When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
On my 1999 F350 Power stroke the cargo and dome light just mystericaly come on and go off by them selves. Drains the battery. I now have to pull a fuse when parking truck. Cannot just leave it out tell I get it figured out cus the wipers are on the same fuse.
My dome light used to come on and stay on. I sprayed some wd-40 inside the doors where there are sensors, then slammed both driver and passenger doors 10 or so times pretty hard and it fixed my problem.
i also have the problem with the overhead light staying on. the rear cab light also stays lit for 10-20 minutes after i get out, and the same case with the inerior lights. when key is on and a door is opened, the interior lights will stay on until i reach 10mph, and then it will shut off. this is a PITA in the dark, it makes it seem like chebby quality.
tried the WD-40 trick *even used PBblaster and Gibbs, to no avail*, however i never tried SLAMMING the doors, i will do that. the door ajar switches are about $100 or so i have heard.
.......... the overhead light staying on. the rear cab light also stays lit for 10-20 minutes after i get out, and the same case with the inerior lights. when key is on and a door is opened, the interior lights will stay on until i reach 10mph, and then it will shut off........
This is controlled by the VSM. It is exactly how my new one acted until I had the stealership reprogram it.
My dome light used to come on and stay on. I sprayed some wd-40 inside the doors where there are sensors, then slammed both driver and passenger doors 10 or so times pretty hard and it fixed my problem.
Common problem with Ford trucks. My 98 Expedition did this too. WD-40 the door light switches.
Yea, Mine is doing the same thing right now. Pretty frustrating and makes me wonder if Ford uses Radio Shack switches. I love my truck, but I know that I have to deal with Ford's cost cutting technology. If I may offer some advice.... Don't use WD-40, it will only cause the switch to grime up with dirt latter and make it harder and harder to repair. Use a contact cleaner. I am an electrician and would never consider WD-40 anywhere near an electrical switch. You are only asking for problems in the future.
does anyone have a wiring diagram?????It sounds as if there is a relay under the dash that clicks as the light goes out.....I am leaning towards something along these lines.....Mine is very speratic....sometimes they stay on and sometime they dont.....
the wd 40 diddnt work for me so i just unplugged the bad switch for now so i dont have to live with the annoying lights
great idea. is this switch under the panel, by that i mean do you have to take the door apart? because of my luck, the fourth door i try will be the problematic one, so can someone show me or give a description of where this switch is that i can unplug and not have to deal with the door ajar lights? thanks
yes you will have to take the door apart. it is very easy to do, mine was the third door i tried. to get the door off all you do is pry off the switch panel on the doors off (where your window switches are and unplug the switckes) there will be one bolt in there. to get to the other bolt you have to pull off the lens on the bottom of the door light and twist the bulb to free it from the door. unscrew the bolt. also you have to pull off the plastic trim piece on the front corner of the door toward the front of the truck. it will just pull off with your hands. push your door lock down and pull up on the door panel. you have to clear the lock. pull up and you will feel it let go then just pull it toward you. its easier to understant when you start doing it. once you get the door panel off you will have to peel back the sound proofing to get to the hole in the door. you will see two connectors with wires runnign to them the one closest to you is for the door locks and the one in the back is the door switch. is it hard to get your hands in there but is easy to disconnect but a pain to connect if it isnt the right one. once it is unplugged just turn your key on and if it is right your light will go out. also with unplugging it the lights will not work properly with the one door but all the others will work and you will not have to look at the red light in the dash or the constantly running dome lights. but that isnt a big deal because if you hit the unlock button on your remote the lights will come on until you turn on your key. this is a lot easier than it sounds the only part that is a little tricky is plugging it back in if it is the wrong one. just guess right. like i said the door panels come off with 2 screws and the trim pieces are only cliped in.
hope it works for you
Merry Christmas
-Justin
does anyone have a wiring diagram?????It sounds as if there is a relay under the dash that clicks as the light goes out.....I am leaning towards something along these lines.....Mine is very speratic....sometimes they stay on and sometime they dont.....
yes there is a relay under the dash as a matter of fact it is the top one of the stack. This is where I pulled the signal for my running lights under the door. If you pull that relay, your dome and cargo light will no longer light.
I have a dome light problem that I havent been able to figure out. In my crewcab the center dome works great but the one over the back seat does not come on. The lights with the switch do. From the lights on the cab, only the brake lights will come on. The light for the bed doesnt. I have checked all the bulbs and they are good. It seems like a bad ground, but do these run on seperate grounds? any ideas, cuz i just have not messed with it since it is not that big a deal.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.