When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i got her to start and run good but there is still something getting the best of me. with the truck running if i pull the battery cables the truck dies. new alternator and belt is tight. had it checked and it is good. previous owner put on new voltage reg. alternator connections are good and tight. no visible wire damages. no smoke im just stumped its probally something stupid and im just missin it. any help?
short the "+" wire to the FIELD wire on the regulator, that will make the alternator charge full. if it does the regulator is either bad or has a bad ground. If it doesn't check to make sure both those wires have continuity to the alternator if they do the alternator is NG.
howzit, i had the same problem with my '79, i fixed it by iliminating the voltage regulator, and put in a alt. with an internal regulator. all is good now.
Do NOT pull the battery cables with the engine running! If your alternator is operating this will cause what is known as a "load dump" transient which can impose a high power and high voltage (400V) spike on your electrical system that will wipe out many components.
automotive multimeters, should allow you to check the battery, alternator, etc... without having to risk injury by pulling on cables. On another thought, your solenoid post where the positive battery cable goes to might be broken or loose.
Do NOT pull the battery cables with the engine running! If your alternator is operating this will cause what is known as a "load dump" transient which can impose a high power and high voltage (400V) spike on your electrical system that will wipe out many components.
Torque, where did you get that info from? I've done that hundreds of times and never had a problem.
Specifically, an alternator puts out pulsating DC current, not AC. But, the previous posts are correct, NEVER EVER pull the battery cables loose when the engine is running. Voltage spikes in excess of 400V can be produced due
to the Di/Dt (change in current / change in time) * the wiring inductance.
As previously mentioned, the alternator puts out pulsating DC, and this pulsating DC is filtered to pure DC by the battery. The battery is a HUGE capacitor, that opposes change in voltage.
I announce the same warning when I see people who say they do this.
It's the Fastest way to screw your charging system.
This BAD practise is From the old days of GENERATORS , that sometimes needed a electrical spike/spark to get them to start producing power.
This is NOT for alternator systems as they are A/C current not DC like Generators are.
Although the BIG RED LETTERS are very impressive, where did you get this info from? I've never caused damage to any car or truck doing this, and I've done it plenty of times over the years, and contrary to popular belief I'm not old enough to be talking about generators.
Specifically, an alternator puts out pulsating DC current, not AC. But, the previous posts are correct, NEVER EVER pull the battery cables loose when the engine is running. Voltage spikes in excess of 400V can be produced due
to the Di/Dt (change in current / change in time) * the wiring inductance.
As previously mentioned, the alternator puts out pulsating DC, and this pulsating DC is filtered to pure DC by the battery. The battery is a HUGE capacitor, that opposes change in voltage.
I always thought the alternator put out AC and the rectifier converted it to DC? Am I incorrect?
To add further confusion to this topic,some repair sites state that we are not supposed to call alternators built after 1986 ...alternators...we are supposed to call them generators.
Eric, Go to google and type in . Disconnecting battery cables with engine running............. and read the first 10 hits
I have seen bulbs explode and such from these voltage spikes!! Not to mention, the spark produced when connecting and disconnecting the cable can ignite the gasses produced by a strained battery!!
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.