New running boards
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 340
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From: Longwood, fl
New running boards
Purchased a set of new stamped steel same as original running boards recently at Turkey Rod Run in Daytona. Going on a 55 F100, the brackets are in place but was missing running boards when I bought the truck. Don't have an exploded view to show how they go together. Should there be welting between the running board and fenders? I also bought the bolt kit to install, in the kit there are two approx. half inch thick rubber washers. Again with no pic to see where this belongs either. Is there suppoesd to be a spacer between the running board and the front fender on the 55 as with earlier years? Last, they don't line up with either the brackets or the fenders worth a hoot but that is no suprise. Yea, they are marked from I believe 51 thru 55. They do bolt up but with quite a bit of coaxing. Thank in advance for your help....
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
Joe -
The welting usually doesn't go between the running board and anything else. The welting I have seen was only used between the fenders and the body panels. The board bolts directly to the rear fender.
The boards on my 56 didn't fit any better, and they were original. I had to coax the brackets forward or aft about half a hole to get the bolts in. I opened the holes in the brackets up to accomodate the hole positions in the boards. I use flat washers and nylok nuts underneath.
The welting usually doesn't go between the running board and anything else. The welting I have seen was only used between the fenders and the body panels. The board bolts directly to the rear fender.
The boards on my 56 didn't fit any better, and they were original. I had to coax the brackets forward or aft about half a hole to get the bolts in. I opened the holes in the brackets up to accomodate the hole positions in the boards. I use flat washers and nylok nuts underneath.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 825
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
I put a new set on my 55 during the resto. This is how mine were before taking the old ones off and how I did the new ones. The only welt is on the short area where the lower front part of the rear fender; about 6 - 8 inches, is against the board.. The boards bolt directly to the rear and front fenders with no welt. There is a long rubber flap that bonds to the door opening area to block off the space between the running boards and bottom of the cab door opening. It is about 4" wide x 24". There is a rubber washer at the front only.
Hope this helps.
If it doesn't, Ican send a pic of the area.
Fred
Hope this helps.
If it doesn't, Ican send a pic of the area.
Fred
Last edited by fking1; Dec 19, 2005 at 02:46 PM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
Likes: 1,053
From: NM
The trade-off with welting is that it will collect water/dirt/whatever there. If you do that, maybe a bead of clear RTV to seal it would be appropriate? Or use a piece of 1/16" neoprene instead of webbing?
I know it's been discussed here before, and I know I had my opinions, but I am about to buy new repro 'boards, and the guy at Sac Vintage has about got me conviniced to go with fiberglas boards. I had a set of their steel smoothie boards delivered and there were issues with the top surface (they were very nice except that the top surface was not flat due to welding distortion). He claims the 'glas is exceptionally strong and durable. The steel boards were also delivered with several dents that got laid off on me for various reasons. I have 'glas front and rear fenders on my truck. Anyone got any further comments on 'glas from these guys? They are made by Fairlane.
I know it's been discussed here before, and I know I had my opinions, but I am about to buy new repro 'boards, and the guy at Sac Vintage has about got me conviniced to go with fiberglas boards. I had a set of their steel smoothie boards delivered and there were issues with the top surface (they were very nice except that the top surface was not flat due to welding distortion). He claims the 'glas is exceptionally strong and durable. The steel boards were also delivered with several dents that got laid off on me for various reasons. I have 'glas front and rear fenders on my truck. Anyone got any further comments on 'glas from these guys? They are made by Fairlane.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 825
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
I bought my steel set new from Carpenter. They were straight and fit perfectly.
IMO, I wouldn't get the galss ones. It's your truck so it's just my opinion.
Cheers,
Fred
IMO, I wouldn't get the galss ones. It's your truck so it's just my opinion.
Cheers,
Fred
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Augusta, ME
I've had a set of Fairlane glass boards on my truck (and off and on etc) since 1992 and they're pretty decent. They came off a couple years ago as the truck was torn apart, and I filled in the holes with new fiberglass so everything could be redrilled when it went back together. I'd originally put carriage bolts on them and they spun and cracked and splintered the gel coat some. This time I'm using allen head bolts with rubber washers to hold to the brackets. I did have some issues on the outside edges where they touch the fender, they seemed to rub a little too much there and the gel coat cracked (not the glass though, just the black gel). This time around I ground a little off out there and fixed the cracks, and for paint coated them with duplicolor bed coating. They look rugged, it's a nice contrast from the gloss black truck, and the bed coat though thicker than paint is not too thick, and covers any blemishes. Finished off with step plates they are very nice.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
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From: NM
Thanks for the feedback Scott! I've ordered the Fairlane boards. I intend to use the D-I-Y urethane bedliner coating too, to protect the gelcoat more than anything. I'm thinking of using it at the fender-to-board joints to prevent the kind of chipping you describe? It's softer than paint. I assume you need to sand and paint the boards first (with regular body paint), as the urethane would seem likely to attack the gelcoat?
Any problems from doors opened into the edge of the boards? (Chipping)
Any problems from doors opened into the edge of the boards? (Chipping)
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
I'm planning on using fiberglass boards. There was a discussion on this a while back and the concensus was that they held up well. However, I have heard some unkind things about Fairlane products and will be getting mine from Bebops... 
Vern
Vern
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 587
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From: Augusta, ME
The stuff I used on mine was the duplicolor brand in a spray can from walmart or autozone. I know I've accidentally dinged them as they sat in my parts room waiting to be installed, and this stuff chipped a little. However, I sprayed a little into the cap, and dotted it on with a fuzzy q-tip, and you can't tell anything happened. I'm not sure if the urethane will affect the gel coat, you might at least want to get some kind of primer on first to put the bedcoat over just in case. Mine had a couple coats of paint on from years past that I scuffed up and sprayed over. The chipping I had on the outside corners at the fenders...the very outer corner on the front where it curls forward some, it's like it curled forward and the very end curled in slightly, so when bolted up it must have put too much pressure on that little point and caused it to crack the gel. This time around I just sanded them off to better fit the fenders and shouldn't have that problem anymore. They're almost a quarter inch thick so you have a little bit of sculpting room if you need it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,497
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From: Tucson AZ
I know that we have beat this horse before but I wanted to add that using a thin nylon washer between the fenders and board keeps the gaps consistent and helps to eliminate dirt collecting there. It's easy to squirt it out when washing the truck. Just my$.02