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My ignition lock is completely worn out after 13 years and 200000 miles. You can turn it pretty much any direction without the key being inserted.
I haven't pulled it apart yet, looking at the CHilton manual, disassembly should be no big deal.
Looking at the parts catalog, I see the Ignition Switch, which is fairly cheap, and is prob the actual electrical switch. No brainer, I'm gonna replace that.
I am assuming that the lock cyl is prob worn out - The catalog lists 5 locks, Code A through E.
How do I know which to use? I don't care if I have one key or two - it's not much of an imposition either way. Do these come with a key, or do I need to see a locksmith?
I'm completely clueless on this topic - can anyone edumacate me a little?
I took care of this problem on my old 94 by buying the ignition lock from the dealer. The new ignition lock will have a key that is partially completed. By providing the dealer or any locksmith with your current key as well as the new keys that comes with the ignition lock, he will be able to complete the cut on the keys. You will now have a new master key + one more; you can discard the old ones.
*Sounds like your problem is with the ignition lock and not the switch itself. I'm assuming that the portion of the ignition lock that you rotate with your fingers rotates freely and that you are actually turning the key itself to start it. BTW, a buddy of mine had this problem; he ignored it for too long and finally was unable to start it.
I believe the a-e refers to the blank stamp that the key is. If you have the old chrome style ignition lock, you can buy those at pep boys for like $10. If you get the same stamp as your current key, you can go to the local locksmith with the cylinder and he can make you old key work in it, so it will match, for like $20 +/- depending on the place.
Just as a follow up, I was able to get the chrome style lock cylinder from PepBoys today, but it was more like $40. I took it to a local locksmith, and they rekeyed it to match my existing keys, and slapped it in for me as well.
I never did think to see what the key blank was, it wasn't marked on the package. After they rekeyed it, the blanks that came with the lock weren't usable, so apparently it was the wrong blank...
I think having the right blank would have been less work for the locksmith, but it didn't seem to matter in the end, as it's working now!
Glad to see you got it fixed agryphon. I would like to give everyone a word of advice while on this subject. To prevent this problem, do not overload that key chain. Too many keys and trinkets hanging from the ignition key is a sure way to wear out an ignition. The weight is bad for them. The hard part is telling the wife she has to take all the little prettys off her keychain, women put lots of stuff on their keychains so that they can find them at the bottom of their purse.
I have a 2002 with the transponder key. My keys for the truck consist of the main transponder key that does everything, and the key fob for my alarm. I also have a 78' silverado thats keys consist of the ignition key which works the doors as well, the bed lid key and the key fob for the alarm. I have another keychain with all my other keys that has a clip on in so i can clip the keys together in my pocket or whever i set them down. I like that set up so that i just grab the keys for the truck i drive and all my other keys are still with me.