92 F150, 351W, AT, stock cooling system.

I just read this thread and have some answers but not all - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=437368


OK, it has been really cold here, (11 below for a couople of days). As long as it has been this cold my truck has over heated (temp was 260+). Even if it is 20 above zero the truck is OK so I have to think this only has to do with the cold.

I think I don't have the right ratio of water to coolant in my system and I think this is what caused my thermosat to not open when it should. So I want to make sure I have the right ratio of coolant to water.

I want to know if I can or should replace my thermostat with one that will work a little better, I am not sure if there is a type that is better than another.

Also, is the only difference between the orange and green collants the color? Or does one do something the other doesn't.

Does anyone know what the capacity of my cooling system is? Or where I can find that?

Any suggestions on a thermostat as to when it should open? I think I have a 190 degree thermostat installed now. That seems to do OK, hasn't given me problems in the past, the truck runs at 220 according to my digital guage.

I am also going to replace my lower radiator hose heater, so if there are any suggestions please send.

Lastly, I have always used 10-40 weight oil...should I change this to something like 5-30?

Thanks for any help.

Joe

 

Pretty sure the truck calls for a 192 stat.,so 190-195 will work.Anti-freeze comes in different colors because they are different.Red/Orange is Dex-cool no phosphates/silicates (Gm,Asian cars).Yellow has phosphates (most European cars and the newer Fords) both are also "long life" coolants.Green is okay for your truck,50/50 ratio is a good rule of thumb.(some exotics call for a different mix).

 

You might want to get a balanced thermostat. They alleiviate some of the 'opening' issues the normal types have. It will cost about $12 instead of $3 though.

You might consider a new radiator cap if your seal doesn't look to be in good shape. The overflow bottle should be in good shape too, you don't want the radiator to suck in air when it cools off.

Your truck should take green only, its not designed for Dex and Dex would not protect your engine properly. I wouldn't bother with the pre-mixed stuff.

I run about 60/40. Simply because after a flush I can pour in 2 gallons (8qt) in a 13qt system to top her off. Max mix is 70/30

Cheers,
Tim

 

My friend just did the same thing to his explorer, the coolant was only good to -12 Celcius (below freezing) and the temp was -27 C (really below freezing) . His engine overheated and then when his t-stat finally opened and allowed 250+ degree coolant into the rad, the rad bent like a banana and the tanks nearly came right off. Needless to say, he needs a new rad. BOTTOM LINE, for 5 bucks he could have gotten an antifreeze/coolant tester at any parts store and saved himself $400.00.
make sure you circulate your coolant well after topping off before testing it.
007BRONCO

 

OK, I got everything apart ok...had to put the old water pump in the oven to warm it up a little so I could remove the pulley


I am wondering if I can replace the fan, what is the big weight in the middle for?



Also, why are the fins off-set like that?

Joe

 

I think the switch is a bi-mettalic strip that changes shape when hot to engage the fan. As to why Ford made an off balance-looking fan is beyond my knowledge! and I'd really like to know as well. (Yes, this is a normal looking Ford fan)
007BRONCO

 

LOL
If that fan had some tape around it, marking it off like the cops do a body, that pic would be hilarious! Is that a happy face I see on the "head" blade?

 

Does anyone have a picture of the water pump on this truck with the bolts in? I completely spaced it and only remember where a couple go.

 

OK, I am not really that stupid. Although, after a dry fitting I realized that most of the holes have a good amount of gunk in them (probably from the quite large amounf of LockTite the last mechanic put on there). Hence the reason for the dry run - to find problems before, not after. Goes along with what my brother does the opposite of: Work Smarter, not Harder.

So what is the best way to clean bolt holes?

Joe

 

you buy a tap set and ream out the holes.

 

The fan blades are offset the way they are to reduce fan noise (roar).

 

Although that is a viable solution, and one that was told to me by two other peple, I didn't want to take the chance on messing it up. There is a line I don't want to cross, I don't want to be fixing my truck because I am always fixing my truck...if you get my drift.

I just took a straw on the end of a throddle cleaner can and it got out what was in there.

Joe.

 

After all these years I realize my fan is on a clutch, but barely. I am barely able to rotate the fan independent of my clutch, is this normal or should it be looser?

Joe