Ok, I got a 92 explorer 4x4, it has the touch buttons to engage 4x4. Has no locking hubs or shifter, just the touch buttons. Its old but in good shape, it worked a yr or so ago. 4x4 light doesnt come on and doesnt engage. Any suggestions? Thanks all.

 

Likely culprit it the shift motor assembly needs some TLC. Check it out here. http://draco.acs.uci.edu/explorer/

But first try the rest button on the controler located in the drivers rear qtr panel. Remove the jack access panel and you'll see it up front. It's black with a white button on the bottom. With car running, hit th reset. I got a few more enagements doing this before I had to rebuild the motor.

When you rebuild the motor, don't cut the brown wire. Disassmble the connector and the pin slides out the back. You'll see what I mean when you get there.

 

Thanks for reply. I will try it!

 

I have the exact problem with my 95 Explorer XLT. My 4x4 is an electonic rotary selector, however the results are the same. No 4x4, and blinking "4wd" and "4wd low" lights for a couple of seconds.

I've looked for the reset on the driver side quarter panel. The Rear windshield washer tank and two electronic boxes are in there, but no reset button. Does the 95 have the reset button? My Chilton manual is no help here.

My next step is to rebuild the transfer case motor selector. But I don't want to do that in this weather if I could just reset a button. Help!

 

I fixed my sisters 94 using the info from the above link. My 92 is exactly the same, but no problems with it yet. Sorry I can't speak for the 95's since, as you say, it has a rotary selector instead of the push buttons. However, the shift motor itself looks the same on a neighbors 99 (after a brief peek) as my 92. The motor (and attached gearbox) seem to have the most problems with this system, and if so, you may want to go through the steps in the above link as well. The remark about the brown wire is a good one. There's no need to cut it when you can just disassemble the connector. I would read the entire article on the transfer case repair a couple of times before beginning. I would also suggest taking a picture with a digital camera of the wire harness routing (with the vibration dampener removed) before beginning. I was fortunate to have my 92 to refer to when putting the 94 back together...not that it's very complicated, it just made things a little easier.

Mac if you want to send me a private message with your e-mail, I can send you a little attachment of something I wrote that describes what I did to repair the T-case motor. It's pretty much the same info as the above link, but I wanted to consolidate into one article the info contained in the several articles found in the above link. One thing I don't have is pictures, but the link above does. Hopefully, this won't add to the confusion

 

Hey thanks for reply. I tried to send you my email but it seems it wont let me because I dont have 25 posts yet. I tried the reset with no luck.

 

That's funny. Post a bunch of crap then. This site gives you different ratings pending your # of posts. I'm a guru now - wooo hooo! I think I get to be a supper guru at 2,000 post. That's what I inspire to be

 

I thought someone had web-hosted my little article. After searching my old postings, (I'm glad I don't have as many as Jharger ) I was able to find it. Here is the link...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph..._motor_fix.htm

click down 3 or 4 pages and you'll see a little header saying "Notes from SJWoody". There's a link there to view it in .DOC format which you should be able to read easier and also print.

Hope this helps....

 

This is the same stuff from off the draco web site. Some guy at UC Santa Barbara or Irvine, can't remember which, is using the school's server to keep it alive. Thank god for that.

 

Thanks guys, this is great stuff.