Computer problem i think
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Computer problem i think
how would i check if im getting power to my ECU. OR how would i tell if its bad. im getting to power to my fuel pump or injectors or anything i have a 91 ranger with a 2.3L in itiv posted before on the Ranger truck fourms heres what i wrote there
1991 2.3L Ranger 2wd-----okay im totally confused im not getting any power down to my fuel pump the wirings good i check the relay it good i ran a jumper wire within the relay connection and i get the pump to run the pressures only 22psi i got a new pump and put it in now i got 40psi but still all the engine will do is crank crank and crank . iv put a new fuel filter on so thats not the problem and iv got spark. the first thing i checked was the interia switch and its fine.
1991 2.3L Ranger 2wd-----okay im totally confused im not getting any power down to my fuel pump the wirings good i check the relay it good i ran a jumper wire within the relay connection and i get the pump to run the pressures only 22psi i got a new pump and put it in now i got 40psi but still all the engine will do is crank crank and crank . iv put a new fuel filter on so thats not the problem and iv got spark. the first thing i checked was the interia switch and its fine.
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Originally Posted by subford
Here is a diagram of your system, if you have a test light maybe we can put something together.
ok i ran some checks. first i ran i voltage check on the PCM
KOEO-----Pin#------volts
-----------8--------0 volts
---------- 37------- 12 volts
---------- 57------- 0 volts
these are the pins on the pcm connection
next i ran a conitity check. from pins 37 and 57 to the fuel pump relay and also pcm relay the conitity was good but also if i ran the wire from pins 37 or 57 to a ground it also had conituity. would this mean a break in the wire. and also how would i check the computer to see if it was good and is there anything else i could do.thank you for the wiring diagram.
Last edited by mike_23us; Dec 11, 2005 at 04:25 PM.
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From: Easton,Ks
I do not know how you can have 12 volts on 37 and 0 volts on 57. Not sure where the splice is in the Red wires but then you say you have continuity to ground on both. This doesn’t add up, if 37 has continuity to ground it would and should blow fuse #8.
What are you using to check voltage and continuity with?
What are you using to check voltage and continuity with?
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From: Virginia
57 should have 12 volts on it.
You may get some strange readings if you try to read 37 and 57 to ground. You need to make sure when you are taking continuity readings, that the meter is on the rx1 scale, and you only need to be concerned if you get a zero reading. In other words, put the meter leads together on the rx1 scale and see what reading you get. Then measure continuity to ground on this same scale. If you get any reading slightly higher than you got with the meter leads touching each other, then you are probably ok. These two leads you are reading have lots of coils and stuff on them, so you will get a reading to ground, although I don't know how low it will be.
Here's a full diagram of your trucks engine wiring.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800ba9ca.gif
You may get some strange readings if you try to read 37 and 57 to ground. You need to make sure when you are taking continuity readings, that the meter is on the rx1 scale, and you only need to be concerned if you get a zero reading. In other words, put the meter leads together on the rx1 scale and see what reading you get. Then measure continuity to ground on this same scale. If you get any reading slightly higher than you got with the meter leads touching each other, then you are probably ok. These two leads you are reading have lots of coils and stuff on them, so you will get a reading to ground, although I don't know how low it will be.
Here's a full diagram of your trucks engine wiring.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800ba9ca.gif
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couple of things to remember, when you turn the key on the FP relay will only be live for about a second, then it goes dead, and it wont come back on until the computer senses engine rpm, so with out cranking the engine it wont be hot. So #8 will be dead if it isn't cranking.
If you get voltage at #8 for a second when you first turn on the key, but you don't while it's cranking then teh computer probably isn't getting a signal from the crank sensor/cam sensor.
If you get voltage at #8 for a second when you first turn on the key, but you don't while it's cranking then teh computer probably isn't getting a signal from the crank sensor/cam sensor.
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Originally Posted by subford
I do not know how you can have 12 volts on 37 and 0 volts on 57. Not sure where the splice is in the Red wires but then you say you have continuity to ground on both. This doesn’t add up, if 37 has continuity to ground it would and should blow fuse #8.
What are you using to check voltage and continuity with?
What are you using to check voltage and continuity with?
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by mike_23us
Hey your right it does blow fuse number 8 but whats the culprit. so your from Easton, ks. i live 40ml SE of Hays, ks
I do not live in Easton, that is the Post Office I get my Mail through. I live in western Leavenworth Co. just North of where Danni Boatwrigh from Survivor Lives.
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by mike_23us
ok the only fuse lying around was a 60a so i used that. with the pcm unplugged it didnt blow it but with it plugged in the fuse would blow either it just got really got and it still didnt start
You could still have another problem like a shorted Converter Clutch Solenoid or other shorted relays or solenoids but with 60 Amps running through the grounding devices in the PCM if not bad before they probably are now.
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