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Sand blaster information

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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 08:49 PM
  #1  
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docholiday72tx
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From: waco
Sand blaster information

I have a 55 f100 that I recently pulled out of the woods where it had set for over 30 years. I haven't found any cancer with the exception of the leading edge of the hood. My floor boards are even pretty solid. How ever the truck is covered in minor surface rust. My grand pa and I are going to fix the old truck up. We both have air compressors and our plan is to hook them both up to a sand blaster to make sure we have plenty of air. We will probably only use the blaster for this one truck so we don't want to spend a ton of money. We will end up needing it for the whole truck so we will end up spending what we have to. Can any one recomend a good blaster for our purpose?
Doc
 
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 08:55 PM
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The siphon blasters are a pretty cheap way to go but they do need volume so plan on using all the compressor you have. Consider using coal slag as a media. I've found that it cuts very well and isn't nearly as dusty as sand. Its pretty cheap too. It doesn't seem to plug up repirator filters as much either. I get my coal slag from the same place where they sell blasting sand. Overall, the job just sucks so suit up and get it over with. Good luck.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 10:00 PM
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doc -

When you get to patching the hood lead edge, check out my gallery album "Hood Patch Panels" (link below). I had to do more than just patch it as I also had to reposition the hood reveal. The first six pictures are the most helpful. I understand that a patch panel is also available for that area, although I don't remember from where.

Good luck.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=13066
 

Last edited by Randy Jack; Dec 6, 2005 at 10:12 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 06:34 AM
  #4  
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Sandblasters use LOTS OF AIR! The minimum (you will have to stop and wait some) is 20+ cfm at 100 psi. You can go really small on the nozzle but then you will be clearing plugs in the nozzle. I agree that black beauty (coal slag) is a good choice. Keep your distance on sheet metal and use the finest (smallest) grade. Keep the stream moving, don't stay in one spot and really stay back when doing flat panels. I have always done my own sandblasting and have not warped a panel. I use a Lindsey (now under a different name) whick I bought at a swap meet to replace a TIP 100. The Lindseys have a unique mixing valve at the bottom of the tank that does not plug.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 06:59 AM
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Harbor Freight sells a 40# pressure media blaster that is pretty popular in the DIY community. It does require considerable air, as all blasters do. I use the smallest ceramic tip available for the unit and sift the sand through a screen mesh before loading it into the tank. I believe it sells for around $80, also be sure to invest in a good cartridge dust mask and a hood, you’ll be glad you did.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 08:30 AM
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From: waco
Thanks a bunch guys for all the information. Randy, that was a great job on your hood. You pictures are a big help. My hood looks similar to yours minus the bondo.
Mike
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 11:44 AM
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dffay
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Holding the stream at an angle helps the media "knife" its way in and it doesn't slam the blast directly at the metal from 90 degrees. The combination of friction heat and pressure from the blast is what warps. Keeping the angle oblique will be your best bet on the metal that really matters.
 
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