Hi all,

96, I remember you warning me on overtightening my top hose to the Rad nipple cause it is plastic... so I just barely tightened it when I changed everything out...

but just yesterday, I saw it was leaking from there... drizzling down, drip drip drip... I don't remember seeing it leaking from there before.

so, I removed the TB housing, and tightened the clamp a bit more. I used the stainless clamps, replacing the spring jobbies that were on there before...

Started the engine, let it get to where I could see that the theromostat opened, and then shut it off... NO LEAK...

But, the question is, how do I know if it is over tight? I don't want to crack my nipple on the radiator... how flexible is that fitting? will it give some?

if you can visualize, Originally, the clamp was flush with the hose, and now, it indents the hose slightly...maybe a 32nd of an inch, if that much - it's tight on there for sure though... used a wrench to tighten, as opposed to a screw driver... but I could have tighened it more if I wanted to...

I just didn't know if it would have cracked right away, or could it from the heat/cold, etc...

How comon is this? anyone's thoughts?

(96- BTW, the silicone was a great fix for the T-Stat Housing, I don't see it leaking there at all anymore, at least not today :-)) so, thanks for that

 

It's always a good idea to clean all the water hose connections and put a bit of Permatex # 2 sealant (the non-hardened type) on the nipple before putting the hose on. As for the spring type clamp, I actually prefer them to the worm type clamps. I have never had a leak through the spring type clamps before, but I have ruined plenty of good hoses by overtightening the worm type clamps

 

That is interesting, since many people say that the spring type Clamps can weaken over time, and become loose... but I guess you do these as a 1/2 punch...

So, you haven't seen cracked nipples on raditors with the 3.0L aeros? 96 just made me a bit nervous, but I can use your other idea with permmatex? is this the same as the gray silicone I used for the T-stat housing? it's like a "make a gasket" type stuff that doesn't harden, but when it dries, it is plyable, and kinda fills in the uneven parts of the contact surface...

Can I use that stuff, and slide the hose on right away? or do I have to let your stuff set up first?

I don't care about ruining the hose... it's the radiator that is the harder/more expensive thing to have to replace... hoses are $20, and take 5 mins to replace (at least the top hose does)

Thanks,
Bob

 

Just go to the autopart store and ask for Permatex # 2. They should know. Permatex #1 will harden but not #2. It's not the Silicone RTV. Silicone RTV is very hard to clean up, but Permatex #2 can be cleaned up easily with rubbing alcohol. You don't really have to wait too long, just about ten minutes or so for it to gel up a little and another hour or so before you put water in. It has worked very well for me.

Also, even though you can crack the plastic nipple on the radiator, it's not that fragile. If you see no leak now, just leave it alone.

It's perfectly normal to tighten the worm type clamps only to have a little leak later when the rubber hose gets hot and soft. You just tighten it a little more when it's hot, until the leak stops. You might have to do this a few times, at least that's my experience with this type of clamps. That's why I prefer the "fire and forget" spring clamps.

 

mediaman,
copper said it all, new-tighten until snug, run engine until coolant hot and fully pressurized, check for any leaks and tighten any seeps until they stop....recheck running pressurized hot in a couple days for any new seeps....
i look everything over under the hood while hot and running every couple months, catches problems before they drop onto pavement and become big $$$$$.

before the days of RTV auto O2 safe silicone seal and expensive Permatex, we used to use thick axle grease in thermostat housing and water pump gaskets....good for 100k miles...do NOT use on rubber products such as hoses

 

Hi 96,

when you meant not too tight on the clamps for the rad nipples, I'll still be ok, if the hose slightly indents when the clamp is tightened down? Do these crack over time from being too tight, or would I have known by now if it was too tight?

am I being too **** here? the hose is tight, no leaks... no worries?

Thanks,
Bob

 

I would say that you are. But aren't we all?

No leaky, no worry.

 

Hi Mediaman:

Hakuna matata! Don't worry too much, if it's not broken and not leaking, you can sleep well. I would hate to be your doctor (Comment made as a joke, of course)

P.S. Can we stop talking about nipples now? I'm aroused!!!!!

 

I would recomend seeing your wife, but that would mean less Aero Beer and time with the Aero.

 

Cool... I just don't want to have to replace the radiator, because I overtighened something... that's all I was concered about.

If I can just make it through the winter, I'm looking to get a late 90's or early 2000's Explorer... would consider an AWD 97 Aero for sure. too... I mean, I got my 16 years out of the van, still seems to run very good... Might as well sell it while I can still get something for it... 1989 with 125K on her. I know they are supposed to last 200K+, but up here, Rust ends up costing more money... and the rockers will need to be done in a year or two... not rusted through yet, but gonna be soon I'm sure.

Yeah, thank God I'm healthy, or I would be worse :-) My Wife is the laid back one in the family :-) God, if she was like me... Poor thing :-)

I'm sure I'll have some more questions... but I did give back on here... my 2 cents on doing a complete tune up on the 3.0L, at least from my own pitfalls, etc...

You guys are all wonderful people - Thanks for bearing with me...

Bob

 

cold weather has also been know to cause cracked nipples

relax, mediaman, not yours

 

The key I've been taught since I was a teenager (Richard Nixon in the White House. New 8-Track Three Dog Night playing) was to make sure the nipple connection (the male part to whatever you are connecting the hose too) is completely clean, no deposits, sediment, etc. My Dad told me, it's the same reason why it is important to remove all traces of an old gasket, no matter how tiny or minute. Once you are sure the connection is clean, spray the inside of the hose with silicone spray, even Armor-All. It won't hurt anything, and is quickly flushed out. The clamps just need to be snugly tight, not cranked down hard. Once the clamp bites into the rubber, just a small amount of pressure, and you're done. If you remove a clamp, and the rubber hose is reamed in from the clamp, then the clamp was much too tight. A screw clamp will leave a small, slight indentation on the hose, but not much. Worm clamps are also okay and should be replaced when new hoses are installed, regardless. ED
PS Copper, you are funny!! :>)

 

Hi Ed,

That was the kind of answer I was kinda sort of looking for :-) But, all of your other comments were great too...

I double checked my clamps... the one at the T-Stat housing is too tight for sure, but I didn't care there, because it's metal... the one at the top of rad was just snug...

I think the best way to describe it, is if I run my finger over the hose and the clamp, the clamp feels about flush with the hose... so it is gripping it, but not really indenting, like the T-stat housing is... No Leaks for a week there any longer...

But, I now have a noisy bearing, either Power Steering pump, or idler pully... I wonder how expensive the PS pump is? and is it hard to pull that Pumps Pulley with a puller tool? It's actually been making noise for years, but now it's making it all the time, not just on acceleration... gets less when RPM's Fall, but you can still hear it... I flushed the tank, and put some Lucas Power Steering oil in there to see if that solves the noise... I don't know if the bearing is lubed from the fluid, or if it is separate, and the fluid is only part of the pump itself?

Thanks and hope you all have a Merry Christmas/New Years