The only way to identify an FE block is by measuring the bore and stroke correct? the casting #s on the FE blocks are all the same?

Stupid question I know but want to make sure.

Thanks,

 

The only stupid question is the one you dont ask.

FE blocks do have casting numbers (like D3TE or C6ME-A, and so on) but often times the same casting was used on a multitude of motors, so it's kind of a crapshoot as to wether the number will tell you anything or not. It's best to take the motor apart, measure the stroke, and bore. Then, look at the block for the mirror 105 where the "352" normally goes, look for the extra main webbing, and / or extra block ribbing. There's more things to look for on the higher performance motors, too much to type here.

 

Do a search for the "drill bit test" also. It's a cheap and fast way to check what cyl wallcores were used short of a sonic mapping.

G.

 

Page I of I

Fairlane Engine

So, you have decided to build a FE Engine. Good, because it is the
best V?8 to come out of Detroit ever. We will cover FE's from mild to wild
and miles to smiles per gallon.

Let's talk blocks. For a hot street engine all FE blocks are suitable, However, the non?high performance blocks need a little work.

The first thing is to select a core suitable for the application. For a performance type street engine any of the stock blocks will do. But, for a high
compression race engine you should use a known high performance block or start out with a heavy?duty truck block because they are made from higher strength
cast iron.

For a 4" bore
Circle Track
engine use a 330 heavy?dut
y block,
It has a 3.718 bore and some have cross bolt bosses already cast into the bottom end. If you plan to cross bolt the block, make sure it has the heavy?duty
main webs,

For a 4.050 bore
390
or
410
street engine, a
352
block is very good as it has a 4.0 bore to start with and can be finished at standard
390
bore size of 4.050. Later, it can be bored another .30. For a 10?1 street an
y block
will do but for a high compression or
nitrous
blower use a truck block with heavy?duty main webs. Note, Heavy?duty truck blocks have a large pilot hole to support the end of the distributor. It must
be fitted with a bushing to use a car distributor. Don't forget to drill the oil hole in the bushing or the distributor will seize up in the bore from
lack of oil.

For a 4?130 bore, it is best to use a
406
or
428
block. Here again, for a street with 10? 1 CR just about an
y block
will do, but for a high power race motor you must check the block for cylinder wall thickness. Note, A quick way to check for a candidate for a 4.130 bore
block is to remove a care plug from the side of the block and use an alien wrench as a
gauge
to check the distance between the bores. Use the following chart reference.

If an allen wrench fits between the bore._.

SIZE WRENCH SIZE RESULTS

375 3/8" No Good
312 5/16' No Good
281 9/32" 4.080 Max
218 7/32" 4.160 Max
187 3/16" 4.18 Max (in a
406
or 428, good block)
187 3/16?(427) 4..293 (68 C8AZ?6010?G)
125 1/8?(427) 4.310 (Marine Block & some early 427's)

7

http://www.doveperfonnanceparts.com...O7jpg 8/19/2003
HTH

 

I've never heard this before.

 

The reverse "105" blocks are 73 and later blocks cast at MCC (Michigan Casting Center) They have the HD crank webbing and some nice thick cyl walls. The "105 identifier replaced the "352" found on the 58-72 FE and FT blocks. Due to the newer thin wall casting process at MCC coreshift was minimal and thought better than previous casting technolgy used through the years.

G.