Brake Shake
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Brake Shake
I have an 03 RegCab 4x2 with about 28k on it and the rotors are SHOT warpped Baddly(not able to turn). Has any body had this problem and have they gotten any feedback from Ford about this problem?
I am not a hard braking type driver and have 40 to 50% pad left.
This is the 2nd ranger tat I have had this problem with my Son's truck is #2 same thing about 25 to 28k and shaking badly his he bought used mine I bought new.
Any segestions on aftermarket rotors and pads?
I am not a hard braking type driver and have 40 to 50% pad left.
This is the 2nd ranger tat I have had this problem with my Son's truck is #2 same thing about 25 to 28k and shaking badly his he bought used mine I bought new.
Any segestions on aftermarket rotors and pads?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,436
Likes: 117
From: Virginia
First off, welcome to FTE.
I posted some info you should find usefull in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=424557
From that thread:
Ok guys I hate to burst some bubbles here, but rotors do NOT warp. There is a more scientific explanation as to why you are feeling that "pulse/vibration" while braking, and it does not involve "warped rotors".
In simple terms, rotors can develop "hot spots" and excessive build-ups of pad material in various spots on the rotor face. The way brakes are supposed to work is the pads leave a thin even layer of material on the surface of the rotor. If the pads are not bedded in properly, or you regularly exceed the heat range of the pads then uneven deposits will develop on the rotor surface. The extra material + the excessive heat in that spot will cause a molecular change to the properties of the metal in that area of the rotor. The reason you feel the wheel shake is every time the pad slides by these spots it grabs or "snags" on these uneven areas and creates extra friction. Generally if you catch it in time you can "cut" it out by turning the rotors. If it has gone too long then the "hot spot" will have penetrated too deep in the metal to remove it by turning. That is why the symptoms return VERY quickly after turning the rotors. It is like a cancer, if you don't get all of it, then it will return in a short amount of time.
Now, before you go saying I am talking out my backside allow the possibility that there is a scientific explanation to this problem. Take a few minutes and read the following articles: Also, note the name of who wrote the last one.....
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml#7
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml#25
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
(the last link is updated, they changed the website)
I posted some info you should find usefull in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=424557
From that thread:
Ok guys I hate to burst some bubbles here, but rotors do NOT warp. There is a more scientific explanation as to why you are feeling that "pulse/vibration" while braking, and it does not involve "warped rotors".
In simple terms, rotors can develop "hot spots" and excessive build-ups of pad material in various spots on the rotor face. The way brakes are supposed to work is the pads leave a thin even layer of material on the surface of the rotor. If the pads are not bedded in properly, or you regularly exceed the heat range of the pads then uneven deposits will develop on the rotor surface. The extra material + the excessive heat in that spot will cause a molecular change to the properties of the metal in that area of the rotor. The reason you feel the wheel shake is every time the pad slides by these spots it grabs or "snags" on these uneven areas and creates extra friction. Generally if you catch it in time you can "cut" it out by turning the rotors. If it has gone too long then the "hot spot" will have penetrated too deep in the metal to remove it by turning. That is why the symptoms return VERY quickly after turning the rotors. It is like a cancer, if you don't get all of it, then it will return in a short amount of time.
Now, before you go saying I am talking out my backside allow the possibility that there is a scientific explanation to this problem. Take a few minutes and read the following articles: Also, note the name of who wrote the last one.....
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml#7
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml#25
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
(the last link is updated, they changed the website)
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,436
Likes: 117
From: Virginia
If that were the cause then driving in the rain would be a "no no". We all drive in the rain all the time, same with racecars. The rapid cooling from water is a "possible" cause for small cracks, but brakes are designed to go through all sorts of severe conditions.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
Hummmmm... Well I had a 98 and drove it 100,000 miles on the original brakes with NO troubles. On the 02 at 60,000 mile I had to have the rotors Turned for no apparent reason. Now the driver didn't change, I can't explain why but sometimes it just happens I guess.
Dave
Dave
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Well BUTCH61, I've recently had brake vibrations with two Ford products & both were different problems.
94 Taurus 3.8L GL, always had some intermittent front brake shudder/vibrations, that were helped some by having the
Dealer resurface the rotors.
BUT the real & lasting fix has come, by my replacing the OEM pads with new OEM pads. So I'm thinking perhaps there was something wrong with the origional pads friction material!!!!
On my 99 Ranger, I developed a severe high speed braking vibration while towing my boat & braking some, while going down hill.
This turned out to be uneavenly torqued front wheel lug nuts.
I found some were run up with as much as 30 ft/lbs difference. Some were under torqued & some were over torqued.
Only the two front wheels were affected. The rear wheels wereright on the money.
My tire dealer, who does my rotation & rebalance, has gotten an ear full since. He uses a torque stick, but I have a feeling the person who put the front on didn't use the stick.
I Re~torqued the lug nuts, in three steps & in the right sequence & that fixed her up ok, no more vibrations.
I have the chromed faced steel wheels, not the cast aluminum whees, which can need retorquing after a few miles, when the wheels are removed!!!
Just some brake vibration experiences, I've recently had & what I've found to be my root cause.
Don't overlook your front wheel bearing condition & play adjustment either.
Let us know what you find your root cause to be.
94 Taurus 3.8L GL, always had some intermittent front brake shudder/vibrations, that were helped some by having the
Dealer resurface the rotors.
BUT the real & lasting fix has come, by my replacing the OEM pads with new OEM pads. So I'm thinking perhaps there was something wrong with the origional pads friction material!!!!
On my 99 Ranger, I developed a severe high speed braking vibration while towing my boat & braking some, while going down hill.
This turned out to be uneavenly torqued front wheel lug nuts.
I found some were run up with as much as 30 ft/lbs difference. Some were under torqued & some were over torqued.
Only the two front wheels were affected. The rear wheels wereright on the money.
My tire dealer, who does my rotation & rebalance, has gotten an ear full since. He uses a torque stick, but I have a feeling the person who put the front on didn't use the stick.
I Re~torqued the lug nuts, in three steps & in the right sequence & that fixed her up ok, no more vibrations.
I have the chromed faced steel wheels, not the cast aluminum whees, which can need retorquing after a few miles, when the wheels are removed!!!
Just some brake vibration experiences, I've recently had & what I've found to be my root cause.
Don't overlook your front wheel bearing condition & play adjustment either.
Let us know what you find your root cause to be.
