The Continuing Temperature gauge story...
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: B'more
The Continuing Temperature gauge story...
I changed out my temp sender ('93 2.3L), and the gauge worked for one day. I had some time today, hooked up an ohm meter to the temp sender, and started it up. Sure enough, the sender is working fine. Could watch the resistance drop while the motor warmed up, could even tell when the thermostat opened...
So I hooked the gauge lead back up to the sender, and nothing... So I grounded the lead and that pegged the temp gauge...
Well, I hooked it back up, and started tapping on the gauge... which promptly moved into the appropriate temp reading on the gauge...
Just seems to be a little 'sticky' at the low end of the scale... So, perhaps simply grounding the lead to test the gauge isn't something ya ought to rely on 100%...
Can I purchase any aftermarket temp gauge? Is there anything in particular I need to know about or look for in a gauge? And can I just use the stock sender to drive it?
So I hooked the gauge lead back up to the sender, and nothing... So I grounded the lead and that pegged the temp gauge...
Well, I hooked it back up, and started tapping on the gauge... which promptly moved into the appropriate temp reading on the gauge...
Just seems to be a little 'sticky' at the low end of the scale... So, perhaps simply grounding the lead to test the gauge isn't something ya ought to rely on 100%...
Can I purchase any aftermarket temp gauge? Is there anything in particular I need to know about or look for in a gauge? And can I just use the stock sender to drive it?
Last edited by agryphon; Dec 18, 2005 at 02:52 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Yeah. I put a set of gauges in my console including water temp. I don't know of any aftermarket gauges that won't use the stock sender. You just tap into the wire (it was purple/white on my '94) and run it to the gauge. I'd suggest putting it somewhere out of sight but easily accessable since it doesn't match the stock gauges. Autometer makes good gauges, little pricey though.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,417
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From: Durham, NC
Originally Posted by RangerPilot
Yeah. I put a set of gauges in my console including water temp. I don't know of any aftermarket gauges that won't use the stock sender. You just tap into the wire (it was purple/white on my '94) and run it to the gauge. I'd suggest putting it somewhere out of sight but easily accessable since it doesn't match the stock gauges. Autometer makes good gauges, little pricey though.
can throw the readings off in both gauges.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,208
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The problem with electrics is they will also reflect the condition of your electrical system. they will read high or low depending on battery condition and alternator output and electrical load I have seen my Fords swing a long way based on voltage fluctuations. I will stand on my previous post mechanical all the way.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,417
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From: Durham, NC
Originally Posted by wtroger
The problem with electrics is they will also reflect the condition of your electrical system. they will read high or low depending on battery condition and alternator output and electrical load I have seen my Fords swing a long way based on voltage fluctuations. I will stand on my previous post mechanical all the way.
minimizes the effect on gauges from battery voltage flucuations.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
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Ford does indeed run a voltage regulator for the gauges it is supposed to produce pulsating 5 volts. But still I have had both the electric and a mechanical running at the same time and the electric would swing all over the gauge the mechanical stand rock solid.
It is really kinda of a moot issue remeber Ford really doesn't want you to know what is going on in there engines. These are the folks that give us IDIOT OIL GAUGES Where 7 lbs of oil pressure will show on a gauge as mid range. Or 75 lbs of oil pressure will still show mid range.
It is really kinda of a moot issue remeber Ford really doesn't want you to know what is going on in there engines. These are the folks that give us IDIOT OIL GAUGES Where 7 lbs of oil pressure will show on a gauge as mid range. Or 75 lbs of oil pressure will still show mid range.
Last edited by wtroger; Dec 21, 2005 at 08:35 AM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
I have a hard time believing you for the most part wtroger. "Swinging" gauges is a farfetched possibility. Perhaps it's time you got a real battery that could hold your electrical system? I've had no problems from mine. Definetly no gauges swinging about. It would be much simpler for him to tap into the wires and run a gauge off than to attempt to run a mechanical gauge. The procedure I used was given to me by someone knowledgable not only in electrical but in Rangers as well and it was detailed and took a good bit of time. It's not just hacking into the wire and attaching it as the thought seems to be. Electrics are just a little more complicated than that.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
A bad instrument cluster voltage regulator can cause gauge fluctuations at least on older models. I had a '71 Econoline that the oil pressure and temp gauges constantly fluctuated between the high and low ends of "normal" due to a bad regulator. Fuel gauge would have done the same if it had had a working sender. New regulator fixed the problem. My current '83 F350 gauges do it too, but only about half the width of the needles.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
But he talks of just one, which doesn't make sense. If the gauge was going out perhaps but that is a farfetched possibility just as well.
Only gauge I've seen flickering was my dad's voltage gauge with the blinker on. Good God that blinker draws the voltage. Yellow-top and the Big-3 fixed that!
Only gauge I've seen flickering was my dad's voltage gauge with the blinker on. Good God that blinker draws the voltage. Yellow-top and the Big-3 fixed that!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 222
Likes: 4
From: Richmond, Va
An idea I've been playing with is to get the gauge clusters that have the fuel/temp & oil/volts guages in them, gut them, cut holes, and install aftermarket Autometer gauges in place of the stockers. I'm just wondering if they have to "tie in" with the tach/speedo cluster somehow to make them (or the truck computer/sensors) work, or if it's 3 seperate clusters? I also wonder if I could tap into the existing wiring from the stock sending units (except the oil pressure), or would I have to leave the existing harness, and run wires from the new sending units. Would leaving the dash harness unplugged, interfere with the truck computer?
Some gauge companies make "mini" gauges. I might be able to install them and a tranny temp gauge if they're small enough and it doesn't interfere with the other truck electronics.
Some gauge companies make "mini" gauges. I might be able to install them and a tranny temp gauge if they're small enough and it doesn't interfere with the other truck electronics.
Gone but not forgotten.
Joined: Jul 2001
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Originally Posted by RangerPilot
I have a hard time believing you for the most part wtroger. "Swinging" gauges is a farfetched possibility. Perhaps it's time you got a real battery that could hold your electrical system? I've had no problems from mine. Definetly no gauges swinging about. It would be much simpler for him to tap into the wires and run a gauge off than to attempt to run a mechanical gauge. The procedure I used was given to me by someone knowledgable not only in electrical but in Rangers as well and it was detailed and took a good bit of time. It's not just hacking into the wire and attaching it as the thought seems to be. Electrics are just a little more complicated than that.
Dono
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Haven't had any problems to speak of with mine. Install took a bit but worked just fine. No change in stock gauge, aftermarket is reading perfectly. With real oil sender finally both of the oil pressure gauges are reading good too.
As for the mini-gauges, I think Autometer makes them, I know SunPro does. They are 1 1/2" I believe? Could probably fit them all in. I would say use a gauge cluster with all the stock gauges including tach and replace all with matching gauges. Would look good in the end.
As for the mini-gauges, I think Autometer makes them, I know SunPro does. They are 1 1/2" I believe? Could probably fit them all in. I would say use a gauge cluster with all the stock gauges including tach and replace all with matching gauges. Would look good in the end.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,208
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Believe what you want rangepilot I have more years expierence working on these Fords than I care to count. And I will never buy or install an electric oil or temp gauge. There are just to many variables introduced by electical gauges IE: bad batteries, flakey alternators poor connections bad grounds etc etc. So why not just eliminate those and go with a pure mechanical connection(s). Agryphon is looking for a solution not argument about gauge types. You can test the gauge in the dash, on the connector that goes on the sender that is in the block hook up a ten ohm resistor and ground the other end turn on the ignition the gauge should go to H (hot) next hook up a 75 ohm resistor and ground the other end it should read C (cold) If it reads as it should replace the sender. If it doesn't read right check the wiring or replace the gauge. And that is straight out of the Ford shop manual.