Automatic doorlocks not working?
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Senior User
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From: Nanjemoy, Maryland
Automatic doorlocks not working?
Picked up my first X yesterday. 2001, PSD. 4x4, limited. bone stock with many mods in the near future
. Now on with the not so good stuff. By the time I drove the X home (5 hour drive) the one thing I found wrong was the automatic doorlocks started acting up. If I use any button driver, passenger or keyless entry, The locks start to act sluggish after 2 or 3 quick cycles of on off. The front passenger lock is the first to go if it works at all. If the locks are not used for say a half to 1 hour you can get a couple cycles before they sound and appear to be down on power. If I continue to mess with the locks the passenger front as I said before will drain down to nothing and not even move at all wile the rest start to move slower and slower. There is no issue here with a low battery all other acces. work w/out failure also no mechanical binding of the locks. So the problem seems to be centralized in the lock circuit its self. Any input would be helpful before I start pulling doorpanels off tomarrow. Thanks guys.
Nick
. Now on with the not so good stuff. By the time I drove the X home (5 hour drive) the one thing I found wrong was the automatic doorlocks started acting up. If I use any button driver, passenger or keyless entry, The locks start to act sluggish after 2 or 3 quick cycles of on off. The front passenger lock is the first to go if it works at all. If the locks are not used for say a half to 1 hour you can get a couple cycles before they sound and appear to be down on power. If I continue to mess with the locks the passenger front as I said before will drain down to nothing and not even move at all wile the rest start to move slower and slower. There is no issue here with a low battery all other acces. work w/out failure also no mechanical binding of the locks. So the problem seems to be centralized in the lock circuit its self. Any input would be helpful before I start pulling doorpanels off tomarrow. Thanks guys. Nick
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Nanjemoy, Maryland
Originally Posted by Jeepincj7
Typical weakass door actuators. I just ordered some on EBay for $29.95/ea. Its a very common problem on 70K/mi+ Excursions.
Have you ever seen all of them go at once. Thanks
Nick
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 515
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From: Windsor, CO
Originally Posted by 4x4 VANMAN
Jeepincj7 the X only has 32K on it, but Im sure if its that common to see them crap out, that could be the problem. How difficult is it to change the actuators.
Have you ever seen all of them go at once. Thanks
Nick
Have you ever seen all of them go at once. Thanks
Nick
BTW, congrats on the new X purchase!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Nanjemoy, Maryland
Yea heck with that stealer I mean dealer. I guess I'll be rippen my new doors down tomarrow and check these actuators out so I can place that order if I need to. Thanks. Nick
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Longview, WA
This was posted originally by CUINAK
This is a revamped door lock actuator replacement procedure of what I originally authored (back in May) with step by step instructions and new annotated thumbnail photos to go along with the instructions for replacing all five original Excursion actuators. Familiarity with this procedure and the step by step helpful annotated photo thumbnails I've loaded for you will result in a two hour install time for all five actuators. Most of the time required will be associated with the first actuator as part of the learning curve, and I recommend you start with a rear passenger door to begin your adventure. Print this page for reference and click on the CUINAK gallery to visually walk through the entire repair sequence.
For reference, the right side actuator (you'll need 2 for the two right side doors) is part #3L3Z-25218A42*AA, and the left side actuator (you'll need 3 for the two left side doors and for the rear lift gate) is part # #3L3Z-25218A43*AA. New door lock actuators over the Internet run about $37 a unit, excluding shipping. Save hundreds of dollars in excessive repair bills by doing this actuator replacement your self!
Step 1. Window up completely.
Step 2. Remove 2 hex screws from door panel. One located underneath the red/white reflector plate. A second hex screw is located underneath the power button plate which can be pried up nearest the mirrors and slid forward toward the mirrors for removal. Unplug the power button assembly connections. For the front doors, detach the inside plastic mirror cover (i.e., slightly pry then pull off).
Step 3. Unhinge door panel by lifting first upward clearing the height of the door **** then pulling outward toward your self. For front doors, detach the courtesy light wiring by rotating the connector.
Step 4. Peel back half of the self adhesive sheathing covering the metal door frame to gain access into the door frame itself. Begin peeling this covering on the side nearest the door lock latch locking mechanism located farthest out on the door frame. The peeled back sheathing can be taped onto the window to keep it up and out of the way.
Step 5. Locate the connector rod that moves when you raise or lower the door ****. Follow it to the lock mechanism located at the outer most point of the door and rotate the yellow plastic connector with your fingers to detach it from the metal rod. The yellow plastic connector swivels vertically to unclip, and the connector rod then just pulls free from the center of the yellow connector. If you are working on a rear passenger door, skip to Step 7.
Step 6. If your are working with the front door, look above the actuator assembly through access holes and locate a small rectangular shaped black or white plastic alligator (open mouth) connector having a vertical rod within its mouth. Using a long needle nose pliers through a round access hole in the door frame, gently compress the upper and lower open ends of the plastic mouth in sequence while gently pulling the rod from its mouth. It helps here at this step to have a helper shine a flashlight while you reposition the pliers and use your other hand to gently pull on the connector from the plastic mouth. Once disconnected at the alligator mouth, swivel the vertical rod down and around as it is permanently attached to the door lock assembly. To reattach, simply push the metal rod back into its open mouth of the plastic connector and it will automatically latch back onto it.
Step 7. Unscrew the 3 black screws that hold the door latch mechanism to the door. These screws are located on the exterior side of the door frame and require a star screwdriver head. You'll also want to temporarily detach (by pushing inward on) a small yellow bushing evident on the metal door frame that secures a black cable that traverses behind the metal door housing. Note: if you are working with a front door, there will be two small yellow bushings to temporarily detach plus two white plastic bushings nearby holding wiring bundles.
Step 8. Locate the green connector above the door lock assembly. The green tab holding the vertical rod is a swivel connector and can be stubborn to open. Rotate the door lock assembly with your hand enough such that the green tab can be accessed either through the door latch mechanism where the 3 star screws were removed or through the door panel itself. Use a screwdriver to push open the swivel tab. The tab swivels like a typical door hinge. Pull the vertical connector rod to the side once the swivel is open.
Step 9. Reach in and pull the entire lock assembly out. You will need to rotate the assembly 90 degrees around the vertical window guide. If the assembly is resisting double check you removed all the connections described in prior steps.
Step 10. Unclip the electrical connectors at the door lock actuator unit. Push out the plastic bushing that helps secure the connector wire bundle to the failed door lock actuator mechanism. You will push this plastic bushing into the new unit at the same bushing hole once the old unit is pulled out.
Step 11. The faulty unit slides out toward you once the thin black tab that secures it to the door lock assembly is lifted up a bit by a screwdriver. Install the new actuator unit by sliding and clicking it into the same location. Make sure the small shaft protruding out on the new actuator swivel arm correctly lands into the lock assembly or else the unit will not function properly. At this point, reconnect the two electrical connections and verify correct movement by activating the door lock mechanism using the remote entry or the front door lock/unlock rocker switch.
Step 12. Now just reverse the steps you have just done, by beginning at Step 9 and working backwards to Step 2. When you complete Step 5, again activate the door locks to ensure you have everything correctly working prior to moving to Step 4.
For the rear cargo lift gate actuator replacement, remove 2 screws holding the rear lift gate handle and pry off the hard plastic cover the spans the base of the lift gate window. The plastic cover can by pried off by starting on one end of the lift gate. Peel back sheathing to gain access and use a screw driver to lift the thin black tab on the actuator to release it. Disconnect the wiring connector. Install new actuator, reconnect wire connector, and test. Make sure the small shaft protruding from the actuator swivel arm is correctly landed into the lock assembly or else the unit will not function properly.
Best of Luck !
Look up CUINAK and go to his gallery. He has all the pictures taken to follow the steps above. He did a great job.
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For reference, the right side actuator (you'll need 2 for the two right side doors) is part #3L3Z-25218A42*AA, and the left side actuator (you'll need 3 for the two left side doors and for the rear lift gate) is part # #3L3Z-25218A43*AA. New door lock actuators over the Internet run about $37 a unit, excluding shipping. Save hundreds of dollars in excessive repair bills by doing this actuator replacement your self!
Step 1. Window up completely.
Step 2. Remove 2 hex screws from door panel. One located underneath the red/white reflector plate. A second hex screw is located underneath the power button plate which can be pried up nearest the mirrors and slid forward toward the mirrors for removal. Unplug the power button assembly connections. For the front doors, detach the inside plastic mirror cover (i.e., slightly pry then pull off).
Step 3. Unhinge door panel by lifting first upward clearing the height of the door **** then pulling outward toward your self. For front doors, detach the courtesy light wiring by rotating the connector.
Step 4. Peel back half of the self adhesive sheathing covering the metal door frame to gain access into the door frame itself. Begin peeling this covering on the side nearest the door lock latch locking mechanism located farthest out on the door frame. The peeled back sheathing can be taped onto the window to keep it up and out of the way.
Step 5. Locate the connector rod that moves when you raise or lower the door ****. Follow it to the lock mechanism located at the outer most point of the door and rotate the yellow plastic connector with your fingers to detach it from the metal rod. The yellow plastic connector swivels vertically to unclip, and the connector rod then just pulls free from the center of the yellow connector. If you are working on a rear passenger door, skip to Step 7.
Step 6. If your are working with the front door, look above the actuator assembly through access holes and locate a small rectangular shaped black or white plastic alligator (open mouth) connector having a vertical rod within its mouth. Using a long needle nose pliers through a round access hole in the door frame, gently compress the upper and lower open ends of the plastic mouth in sequence while gently pulling the rod from its mouth. It helps here at this step to have a helper shine a flashlight while you reposition the pliers and use your other hand to gently pull on the connector from the plastic mouth. Once disconnected at the alligator mouth, swivel the vertical rod down and around as it is permanently attached to the door lock assembly. To reattach, simply push the metal rod back into its open mouth of the plastic connector and it will automatically latch back onto it.
Step 7. Unscrew the 3 black screws that hold the door latch mechanism to the door. These screws are located on the exterior side of the door frame and require a star screwdriver head. You'll also want to temporarily detach (by pushing inward on) a small yellow bushing evident on the metal door frame that secures a black cable that traverses behind the metal door housing. Note: if you are working with a front door, there will be two small yellow bushings to temporarily detach plus two white plastic bushings nearby holding wiring bundles.
Step 8. Locate the green connector above the door lock assembly. The green tab holding the vertical rod is a swivel connector and can be stubborn to open. Rotate the door lock assembly with your hand enough such that the green tab can be accessed either through the door latch mechanism where the 3 star screws were removed or through the door panel itself. Use a screwdriver to push open the swivel tab. The tab swivels like a typical door hinge. Pull the vertical connector rod to the side once the swivel is open.
Step 9. Reach in and pull the entire lock assembly out. You will need to rotate the assembly 90 degrees around the vertical window guide. If the assembly is resisting double check you removed all the connections described in prior steps.
Step 10. Unclip the electrical connectors at the door lock actuator unit. Push out the plastic bushing that helps secure the connector wire bundle to the failed door lock actuator mechanism. You will push this plastic bushing into the new unit at the same bushing hole once the old unit is pulled out.
Step 11. The faulty unit slides out toward you once the thin black tab that secures it to the door lock assembly is lifted up a bit by a screwdriver. Install the new actuator unit by sliding and clicking it into the same location. Make sure the small shaft protruding out on the new actuator swivel arm correctly lands into the lock assembly or else the unit will not function properly. At this point, reconnect the two electrical connections and verify correct movement by activating the door lock mechanism using the remote entry or the front door lock/unlock rocker switch.
Step 12. Now just reverse the steps you have just done, by beginning at Step 9 and working backwards to Step 2. When you complete Step 5, again activate the door locks to ensure you have everything correctly working prior to moving to Step 4.
For the rear cargo lift gate actuator replacement, remove 2 screws holding the rear lift gate handle and pry off the hard plastic cover the spans the base of the lift gate window. The plastic cover can by pried off by starting on one end of the lift gate. Peel back sheathing to gain access and use a screw driver to lift the thin black tab on the actuator to release it. Disconnect the wiring connector. Install new actuator, reconnect wire connector, and test. Make sure the small shaft protruding from the actuator swivel arm is correctly landed into the lock assembly or else the unit will not function properly.
Best of Luck !
Look up CUINAK and go to his gallery. He has all the pictures taken to follow the steps above. He did a great job.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2005
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I just started to have this problem myself. I hate to hear that I have to replace the actuators. Sounds like a pain. I tried to lube up the linkages but that was no help. It is just funny to me that all of them went bad at once. Bad luck I guess. I was a some what excited that there was a thread on this.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Windsor, CO
Originally Posted by 4x4 VANMAN
RDRAY, good find. Thanks for the good info.
Nick
Nick
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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Originally Posted by 4x4 VANMAN
Jeepincj7 the X only has 32K on it, but Im sure if its that common to see them crap out, that could be the problem. How difficult is it to change the actuators.
Have you ever seen all of them go at once. Thanks
Nick
Have you ever seen all of them go at once. Thanks
Nick
