I dont know anything about flathaed engines but can you take of the valve covers and start it up and visually look at whats going on ? Seems alot easier then trying to guess on whats going on inside your engine? But like I said I know nothing about flathead engines. Just my .02 cents.

Mason

 

Mason, the reason they are called flatheads is because the valves are in the block, and the head flat, with no moving parts. The combustion chamber is keyhole shape with the valves beside the cylinder. There is no valve covers like you are used to seeing.

 

Thanks ***** ..... So I guess when knocks and noises in a flathead occurr? Can mean a total break down of the engine to correct it?

 

I am rusty on the Flathead V8's, but I don't think the valves are adjustable. They use a solid lifter. The clearance is set by grinding down the end of the valve stem. If I am wrong someone will correct us, but that is the way I remember them. I remember hand lapping in the valves when I was a kid, and dad using emery paper to set the clearance. That was a lot of years ago.

The valve spring and lifter is in the engine valley, you removed the intake to get at them. As I remember you could do a valve job with the engine in the car.

 

Since the engine sat so long and hasn't been run much lately I wonder if a valve stem isn't hanging up then slapping down onto the seat?

 

After looking at the picture I was wondering the same thing - do you know how big the groove the holder slides in is compared to the holder clip? From what was said before it sounds like 20 thousands is enough to cause such a knock.

If not that, could it be a rusty part of the valve stem hitting the guide? Maybe rusty from sitting open so long?

 

The stock Flathead valve lifters were not adjustable. Valve lash was set by grinding. Adjustable lifters were available as an aftermarket part so if the engine has been rebuilt it could have adjustable lifters.

 

I've picked up bits and pieces of knowledge about flathead valve work from this forum, but does anybody know where there's a comprehensive article (with pictures, if possible) on how to do a flathead valve job and associated maintenance tasks?

Thanks....

 

http://www.flatheadv8.org/rumblest/engine.pdf

http://www.reds-headers.com/html/engine_talk.htm

Here are a couple of links to some good information on flathead valve work and flatheads in general. Also if you can get your hands on a shop manual that will help you.

 

I would pull the intake, critters, both human and animal, have been known to leave lots of critter litter in the top gallery. Could be something floating around in there.

 

The slot for the guide keeper is just big enough to allow the keeper to slip in place. The wider groove in the picture is where the O ring goes for oil control.

Also you access the valve chest by removing the intake manifold and carb. It's impossible to run a flatty while working on the valve stem/lifter assembly.

 

Of course, another real obvious option is to drive it (carefully) to someone you know and trust who has enough experience in diagnosis to give an informed opinion before you do anything. It isn't worth hoping for a flatty-knowledgeable local guy, is it?

It must not be anything fatal, those kinds of noises don't last long Your observations are very careful and explicit, now that I read back thru them. It's gotta be a sticking lifter or valve. MTFlat was right, pull the intake manifold, and squirt MMO or an oily solvent onto all the valve stems thru the intake ports, and the 4 center exhausts thru the crossover ports. then soak the lifters with same. While it's soaking check your valve clearances. That is how I spotted my sticky lifters. The stuck or sticky ones show to have tight clearances -- like .002". It'ws because once the valve spring is extended fully, there's nothing to push the lifter down any further except gravity. A little varnish will really make it tough sliding.

The only thing I found to immediately remove varnish ( alot of mine was fuel varnish from the PO pouring gas down the carb) was lacquer thinner or fuel injector cleaner. To clean the lifters completely I had to pull the heads. If you are more patient than me, you can crank the engine til each lifter is up, spray it with cleaner really good, then follow with lots of MMO. Crank it over a bunch and then re-check valve clearances. I'd use Chevron Delo 400 oil in the crankcase, it is very high detergent and has good amounts of moly and phosphorous. Then run the engine a bunch (you know you want to!)

 

Thanks for the great info, Albuq F-1. It all makes sense. It's a new project for me so I'm looking forward to learning some new stuff and asking lots more questions.

Time to get to work.

 

Good point. Probably a long shot, but: Anybody know of any flathead experts in the Healdsburg/Santa Rosa/Guerneville area of Northern California?

 

Do change the oil before running it if you use solvent. I'm sure A F1 meant that just wanted to be sure you understood.