brake job question
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: North Pole Alaska
brake job question
I'm in need of a brake job. Found it because of a brake fluid leak. This is my first on my F350 Chilton gives a good start but the details are sketchy. It says to start by "removing the parking brake lever assembly" however when I turn the nut the whole pin turns and I can't grip it tight enough to break the nut loose. Any ideas?
Mark
Mark
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Soak it with PB Blaster.
But I can not figure what nut you are working on.
Standard brake job.
Remove the wheel
Back off the brake shoe adjuster
Remove the drum
Remove the springs
Remove the shoes
Replace the shoes
Replace the springs
Replace the drum
Adjust the shoes
Replace the wheel
Done
Since you said you have a fluid leak I guess you are also going to have a wheel cylinder to replace while in there.
Soak all that stuff down with PB Blaster as well a couple of times before you try to remove it.
What year is your truck?
If you go to the blue bar above this post and click "User CP"
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Enter your truck info in the signature box, we no longer have to wonder what truck we are giving directions for.
But I can not figure what nut you are working on.
Standard brake job.
Remove the wheel
Back off the brake shoe adjuster
Remove the drum
Remove the springs
Remove the shoes
Replace the shoes
Replace the springs
Replace the drum
Adjust the shoes
Replace the wheel
Done
Since you said you have a fluid leak I guess you are also going to have a wheel cylinder to replace while in there.
Soak all that stuff down with PB Blaster as well a couple of times before you try to remove it.
What year is your truck?
If you go to the blue bar above this post and click "User CP"
Then drop down to "Edit signature"
Enter your truck info in the signature box, we no longer have to wonder what truck we are giving directions for.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,051
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From: Douglas, Georgia
wheel cylinder is easy, costs about $10....
if your really good, you don't need to remove any of the springs :-)
last cylinder I changed out took about 10min.
if you do replace the springs, autozone has a drum brake spring kit.... $5 for all the springs for both sides.
might as well do both sides.
if your really good, you don't need to remove any of the springs :-)
last cylinder I changed out took about 10min.
if you do replace the springs, autozone has a drum brake spring kit.... $5 for all the springs for both sides.
might as well do both sides.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 33
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From: North Pole Alaska
Got the brakes on fine but now the brakes are very spungy. I bled the lines but it still feels like it needs it done again. Can there be more air in the lines or is something else going on?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
Drive it for a day safely, then take the rear drums off and re setup the rear brakes. Check the adjusters to ensure they are working correctly. The rear drums/shoes should be snug and the braking should come back to normal. Backing up applying brakes and using the park brake will adjust the rears as required.
If you had the rear drums turned did they check for oversize after done......easy to tell the drum will only contact the shoe in the center......
If you had the rear drums turned did they check for oversize after done......easy to tell the drum will only contact the shoe in the center......
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
Likes: 10
Yes there certainly can be more air in the lines. Follow advice on adjusting and bleed again, preferably after about 24hrs when fluid has "settled".
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