should have no trouble cruising at 65mph. Do the least possible to get it going and then drive it for a while and see if this truck is really what you desire; it's quite possible once you get behind the wheel there may be something about it you don't like and then greatful you didn't sink too much time & money into it.

 

He wants to do it for his dad and I suspect the 30 days is probably returning from deployment leave time.
I'd also suggest you concentrate on cosmetic clean-up and mechanical repairs only, even that will be a major undertaking to accomplish in 30 days.

 

I dunno, I think it's about motivation and what you want to accomplish.

He could easily install disc brakes, change the rear, run new brake lines, install a new wiring harnesss and drivetrain in a month, assuming he has no other obligations.

Metal work/body work, etc wil take a lot of time if needed, as will a frame off restoration, but I don't think that's what he has planned, based on his post.

Besides, looks like he's going to collect everything needed, then install them, if it's all "kit" installs, then minimal fab work will be needed.

And I'm not talking from lack of experience off the top of my head, I've done several "body on" 55-59 "other brands trucks in the same fashion that I think he's looking to do.

 

Welcome aboard Gary.

And a very Big THANK YOU for serving our country.

We have members currently serving in the Sandbox and many more that have already put their time in.

The 302/C4/6 combo will work quite well. Engine and tranny mount kits are readily available. A great example is: http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/.
I would also plan on converting from 6V Positive ground to the 12V neg ground. The big things there are Instruments and Heater motor.

Plan on rebuilding the front and read suspension. Spring shackles/pins, tie rods, King Pins Shocks Etc. The steering box is a big issue in the handling of the truck, the most common swap is to install a steering box out of a Toyota Truck this shows a manual box swap: http://www.geocities.com/zeener96/toyota.htm

The 9 in Ford Rear end is a direct bolt in swap, add the shock mounts, shim for angle, and get the correct length for drive shaft.

Others will be along to help steer you along, we have plenty of ex's, sperts and experts here.

 

I realize how daunting this sounds. having built a few vehicles myself, I'm all too familiar with how "the devil is in the details". I'm trying to avoid as much on site fabrication as possible. I am a welder, a painter, an engine builder (none of which I'll ever win an award for, but....), and I realize there is no such thing as a truck-in-a-box, some assembly required. I plan on arriving with a fully built, and tested, drivetrain, an upholstered bench seat, shackles, monoleaves, pre wired fuse panel and engine harness, glass, weatherstripping, bedwood, etc. I've already allocated a year to work the bugs out of the major components. I doubt the build I have in mind is near the quality your used to doing, but I honestly believe I can make it safe and respectable with the proper preperation. If my questions seem uneducated, its because I'm trying to plan things in the blind. I can't see the truck from here, and I don't remember if the early F-1's had a bellhousing crossmember that interferes with standard headers, like the chevy's of that period did, for example. As far as my timeline, its only because the Army will only grant me a max of 30 days leave. If I hit a snag and can't figure out how to bleed the brakes, so be it. Its just a good excuse to spend some time with my old man after 19 years on the road. BTW, my dads a pretty handy guy to have around the shop as well. He could do it all himself, he's just not in a financial position to fix up any old rigs right now.

Thanks, Gary

 

I considered that route, but I think I would spend more time scrounging for parts in the long run. I could see me spending months just trying to adapy a 12v starter and alternator on that old iron, and I'm sure engine rebuild parts are alot less available.

 

Just to clarify my timeline. I'm scheduled to rotate out of Iraq in the next couple of months. Its been a long year........ I'm gonna start preparing when I get home so that I can start the project in the spring/ summer 2007. When I was 16 I decided to tear apart my first truck, a 1952 chevy, just to "slap in a V-8". Two years later my dad was finishing the wiring while I was off to Ft. Benning GA. So your words of caution are not falling on deaf ears.

Thanks again, Gary

 

Cool Gary, ask away. If you are going to be scrounging parts locally before starting the build, then the IFS out of a Jag SJ is practically a bolt in swap in the F1 and solves a lot of issues, eliminates a lot of expensive hard to find parts and is cheaper and quicker than rebuilding the front end. Gives you good suspension, ride, brakes, steering in one package. The only issue you'd run into is the crossmember interfering with the front sump oil pan, but you can get a rear (often called a double sump pand and pump at your local Ford dealership. The F1 has a tailshaft support crossmember so there is no problem at the firewall, plenty of clearance for any bellhousing and easily adapted to any tranny with a tailshaft mount. There are universal tubular style engine mounts available to use with the straight axle. If you stick with he beam axle, do consider using the Toyota PS box for Dad's driving pleasure, you'll be glad you did.

 

Jag SJ? Now that sounds interesting. I'll put that on the top of the list. I wanted to avoid drastic front end mods ( I subframed a 53 Panel years ago and thats a month long job alone), but if I can have a suspension, brake and steering system rebuilt and ready to drop in, that's the way to go. While I'm in the wrecking yard, I'll pick up a Toyota manual box. Never hurts to have extra parts around does it? 4tl8ford provided a link showing the install, and thats a clean looking mod. Either way, I'd spend $300 on new frontend hardware, plus another $400 for springs or dropped spindles, then the brake conversion....So A Jag may be the best answer.
I looked at the mounts from Chassis engineering. Thats exactly what I was looking for. From what I've seen so far, my choice of master cylinder is going to affect the tranny member and possibly pedal selection.

Thanks again, Gary.

 

Gary

The automatics tail mount is behind the original cross member. What most folks do is cut the original mount, leaving the portion with the pedals intact. Then either build or buy a cross member for the tranny.
There should be an artical in the tech section for building one and Chassis Eng. has a bolt in.
You can also upgrade the brake system by using a Mustang dual brake cyl with an adaptor that is a bolt in.
With the above mods, you can keep the original petals.

 

Does that work with a '53 with the master cylinder under the driver, too? Can you point me to info on that?
-Scott

 

Some words of encouragement. A retired friend and his son called and said, come over and look at our '54 F100 we just bought. I went over and looked and this thing was a disaster. Looked like it had been setting in a field for a hundred years, they paid $300 for it. A week later they called and said come have a look and see how were doing. They stripped it down and had the complete chassis done! IFS installed, 4 bar with 9" rear installed, complete airbag system plumbed and working, motor and trans installed. Amazing what you can do if you put your mind to it.
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