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I HAVE A VACCUM LEAK SOMEWHERE , I HAVE BEEN THROUGH ALMOST EVERY HOSE, CONNECTION, VACUUM TEE, ETC. I HAVE CHECKED TRANS MODULATOR. WHEN I CAP OFF THE VACUUM TEE AT MANIFOLD SO THAT NO EQUIPMENT IS RECEIVING A VACCUM, IT STILL HAS A LEAK SOMEWHERE. MAYBE INTAKE? I HAVE CHECKED WITH CARB CLEANER ALL OVER. NOTHING NOTICED.CAN A HEAD GASKET LEAK SLIGHTLY AS TO LOSE VACCUM?? IT DOES NOT RUN HOT BUT RUNS LEAN BECAUSE OF THE LEAK. I NEED POINTERS. SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS, IM NOT YELLING, MY KEYBOARD IS CRAPPED.
THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I know you have already diagnosed it as a vacuum leak, but obviously it's not or you would have found it. What's going on with your truck? Why do you think it's running lean? A vacuum leak will only mess it up at idle, won't have much effect running down the road unless it's a big leak, and if it was that big you would have found it already.
I had the same problem with my 71 ford 390ci. I couldnt find the vacuum leak anywhere until I started to remove everything in preperation to replace the engine. The leak was under the the plate that is in between the carb. and the manifold. The leak was under the plate, between it and the manifold at the rear, (carb. cleaner did not detect this). This find saved me ALOT of money!
Hope this helps a little.
An easy way to find a vacuum leak is with a portable propane torch. If you have access to one, what you do is turn on the truck, take the propane torch, NOT LIT, and run it around your intake manifold, carb gaskets, anywhere you might think you have a leak. If there is a leak, the engine will drop down in RPM and the outlet of the propane torch will freeze over. I found this works in most cases, it's pretty simple and easy.
Foz,
I'm not convinced of a vacuum leak. Does your idle modulate? That is, does it go up and down consistently? If a vehicle is running lean that does not automatically mean "vacuum leak." How old is your carb? Have you had it off recently? Did you try the "Tiaquana Tune up?" While your vehicle is running, pinch off the fuel line and pick up RPMs to a high idle. Run the vehicle out of fuel. Unpinch the fuel line and restart it. If dirt is caught in the carb this can sometimes clear it of crap in the bowls.
Yeah, it's a bit shade tree, but it's worked for me in the past. Another way is to take the carb off, hold it upside down, drain it, and throw it back on. It's a quick fix, sometimes.
Good Luck, Have Fun,
KingFisher
Don't know your vehicle type but if you have a V-8 with the aluminum EGR plate under the carb......They get eaten up internally by the hot exhaust gases. Causes bad idle and surging and doesn't show any external leak.
The best way I've found to diagnose a vac leak is to choke off the air at the carb by removing the air filter and placing your GLOVED hands ofer the venturies. You know you have no leaks of the RPMs decline smoothly until it dies. You have a leak if the RPMs jump just before the engine dies as the fule mixture gets right. KEEP YOUR FACE BACK, a backfire haircut looks like crap!
I've had trouble with aluminum 2bbl carb spacers on California '68 - '69 FE's not matching the manifold on the each of the 4 trucks I've owned. There was a thread about that a month or so ago where I posted a sketch of my spacer. This is a hard leak to find since you have to get carb cleaner Under the back (or sometimes) front of the spacer.
I've hsd some success using JB Weld to fill in the area that doesn't match up then grinding to match the rest of the spacer.
I think beartrack is right on the head, this is what happened to me, and no propane, carb. cleaner ect. could detect it. mine idled ok, the problem was when I was cruising about 30-35 mph, it would surge and drive me crazy!,
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