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I'm thinking to rebuild my 1966 352 motor as I have no real idea of the actual miles etc.,.(recent purchase) only know it's power is not up to par and it needs other things that would be easier on my back and pocket if I get it all done in one shot.
I don't have the tools or space to do it myself at this time/ so
I was wondering if anyone can suggest a "reputable/fair" mechanic near Orange County, CA
I really don't want to buy a remanufactured motor as this is the original and it runs ok now, just want to resolve any future hassles before they get real costly.
Well I dont think it would be cost effective to have someone do the wrenching on a rebuild.. I use to have a shop years ago in redondo beach.. And still know a few of the engine builder's in the area..but there all hi performance, and are not cheap..
I think what I would do in your situation, Is if you know someone outthere in Orange thats in a business that can get you a re-manufactured engine from a number a reputable builders and have a Mechanic do the install...and step up to a 68 390 car engine.. there about 300hp or so..and you can buy one re-man for about $1300 or so! JMO!!
you are better off using yours as a core and buying a new rebuilt 390. i can suggest one place that i use a lot. that is www.rebuilt-auto-car-engines.com. it is not cost effective to have someone else rebuild it. besides who wants a rebuilt engine????? i would opt for a remanufactured one.
I take it from the post on the 66 series forum as well you have purchased a motor from these guys before. ? I was wondereing what the shipping etc. ran you,, where are they located I couldn't get that from the website as I recall..
Well I took her by a tune up shop off Harbor Ave and Bay St that seems to always have Classics in the bays and explained the fellow who hosted the counter my scenario of events with her. He suggested since I'll likely have to remove the oil pan, valve covers, oil pump, pickup, (as they would likely go to use on a new motor anyhow)- why not go ahead and remove the oil pan and have a look... maybe replace the pickup and oil pump/ so the worst would be a few gaskets being repurchased for pan, valve covers, etc..should the new motor be the only option/ it would give me a chance to have one last look at the motor before digging in deep.
It doesn't smoke so the valve guides idea is questionable, muddy pickup?maybe but the oil is very clean, I guess the only thing to do is take his advice on this. Seems to be resonable..
yes buy all means pull the pan. but the knock you describe sounds more like a wrist pin letting go. been there done that. it will not go at once but a very slow death.
The results are in the gallery, not pretty. However she sounds tons better now I think if I pull the passenger exhaust maniflod and do that gasket I might be good to go until the timing chain takes a dump LOL..
Is there a walk in place to get the Petronix pointless setup for my distributor..I think I know what I want for Christmas..
petronix in my opinion is a waste. i went thru 3 of them in 3 months. i went with the new crane cams XR-I setup. it is a sealed unit no shuuter wheel used and it has a built in adjusable rev limiter. i bought one form summit for 73.00. also the timing chain and fuel pump are so cheap i would have repalced them while i was in there. fuel pump 19.00, timing chain 25.00 try www.summitracing.com or www.kragen.com
I still have to do the left exhaust and I'll jerk the motor to do that mess. It was way esier than trying to deal with the snapped bolts with it in. Took me 20 min to drill and tap the 3 that went south.
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