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Engine Knock

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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 11:53 PM
  #1  
bmxerbrett's Avatar
bmxerbrett
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Engine Knock

I have an 87 150 with a 5.0 and an aod in it. When I'm going up hill the engine will knock or ping a little. It does it more when the cruise control is on and also on steeper longer hills. The engine has 140k on it. Can this be timming or gas problems maybe or is this my engine saying its fairwells before it takes a crap?

Brett
 
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 08:17 AM
  #2  
alabamabuddog's Avatar
alabamabuddog
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From: Covington, Tn
You can take out a little timing but I would suggest one grade better gas.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 10:56 AM
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brandon9571
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My 90 with a 5.0 had been pinging for a year or so. I tried adjusting the timing and everything else and couldn't make it stop. It finally chipped a piston and ruined the motor. So if you can get it to stop pinging you need to.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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My 88 F150 5.0 is doing the same thing. I'm beginning to think I have a plugged cat. I had a Caddy that did the same thing, replaced cat, no more knock. Any other opinions?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 03:05 PM
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Talking Ding Dong the Knock is Dead!

Finally killed the knock! Just in case it might help any poor souls out there still suffering, here's what I did, in order, with test drives in between to confirm operation:
  • Read the codes using info. found on fordfuelinjection.com, nothing out of the ordinary was found. In fact, I ended up with "EEC PASS," in both KOEO and CM modes
  • I tried Seafoam. This gave a substantial increase in power and smoothed out the idle a bit, but the knock persisted. The engine probably needed it anyway, it smoked like a chimney when I fired it up lol!
  • Next, I did a close inspection and found several vacuum leaks, one of which was the EGR
  • Pulled the IAC, took it apart, and cleaned it with carb cleaner (really didn't look that bad, no sticky operation). To test, I pulled the connector off the IAC with the engine idling at normal operating temp., the engine stalled, so I knew it was okay
  • Rerouted the #8 spark plug wire away from #7 to prevent crossfire
  • Replaced the plugs with standard OEM Autolite copper cores (gap = 0.044 inch), replaced cap and rotor. The cap and rotor were pretty fried, but to my surprise, the plugs had the expected color and appearance for even wear.
  • Replaced the terminal end to the negative battery terminal because it was corroded. Bear in mind that this operation also would have the effect of resetting the EEC because the ground terminal has to be disconnected to perform the repair.
  • Reset timing to 10 BTDC with SPOUT disconnected. While doing this, it was dark outside, and I found something interesting - the #5 plug wire was arcing! Turns out the terminal end had separated from the wire inside the boot, most likely a result of my fighting with the lead when I replaced the plugs. I didn't have the cash to replace the wires, so I had to repair it. I crimped the terminal end onto the wire and struggled for an hour getting it back into position in the boot - WHEW!
IMO, the combination of the (inadvertant) EEC reset and resetting the ignition timing was probably the solution in the end, but the other repairs were definitely necessary as well, so it wasn't like they were for naught. Since then, it is as if I have replaced the engine! She's a very happy girl for 150+k miles on her

Hope this information is useful to anyone with the annoying and damaging condition of spark - knock!
 
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